Nelly

The Breach Wall: Kilimanjaro & the Conquest of Self by Rob Taylor. It's Touching the Void 15 years before Joe Simpson even though of climbing! A great read, better than "Void" For some reason Rob Taylor doesn't disclose his partners name - respect, curtesy, who knows. However, speculation has it that Henry Barber was his partner on that epic.

I looked out my office window yesterday and saw blue skies and Mt. Hood engulfed in a cloud. Thanks for the post, I was wondering what it was like on the mountain. I'm heading up tonight to solo the Reid. Hopefully that cloud will stay away.

Access Creek from Big Beaver is an easy way to get close to Luna Cirque, Fury, etc. Also, don't over look Perry Creek access to S. Side of Spikard and ridge leading to over towards Redoubt.

I'm finally going to break down and purchase a beacon. I've narrowed it down to either the Ortovox M2, or the Tracker DTS. Anybody have any thoughts or comments regarding either beacon?

If peak fees are keeping you from climbing in Nepal............politics, however, are troublesome! Govt. waives peak fees Government has waived peak fees partially or wholly for expeditions climbing 60 Himalayan summits in Nepal for three years beginning March this year to attract foreign teams to the kingdom that boasts of the world's tallest peaks, including the 8848 metres high Mount Everest, a Tourism Ministry announcement said Wednesday. Spring heralds the beginning of the spring climbing season in Nepal. The government, through a cabinet decision, has waived by 75 percent royalty to climb 40 peaks in Rasuwa, Kaski, Taplujung, Dolakha, Mustang, Gorkha, Humla, Solokhumbu and Dolpa districts; the peaks were open for expeditions but had few takers, the Ministry said. Peaks include Dhaulagiri II, III, IV, V and VI ranging in height from 7751 to 7268 meters. Royalty has been completely waived to attempt 20 peaks in the far west region in Darchula and Bhajang districts. Peaks in the region include the 7132 meters high Api and the 7031 meters high Saipal. "The move should make Nepal more attractive to expeditions as mountaineering becomes increasingly competitive. "The initiative should also help develop the more backward regions of the country," the Tourism Ministry said. Darchula and Bhajang are in the Maoist affected backward regions of the country. Nepal has to compete with Tibet, India and Pakistan to attract expeditions to challenge peaks in the Himalayan and Karakoram range. nepalnews.com br Feb.6

Flew with Doug in 98' At that time the cost was $900 (CA) per hour, and you still pay if he has to abort due to weather. Andy is considerably cheaper. Cost into Logan was approximately $850 per prson, round trip, excluding tips etc.

The "best," just my way of saying Andy did an excellent job getting us in and out under difficult conditions. Yes, very sad thing that happened to Kurt. I imagine Gulf Air is still operational, but not sure.

1. Baruntse, South Ridge 2. Fred Beckey 3. Early Morning Spire, SW Face

Good luck - I climbed that route in spring of 99, awesome place, awesome route!! Do you intend to fly in from Kluane Lake or Yakutat? If you fly in from Kluane, Andy Wiliams (I assume he's still flying) is the best!!

Wow, someone else in Vancouver, send me a message and let's chat. No, that wasn't me in the health club. I've never joined a club as I prefer to get my exercise outdoors. I've thought about joining the new "Y" because they have some good programs for my daughter, and the rock wall looks pretty cool (except for the over-weight belayers yelling out beta, makes for a good laugh).

Ah, Alex, not sure if your Alaska comments are directed my way or not. I visited your web-site and I'm very impressed. I certainly can't compete with climbing skills and accomplishments. However, I am kind of proud of my accomplishments in the Alaska Range as well as the St. Elias Range and Himalaya. My experience spans over a couple of decades and, admittely, I'm not as fast or as motivated as years gone by. But to put it in term that Caveman might understand - I'm middle aged and I still get up shit!

Jimmy Katz has a number of incredible descents on tele-gear. I'm amazed his name doesn't pop up more often given his accomplishments, local and abroad.

Let us not forget the Mazamas and their antics......I could go on, and on, and on! Have the Mountaineers killed anyone on the S. South of Hood? Or do the Mazamas have an exclusive!

My current partner's desire for alpine climbing is fading fast as his interests are becoming more career oriented. Like Norman Clyde, I'm also looking for a compatable partner interested in alpine, trad, ice, etc. I am, however, 40 something and probably a bit slower than Norman Clyde and with less ambitious alpine goals. When in shape, I'm comfotable moving fast over semi technical terrain and I enjoy busting my balls on long routes. I have a fair number of Expeditions under my belt (Alaska, St. Elias Range, Nepal) and I'm quite familiar with the North Cascades. I am not a doctor (chemist), I am married and have a 6 year old daughter (which tempers my "go for it" attitude at times). I've blathered on long enough. If you're interested in scheduling an alpine route or two this summer in the N. Cascades, please let me know. Perhaps we can work something out.

Ah, I'm new to this site, been monitoring it for awhile though. Being from Portland I'd say you'd have to include the Mazamas in this discussion, not much different than the Mountaineers in attitude, travel in herds no less than the wild Wildebeast, and have newbies teaching newbies the ropes.

Yep, the upper 1/3 of the route is loose 3rd and 4th class. However, I didn't find it unacceptable by alpine standards. Stay as close to the ridge as possible. The 3rd class gullies to the SE that Fred refers to are sucker gullies. We simul climbed the whole route and made one rap on the descent, more of a convenience than necessity. Enjoy the N. Ridge, or whatever you climb - it's a spectacular place! We intend to climb the N. Ridge via the icefall later this summer. However, we'll camp in the col this time rather than starting from HWY 20....too much for me!

We climbed the East Ridge in a day from HWY 20. I suspect the North Ridge is doable in a day as well. Depends upon how fast and efficient you climb.

Last weekend while hiking into Mesahchie Peak, I couldn't take my eyes off of the North Ridge of Mt. Greybeard. Does anyone have any information to offer regarding this route?