Nelly

Fred indicates the rock quality is fairly good and the ascent to the ridge requires negotiating ice falls of "varying complexety." Anyone have any recent info or experience with this route?

Interesting comments. Bryan Burdo says, "the rock is generally very good." I guess one has to interpret what he means by "generally"

Sunday we're heading up to try the "Flycatcher" route (east buttress)on NEWS. Anyone have any beta or words of advice to offer.

While trying to get back in shape after back surgery, I found the hike to camp Muir a good day in the mountains. Good views, nice workout, a bit of elevation, etc.

Define Geezer, I might fall into that category - yikes!

The gulley Juan mentions is a good option, if it has snow in it. We pursued this option a few years ago when the gulley was free of snow - down right scary (only for a short section though!).

Mazamas will kill you - stay away, this is not a joke. I'll second Wayne112's feelings toward climbing clubs...........if you're looking to go that route.

Not unless it's a new rule. While climbing in the area in June of 99, we knew of at least one soloist on Logan at the time, and many parties of 2.

Juan - How did you access the Chopping Block from the Base of W. McMillan Spire, via the "Barrier?" If so, can you elaborate?

Went up Access Creek in 97', not sure if much has changed in the last 5 years. There was a nice log crossing on Big Beaver about 50 yards east of Access Creek - perfect location. The route up Access was straight forward and relatively free of brush, lots of open timber. I think Nelson recommends staying close to the creek and at times actually walking in the creek to avoid thick brush. We found if you stay high above the creek (west) you'll encounter very little brush. There is one small patch of slide alder we negotiated but, thankfully, it was fairly short. Once in the upper basin, the route is very apparent and goes quickly. Good Luck

TG - Very much so! Thanks for taking the time.

Lawgoddess - thanks, do you still need to surround the stove with an MSR type screen, or does the plate provide enough protection?

TG - can you elaborate on the design of your gigapower windscreen? I rarely use anything but the gigapower these days but have yet to find/make an effective wind screen.

I did a search on GOOGLE and found some nice pixs of Kate's Needle - very nice! Certainly gets the adrenaline flowing. Sorry, I wish I had some specific info regarding the route, but I'm now on the hunt as it looks like a sweet trip - thanks for the tip!

The Garmont Pinnacle and Mountain Lite GTX look like good canidates for an all around North Cascades climbing boot. Does anyone have any first hand experience with these boots? Good, bad, indifferent?

Man, those guys were strong! Were any of those ascents a first?

Jobe, nice climb! No need to appologize for climbing the W. Butt!! It's a big mountain, regardless of route. I venture to guess that most people who bash the route have never been there. Anyhow, I wish I began my Alaskan climbing at 18.............no telling where I'd be now. Keep up the effort and sometimes the learning curve is a bit tough - as you may have noticed.

I agree Stefan - in my opinion, the time spent waiting in basecamp is the most relaxing and best time of the whole trip. The stress of climbing is over, I can catch up on my reading, enjoy the mountains, enjoy the ambiance of basecamp, eat lots of food (previously stashed), the hustle and bustle of the city and home will arrive soon enough - enjoy the calm before the storm!

jobe - sorry, guy, but I'm going with Geeting on this one. Big deal, 8 hours!! He's right, try flying into the Kluane Icefields where there arn't any tourist flights helping to lower the cost of glacier landings - 700 - 900 dollars is the going rate! And the last time I flew into the Kluane icefields, it took 5 days to fly in and 8 days, yes jobe, 8 days to fly out, not 8 hours............when you go into the Alaska Range, you have to totally change your outlook on time and expectations. Doug is a good guy and has helped a LOT of climbers get out alive under tough conditions - cut him some slack!

How about: "Ascending fixed lines is like being the court food taster" (not verbatim, but close).

Too easy - Greg W got it right off!

"Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory" Hint - still alive

John Harlin

The guy who dissapeared near the south butress of McKinley, soloed a big route on Hunter, name escapes me.........

I think Cpt. Caveman IS Rush Limbaugh!