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Nelly

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Everything posted by Nelly

  1. Say LUNA, how posting your resume of awesome, butt puckering climbs. No doubt you're an alpine dude who kicks ass! I'm sure your little snickering post makes you feel powerful and supreme. So, butt head, put out and tell us all how freaking strong, brave and talented you must be.......
  2. Couloir, what was your elapsed time on the Timberline Trail? We did it last July with an elapsed time of 14 hours 40 minutes. We estimated 16 hours and hoped to complete the trail in 12 hours. I can't imagine doing the Wonderland Trail in a single push - too much for this old man! I hear the current record for the Wonderland Trail is 24 hours 1 minute.
  3. Oh, just assumed she wanted climb with and date someone of equal intellegence, climbing and skiing ability.......I guess she never did say what level of climbing she actually does.
  4. For me, a combination of endurance and strength training works. However, everyone adapts to altitude differently. I can not over emphasize the need for proper accimatization, especially since you do not have any prior experience to draw on. Once accimatized, you will probably find you have the same strengths and weaknesses at altitude as you do at lower elevations. The need for endurance is obvious; however, at altitude, heavy packs just kick my ass. Therefore, I spend a lot of time training with heavy loads. Above 15k every pound feels like 2 and about 20k every pound feels like 4 pounds. But heck, you might be one of those super-humans that perform exceptionally well at altitude. Me, I'm the essense of average and rely on training and desire to get me up the big peaks. Good luck - the Great Ranges of the world are incredible places!
  5. I have a pretty firm grasp of General Relativity, particle physics and string theory and I'm better than average on skis. However I hate boats and water sports, can't climb WI5+ or 5.12. Ahem, oh well, another potential climbing partner down the drain........
  6. A buddy of mine flew McCarthy Air for a Mt.Blackburn trip and said never again - Paul was picking up clients while they waited, and waited, and waited.......... I've heard of the guy out of Haines and he seems well positioned for the Peaks SE of Logan. Mount Stellar is SW of Logan on Paul had a straight shot at it - perfect!! Still, weather is everything! Good luck, I love those mountains and can't get enough of'em!!
  7. If you're heading into Logan Paul Claus is definately the preferred choice. He's closer than Yakutat and can tell what the weather is doing on Logan by simply looking out his window. His plane can take 6 - 8 climbers AND their equipment in a single flight. Andy, on the other hand, has to fly across the entire range before seeing the weather on Logan and his plane is limited to two climbers and gear. So when the weather window is short, Andy may or may not get everyone into base camp. And, with flyable weather being in short supply, that really limits his effectiveness. I flew with Andy into Mount Steele and he was great. We were a party of two and Steele is perfectly situated for him. However, last year for Mount Logan we choose to Fly with Paul and he did a great job. and, last Spring he got us into Mount Stellar during a brief weather window and plucked us out in another limited window. He is really motivated, talented and can relate to the needs of climbers being one himself.
  8. Hi David - Your attitude and appraoch toward winter outings sounds great. Are you new to the NW and climbing or is "casual" your standard approach toward climbing/skiing/et? Regardless, I'd be interested in teaming up for a trip this winter. Send PM if you want to discuss further - Cheers, Jim
  9. I suggest you pick a peak on the US side and fly with Paul Claus........far more reliable than Andy, has better equipment and there is no shortgage of peaks to select from.
  10. Just curious, if he wasn't so well known and heralded for his achievements, how would the antics of Joe Simpson be viewed by the participants of this site: cutting edge alpine, stupid, poor judgement, bad luck....... Again, just curious.
  11. I usually shoot for Wed/Thur night from 7 - 9 pm. However, I'm afraid my role as a parent prevents me from staying much later than 9 pm. I am NOT checked out to lead either. I just top rope when partners are available and the thought of bouldering bores me to death. I'm not a rock jock or a gym jock, just a guy trying to maintain a modicum of rock climbing skills - primary interest is alpine but I do enjoy long alpine rock routes when I'm in shape and can find partners.
  12. Hi - looking for a someone interested in climbing at the Portland Rock Gym one night a week. I'm of moderate talent......5.8 - 5.10, at best. Also, I'm an old geezer, over 40.
  13. Thanks for all the information. Indeed, we intend to go take a look and see what we can do.
  14. Lowell Can you provide some detail regarding your crossing the the N. Ridge @6800 ft. It jumps off the map as "doable" and I seem to recall a description indicating the gulley leading to 6800 is 3/4 class with some exposure. Also, once at 6800 feet on the N. Ridge, what's the transition like to the Katsuk Glacier? Also, can you elaborate on your definition of a "backpackable" route vs. a climing/scrambling route - thanks
  15. Just bringing this back to the top.........nobody has any info regarding the route from the Mesachaie Gl. to the Katsuk Gl.?? I believe the photos on the South wall of the Marblemount Ranger Station show most of the route. However, the photographs make the route look vertually impassable - which it surely isn't.......!
  16. Does anyone have any first hand info regarding the Ragged Ridge Traverse from Easy Pass to 4th of July Pass? Im particularly interested in info regarding the route leading from the Meshachie Gl to the Katsuk Gl. Also, what is the travel like from Red Mountain to 4th of July pass: Open slopes, timber, green hell, etc?? Also, there are references regarding an old "miners trail" from Fisher Creek up to Red Mountain. Does it still exist? How visible it it? I see it as a possible bail out spot should we decide to forgo the trudge to 4th of July Pass.
  17. Size medium, worn once, like new $250 Send me a PM if interested.
  18. ncascadesranger = Geordie?
  19. Can't speak of the quality of the E. Buttress Route on Washington, but I'm familiar with the SE Spur Route. The first 3-4 pitches follow a nice ridge on good rock. The remaining 5-6 pitches have a lot of ledges with tons of loose rock just waiting to fall off. The protection is generally pretty good but the climbing is pretty easy. As for "alpine rock routes" in Oregon, it rates pretty good, but tread lightly!!
  20. Winter Kill and River Song by Craig Lesley, local author teaches at PSU........... Anything by Carl Sagan. The man is a legend!
  21. Nelly

    info request

    Mid June probably isn't too late but you should keep an eye on the snow conditions throughout winter and next spring. Not sure which route you want to try, but the crowds on the W. Buttress might be considerably less in mid June. Check with the rangers in Talkeetna, they can provide good historical data. If mid June looks sketchy on Denali, consider a route on Mount Logan or something in the St. Elias Range, the season last virtually all summer long. However, as summer progresses, so too does the chance of bad weather.
  22. Consider heading into upper Park Creek Pass from the Buckner/Booker Col. I have NOT done the route but it looks reasonable - some glacier travel is necessary down the Buckner Glacier a short distance.
  23. Nelly

    Helmets

    How many climb with a helmet all of the time, some of the time, or none of the time?
  24. Have an upcoming climb scheduled for the Chopping Block and Terror. Anyone have any recent route information regarding the approach into Cresent Creek Basin from Goodell Creek? Thanks!
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