Ibex

quote: Originally posted by Beck: I don't own one...I think his harness system is kinda manky One more thing, Note that the majority of the folks who knock on McHale packs do it on the basis of looks. And worse yet... They have never personally used/tried one. I am not trying to rag on Beck, but think critically here folks. Think FUNCTION(!) not looks. I will admit that I was hugely skeptical of this guy's packs at first, but after some friends convinced me to take a trip to his shop, try his stuff on, and learn the "how and why", my opinion was forever changed. I will not go back to the masses. The good thing about having spent all that money on other packs is that I can sell them to finance my next mchale. Cheers [ 11-06-2002, 10:06 PM: Message edited by: Ibex ]

quote: Originally posted by Ade: I was looking at McHale's web site the other night... Insanely expensive!!! Do those that own them really think their worth the 2-3x price tag? ABSOLUTELY!!! The main differences are: -custom fit -better design -better materials -better construction -custom features/colors/etc Sitting next to the sexy contraptions from Arc'teryx, TNF, Osprey, Dana, etc they do have a "homemade" look to them. Rest assured that they are worth the money, and they can easily be made as light or lighter than more production packs. Fundamentally you have to start recognizing that what drives modern pack design is marketing and cost reduction NOT what is the most effective load carrying system. We are in a society that can send humans into space with relative ease. What it takes to build comfortable, effective suspension systems (including the ones people are calling funky looking) is clearly known. The problem is that all the top companies (listed above) keep chasing this moving target of "what might sell next year" and gain a bigger market share. Dan McHale (cantankerous fellow that he is) simply does not go down that path, ergo his stuff **looks** ancient. The truth is that it is the most effective system (bag design, suspension design, etc) on the planet and ever since he stumbled on it many years ago there hase been absolutely no reason to change. Expensive, yes. In comparison to all of the other packs I have owned: -2 Dana Designs -1 Arc'teryx -1 Gregory -2 Mountainsmith I wish I had just bought one of his to begin with. Cheers Shawn

quote: Originally posted by chucK: quote:Originally posted by btowle: I think that the first person to make a Snickers Bar with vitamins and minerals plus some other good unflavored additives will be the next billionaire. What do you think the Cliff Bar "Ice" series is? The Cliff "Mojo" bar blurs the line even more. I must say, the Cliff Mojo bars are fantastic. The best flavor is the Salsa Peanut, followed by Curry Cashew and Honey BBQ. If you are tired of the standard "fruit-nut-chocolate-but still tastes like ass" bar, give these a try. They are also a different texture, drier than power/cliff bars, but "coarser" than a granola bar. Good stuff

quote: Originally posted by allison: I've had excellent luck with my Casio as well. Had it probably six years, nothing but battery changes until this summer when the watch guy had to spend five minutes cleaning the alti sensor. Very accurate and reliable. I have to agree with this sentiment. Casio's They are accurate, durable, affordable, and arent huge or bulky. I have an older one (mine reads to 13,300) that has served me well. I would buy another one in an instant. Cheers Shawn PS Yet another alternative is a geographical shift. In florida for example, the tallest land mass is only 300 feet above sea level. Not many altimeters sold in this phecking paradise...

quote: Originally posted by Beck: has anybody tried replacing old sewn slings on tricams with flat/tube webbing? Also, on old wild country cams with the wire stem and forged thumb nob/sewn sling, will it take to 5.5 mil spectra, or should I just bring them in and get them all reslung? Beck, There was an extensive thread on Fish's website about these two topics. Go to http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/techweenie.html Click on webbing strength in the left column, and then read down about 1/2 way on the right. Shawn

quote: Originally posted by Colin: I think that this is probably a better option overall, because the stupid elastic things were always sliding down An easy way to solve that problem is with two 1/2 inch wide pieces of athletic tape. One at the top and one around the bottom. Thus you can inspect the screamer, and it doesnt flop all over. Cheers [ 10-25-2002, 08:44 AM: Message edited by: Ibex ]

[ 10-24-2002, 10:07 AM: Message edited by: Ibex ]

quote: Originally posted by ryland moore: I climb in the Wild Things Espresso. $50. Just like Alpine Bod, simple, durable, unpadded (not a prob. when mountaineering or ice climbing) and adjustable leg loops. Has 4 tough gear loops too. When I bought mine they were doing a deal with USHBA and I also received a free Big Wall Hauler. That was in the Fall of '98. I still love it though and it has been everywhere with me. The bummer is that Wild Things no longer makes harnesses or climbing softgoods (runners, etc). It was basically because of rising insurance costs, and low priced overseas competition (rock empire, etc). Their Espresso and Ice/Rock Raptor harnesses were pretty cool too. It is sad to see the number of options availible to us as consumers dwindle. Metolious used to make a harness about 8 yrs ago (cant remember the name) that was VERY similar to the custom made ones above. [ 10-24-2002, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: Ibex ]

And so I thought to myself.... Do you give them a fish, or teach them to fish...? In the upper right corner of your screen there is a "search" hotlink that will allow you to search the posts on this board. This topic has been debated to death. You asked a fair question, dont make the mistake in thinking that the answer is not already out there. Cheers Shawn

quote: Originally posted by pete a: For some reason I thought that the 555 was only compatible with AT boots, not climbing boots....maybe I'm wrong though. Seemed like for a long time the only climbing boot compatible AT bindings were the ones with the wire bail on the toe. Anyone know for certain? THat is correct. THe issue is with the height and shape of the heel if I remember correctly. It has to be within a very narrow (height) range to be able to lock in witht eh EZ-go's. Cheers

quote: Originally posted by Ned Flanders: Hey, I want to get rid of my telemark gear and get some randonnee. Does anybody have any opinions about bindings: fritschi diamir, dynafit, silveretta also on boots: scarpa lazer or others? thanks Josh Flanders, Do some searching, this topic has been debated quite a bit on this board. Basically, you need to decide if you are more of a skiier (1) or mtneer (2) 1) get a pair of Scarpa Lasers, and Fritchi's 2) Use plastic mtneering boots with Silveretta's You can guess which one skis better and which one hikes/climbs better. An alternative solution is to move to FL where you won't have to ponder such issues. Cheers Shawn

A friend of mine climbed it a few years back. From what I understand R.W. is right. I is just a ** L O N G ** slog. Something on the order of a 20mi walk just to get to the route. Nothing more than your avg ice axe and crampons route after that (if you go the yak route). It looks pretty cool from the photos I have seen. Cheers Shawn

Carolyn, "Home is the the Air Force sends you... " Is the important phrase here. Unfortunately I am 5hrs away from any bouldering, and 5.5hrs from any climbing. Plus without a firm grasp of the vernacular subtleties of "ya'll" I even have a hard time communicating with the natives. Life isnt horrible down here, but the recreational opportunities pale in comparison the the PNW. Cheers Shawn

I was recently forced to move to Florida, so some of my beloved mtneering stuff has got to go. Note all prices include ground shipping in the lower 48. -Koflach Viva Soft Plastic Mtneering Boots ($70)- Mens size 12 US. I have had them for about 3 years, but they have only had about one season worth of use. They have a little more flex than most plastics, so you can actually walk in them. An excellent glacier boot, and even does a respectable job at ice climbing. -OR X-Gaiters ($40) Sixe XL. I bought these when I was living in Iowa for ice climbing up in Canada, and managed to only use them once. They include both an open cell and closed cell liner, and fit mens boots size 11-13. Goretex uppers (red), Cordura bottoms (black). http://www.orgear.com/products/footwear/_product_shots/jpegs_m/x_gaiters_m.jpg -Powderline snow booties ($10) Blue, size XL fits size 11-13 feet. Cordura sole, closed cell and synthetic insulation. -Montrail Leona Divide Trail Runners ($35) SIze 12. I ran in them for a couple weeks before I determined that they are slightly too small for me. So, yes they have been used, but are far from used up. http://mirror.altrec.com/images/shop/photos/MON/8580_m.jpg Shawn Higbee sdhigbee2@hotmail.com

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I have been to Florida many times. What a great state. Bikini clad women and surfin. Climbing aint everything. PLus they know how to party. Not like a bunch of boring people I have seen around here. Cavey, I'll grant you there is some slight advantage to the prevelance of vanity in southern women, but you are overlooking some very important points, namely: **No good beer whew... I need another one of those **No good coffee. In a town with a couple hundred thousand people, you cant even get a crappy starbucks... **An abismal (sp?) lack of outdoor education/etiquette. This concept of leave no trace is so far removed from so many of these people it is incredible **As far as "knowing how to party"... ummm, you might be taken aback at the amazing number of beachfront hotels/developments. This may not sound like much, but what 30yrs ago was nearly "untrammeled by man" is now concrete jungle, spring break hell. The traffic on the beach moves at the same pace as I-5 during rush hour. Dont get me wrong, I have met some really great people down here. To be fair I have to say that on average southerners are much friendlier than most folks, and many will stop to help you if you break down on the highway. The ocean temp here is a balmy 85 degrees (can you say SCUBA?) and the sand on the beaches is so white it looks like someone poured big bags of sugar everywhere. It is not the 4th circle of hell, but for a climber, it is not the place to be. Shawn [ 08-27-2002, 03:18 PM: Message edited by: Ibex ]

This state seems to have a self-limiting philosophy about vertical sports.... I think it is simply the idea that to be "cool" what a person does is go buy something expensive (ie. car), shows it off and then society embraces them. The notion that a person can develop tangible skill through perseverence, self-discipline and practise; the reward for which is only one's own gratification, not applause or fame... seems to be a novelty at best in these parts. Of course, maybe I am just a little bitter about having to move here. Happy Tuesday all you lucky folks in the PNW Shawn [ 08-27-2002, 11:00 AM: Message edited by: Ibex ]

quote: Originally posted by mwills: i have a brand new pair of Karhu Bardini skis (unmounted) for sale. Here are the specs: SOLD!!! Oh wait, I forgot. I live in Florida... Dammit...

As for static ropes the best two I have found (from my brief career as a ropes course instructor) are: New England KMIII - Saft enough to stiff be knotable PMI both Maxi-wear and EZ Bend- The Maxi wear is as stiff as cable, durable as hell but unruly for anything other than "sport rappelling". EZ Bend is nearly as durable with similar handling to the new england (and I think it is cheaper too). I would stay away from Blue Water static line. It is supposedly "semi-dynamic" (ie. if you accidentally took a fall on it, it might not snap your spine and blow your anchors) which could be an important safety advantage if you intend to TR with it. THe downside is that by static rope standards it is not very durable. Thank you for one more chance to live vicariously through the internet... Cheers!

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: I use ski gogles in very cold and windy weather, usually winter. I have never had problems with the eyes. My brilliant (and shortlived) idea of wearing ski googles ice climbing ended after 10 minutes of **seriously** fogged lenses forced me to stop. On alpine/windier stuff they might have good enough ventilation to work. quote: It is my understanding that the darkness of the lenses and the filtering of UV A B & C rays are not always related. (Maybe some eye guys out there say diffent?) That is correct. The UV coatings are separate and unrelated (for the most part) from the darkness of the lense. Anybody else out there have a UV filter protecting the lense on their 35mm SLR...? quote: I now use a pair of similar style CEBEs that are a little smaller and more comfortable. I love them. Cost me about $50.00 to have the lenses put in (I know the guy). I have seen some guys that charge a small fortune, skip them and go to a regular eye guy....doing the lenses is not rocket science. This is something I wish I had done, I paid $300ish bucks for custom made glacier glasses. There are certainly cheaper ways of doing it, but I must say, I am **VERY** happy with the quality of the optics. For those interested souls, check out www.opticus.com out of boulder, co. quote: You want to use plastic lenses, because glass can shatter and weighs too much. You want to have them put a scratch resistant coating on the lenses...becuase plastic does tend to scratch (main problem with plastic). The main reason for getting glass (which is what i ended up getting) is the better optics, and the durability of the coatings. As long as you dont break them (they really are pretty tough) they will have a longer life than the plastic lenses. As far as the weight goes, as long as your prescription is under 2.5 diopters, the weight isnt really a problem. If you wear "coke bottles" get plastic. Another thing I have to say on behalf of opticus, is that they have a **LOT** more experience with high-altitude eyewear than your local optometrist, and excellent customer service. They can tune the lense material, frame, coatings, and tint to get exactly the product you want, and will even send you samples of the lenses to look at before you buy. With just a phone call with them, and you will be much further ahead of the game. FYI, i got the Julbo Atlas with "Froggy the Gremlin" lenses (red mirrored front) that makes the world look green when you look through it. They look a little wild, but they work like a champ. http://opticus.com/naked.jpg http://opticus.com/froglens.jpg Good luck! Shawn

offwidth, Here is a low-cost suggestion. DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME BY GOING TO RANIER!!! If you are looking for an alpine experience, there are so many better, less crowded, cheaper, and non-guided places to go. Maybe I am just a cynic, but I feel like there are so many good climbs in the cascades, that there is no really good reason to do Ranier other than being able to say "i climbed ranier". It's not a bad mountain, but it has a lot going against it in my book. Especially if you are doing one of the yak routes. Shawn Here's to the flatlands....

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: A double loop of Bluewater Titan 5.5mm cord tied with a triple fisherman's knot will extend the life of your Friends without much damage to your wallet. It will also be totally bomber. Putting the knots either side of the stem hole would be bulky. A single loop of the cord tied with a double fisherman would also work great. Keep the tails kinda long (around 3 inches). To piggyback on my buddy FC9's post, one thing I have done with some metolious cams is this: Get about 4' of your favorite techy cord, 6" of 1" tubular webbing, some dental floss and a stout needle. Fold the tubular around the center of the cord, and hand stitch the EDGES of the tubular around the cord, being very careful not to catch the 5.5mm in the process. So you have a doubled layer of "padding" around a 6" section of cord. Loop this through your favorite camming device, tie the ends with a triple fishermans. Now you have a loop, with a section of padding, tied through your cam. Slide the knot of the cord through the "tubular sheath" to position it about 3" from the cam stem. Now stitch the openings on either end of the tubular together to make a 3" (doubled) 'captive' loop for your cam. The nifty thing with this setup is that you can clip it short for racking with one biner, then when you go to use it, you dont need a draw, just one biner. Save weight, simplicity, etc. The cord is well padded by the tubular, and you can even use this for wire looped cams like Metolious and Wired Bliss. This (IMHO) is better than just slipping the cord through 9/16 webbing, b/c this way you get 2 layrs of padding, and it is much more tightly held on cord. If you are deathly interested, I can send you some pics of cams that I have done this too. If you die, it is your own damn fault.... Cheers Shawn

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: I figure I won't be skiing lift-served, but just skinning and the downhill back to trailheads. I need something I can find CHEAP/USED, and something that's a little forgiving for a chump non-skier like me. I don't know AT from Randonee from Slurpee... Will, I am going to make the assumption that you are looking at this mainly from a transportation standpoint, and not form a skier-performance-type standpoint. I think it depends completely on the type of boots you want to use. 1) Plastic/leather mtneering boots: You can use silveretta's with these (or damn near any welted boot). This lets you do the standard "downhill style" of turns. Beware though, you are giving up a lot in terms of control. I would buy some stubby 140-ish ski's from goodwill and you will only have to pay for the bindings. If you go this route do NOT buy their "easy go" bindings, they only work with (3) below, not mtneering boots. Note these are "releaseable", and silveretta's are the only major brand that will fit this genre of boots. 2) Telemark boots: look like downhill ski boots (for the most part) except for a big "wrinkle" in the plastic over the ball of your foot. tele boots need tele bindings, and you can use most any ski. The downside here is that tele turns are a completely different skill set than DH. If you find the stuff on sale/used it might be worth it to buy, but as just a means of transportation to a climb, I think this set up is at a small disadvantage b/c you are still wearing your ski boots when you want to climb, plus you have to learn to tele. Also note, the vast majority of tele bindings are NOT releasable. 3) AT/Randonee boots: Look almost identical to plain ole DH stuff. Expensive, ski's well, walk's ok. Uses the same bindings as number 1, but ski's a LOT better. Here the problem of having ski boots on your feet when you want to climb is even worse. Also by this time you have paid for the expensive boots AND bindings. One other curiosity is a "tele-conversion" somebody on this site did to make their mtneering boots work with tele bindings. Search around and you will find it. The cool thing there is the "handyman factor", low cost and you still only need mtneering boots. the downside is that you still have to learn to tele in order to use the things. If I were you (and I was in your shoes a year ago) i would go route (1). Then advantage there is that you can get your skis/bindings set up and then use your mtneering boots for climbs, and if you want, buy a crappy pair of used DH boots to play on liftserve with your buds. All for the low, low price of $200-ish. If you want ski's for the sake of backcountry skiing, I would honestly recommend a full tele setup. It is an EXTREMELY versatile system, with the ability to ski equally well uphill and down. As you said before, you are more into snowboarding, so you probably would not be happy with this route. Cheers! Shawn

quote: Originally posted by Zenolith: yes, erik, this has been discussed before, but i forgot and those searches are irritating. i would like to know if there is a 1/2 rope which offers enough stretch to be safely clipped to one peice as is usually done on ice climbs. Zeno, quityerbellyachin and do a search. the tech-heads on here debate this about once a month. In answer to your question, I beleive PMI makes a rope that can be used as EITHER a half or twin. check out www.pmirope.com and read up on it. Cheers Shawn

quote: Originally posted by wdietsch: bringing this back up to the top hoping to perhaps get a little more feedback. In particular I am interested in the "Ice Axe Handcuffs" as Yates calls them, the Alpine units Ibex refers to.Ibex.. is the plastic buckle that you refer to on the wrist strap? W.D. If i correctly understood your question, yes. It is the ladderlock buckle that "locks" your wrist to the leash. The tail of strap that goes through the buckle is secured with velcro. The other buckle on the leash is a beefy aluminum one that secures the leash to the tool. Cheers! [ 03-27-2002: Message edited by: Ibex ]

Also for sale, a Marmot Pinnacle Down Sleeping Bag. Great condition, used less than 20 nights. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1810240491 Cheers!