imorris

Another foot coming our way. Base at Timberline: 263 inches. Snorkel-worthy powder in Heather C. this weekend. Is this really happening? Oh yeah, I forgot:

quote: Originally posted by Matt: Genghis (Chingis) Khan lived in a tent. and he was a pansy. Everyone knows that.

Thanks for the objective info about those routes. Nice to hear from someone who actually climbed them w/o the usual "it's a death wish" stuff from people who seem to have only scoped the lines from Meadows! By the way, I'm amazed how often you come up as the first ascensionist for such a wide variety of climbing, yet you keep so quiet. Nice work on I. Rock, Gorge ice, trad, etc,etc. Good luck if you decide to return to K2. How's that for blowing sunshine? -Iain

I predict all carabiners will be made by BD within 5 years. BD: the Microsoft of climbing companies.

Sounds like a Wickwire climb. What's "Thermogennises"? An illness?

Tough for it to be the best of both worlds when you only carry one with you.

quote: Originally posted by allison: yes, I have had to slam this window shut at work a couple of times where embarassing stuff came up. Don't you love it when you enter a thread and you see 100 jpeg's loading up....you get your fingers on cmd-w in a hurry (if you're cool and using a Mac). Now to hack ultimatebb.cgi to allow mp3 attachments... hmm but it's Friday... I'm out of here.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Smoke up the hut pineyK style during weather breaks. I've no doubt w/ the weather of the C. Range and resources of B.C. one would achieve Muir Hut-like conditions, stat.

I didn't realize how high the coast range was up there. If you want a remote, wild trip w/luxury of hut, I highly recommend heading into the Clemenceau Group (#10 on that list) w/ a stay at the Grassi hut, which sits at a phenomenal location.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: yeah cause its more like 80% right The thread creeper says: If anyone caught the PBS Frontline show on "America's Drug War" it was a real eye-opener to how ridiculous the war on drugs has become since the Reagan admin..." I had a good idea about it, but the case studies really brought it home.

It's usually used to describe the physiological production of heat. Which makes it a quite understandable route name when you look at it.

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: Thermogenisis literally translated means "generation of heat"...blah blah It's spelled Thermogenesis. I was arrogantly making fun of the R&I poster's spelling. But now I will make fun of yours. Thanks for the science lesson Newton. That line looks more promising than the other Willis Wall lines...which is to say, terrifying and optimistic. [ 03-15-2002: Message edited by: imorris ]

Trivial, but I thought that was called the "Black Spider". I believe the "White Spider" refers to the Eiger.

Yes, mine has those little spring metal things, sorry for the syntax error. I guess I'll try to pop them out. Would be a bummer if they fell out later though. I could just see someone yarding on the axe shaft and the head comes off. I meant that Ushba comment for lizard brain.

I've said it before, but it seems the strongest statement you can make is to be caught w/o the pass, refuse to pay the fine, and take it to court to establish case precedent. Every case I know of has been dismissed. However, I'm not clear if this would be attached to your criminal record or not, or if it would be an issue if you wanted a government-funded position later in life. And many people do not have the time, energy, or finances to deal with a court case.

There are a number of posts about Leuthold C. here (so I'm at risk of being harrassed for talking about it ) but it is quite different than C. Spur. It is less exposed, following a gully which rains crap down on you all day, especially if someone is above. Angle is about 45 degrees, less than the top of c. spur but enough to keep it interesting. Some knowledge of crevasse rescue is warranted on the Reid G., though the danger is minimal, and many solo the route w/o problems. The summit traverse is exposed but very easy. As always, avoid when warm or av. conds high.

Damn straight! : (image blatently ripped-off of summitpost.com...I didn't take it)

I'm unaware of this study. My comment was based on what Bruce Smith and Allen Padgett say in On Rope- N. American Vertical Rope Techniques. This source claims alcohol or water base markers are fine. Phenol derivatives are not. If you can point to UIAA evidence which contradicts this I would consider it. 50% is an alarming statement.

quote: Originally posted by cj001f: imorris - where exactly did your head come loose?It came loose where it attaches to the shaft -- those two little bolts. It is still usable, just annoying. quote: Originally posted by cj001f: Anyone have experience with the Ushba? See my above post. The Ushba was my replacement axe.

I would think working at mt bachelor would drastically cut down on the number of "sick" days I took too. What do you do for vacations, hang out in cubicles looking at TPS reports? I saw the parking lot cam. Looks killer up there right now. And I'm glad there was some closure for the searchers up there the other week.

Perhaps difficult to justify at retail, but I have been pleasantly surprised by the Ushba Altai. I was alarmed by the weight, but seems durable enough. I got mine via pro deal, not sure what they cost retail these days. I have the 55cm length, a little short. Lack of swing weight is a problem, but fine for general mtn'ing. You probably have to do a lot of time in the mtn's to justify it. Had a BD Alpamayo for years before that, another solid contender built like a tank (and weighs about the same). Eventually the head came loose, hence my newer axe. I'm sure there are some Alpamayo users out there. Anyone know how to tighten down the head?

quote: Originally posted by Nelly: The Breach Wall: Kilimanjaro & the Conquest of Self by Rob Taylor. It's Touching the Void 15 years before Joe Simpson even though of climbing! A great read, better than "Void" I randomly gained a signed copy of "The Breach" from somewhere....had never heard of it and read it a long time ago before I was even into climbing much. Gripping, and at times, disgusting (when he makes it back below treeline). Thumbs up.

I've been a member of PDX RG for some time now and I still don't know a soul there! I'm a relatively quiet person but it's kindof funny for all these people to recognize me there but I've never talked to a one of them! Not that I don't like them or anything. Probably 'cause I'm a V2 kindof guy and spend "valuable crag time" climbing volcanic choss/rime piles.

Sorry didn't catch your post 'till now. We were actually climbing Wy'east. Some of our party were moving way too slow to finish and it was starting to white out, so up on the rim, we decided to downclimb DKH to hit the goat trail. Two of us downclimbed and we set pickets for a less-experienced person in our group to rappel. It was all rime and the odd loose boulder. It wasn't very fun but it wasn't in the best of condition either. A little alarming when the pitch started rolling over into the mist and I couldn't see if I was climbing down into some real steep stuff, hanging off rime. When I got to the bottom I was in a seething stink machine (the kitchen) that rusted out picks and crampons asap and left my clothes stinkin'. By "litter" I just meant there was a bunch of pickets up there to be had (on various routes in sketchy locations).