MountainMan

Thanks for the replies. I decided to wait on Spickard/Redoubt/Rahm/Custer until later on in the season (probably the last week of July).

Jens, I had the same thing happen to me on the way out of Colchuck Pk. I got bit by something and have a VERY large bump on my leg ... it itches and aches. Spider? Carpenter Ant? Hungry Mosquito?What the hell could it be?

Has anyone been into Redoubt/Spickard area this year? I'm primarily interested in the condition of Depot Creek trail and any known access issues. TIA.

We drove to the parking lot (about 1 mile short of the end of the paved road) and arrived at about 12:30 PM on Saturday afternoon under sunny skies. The Summit Pyramid was unobscured. We left the parking lot at about 1:00 PM on Saturday 6/15, climbed up to Austin pass, descended the gulley into the Swift Creek basin, and traversed the hillside towards Lake Ann. Temperatures were in the mid to upper 70s. The snow was very soft and slushy the entire way up to Lake Ann. Upon arriving at Lake Ann we set up camp about 150 ft. above the lake where we had a perfect view of the Lower and Upper Curtis Glaciers, the Hourglass, Hells Highway, and the Summit Pyramid. We discussed our route for the next day and had a good idea of where we wanted to go. Saturday evening, around 9PM, I could see a layer of clouds beginning to form overhead. My party and I didn't realize that these clouds were to be our downfall. Throughout the evening and night we heard the sounds of many avalanches coming off the Upper and Lower Curtis Glaciers. It was a very warm night by North Cascades standards, with the temperature hovering around 40-45 degrees all night. The next morning we woke up at 3:30 AM, packed up, and began the rising traverse to the base of the ascent to the Chimneys under cloudy skies and a full-on mist. The snow hadn't solidified at all overnight and was just as slushy and messy as when we came in the day before under sunny skies. We came to the base of a 55 degree slope which we thought was the base of the route, but being cloudy and misty, and with the visibility at right around 30ft., we just coulnd't tell. We ascended the slope for about 400 ft. and it began to steepen to 60 degrees. After ascending about 75 more vertical feet, we came to a small "plateau". We then followed a snow finger about 100 vertical ft. to a dirty, near vertical gulley. We climbed the [100 ft.] gulley and topped out on a moderate snow slope that headed nowhere. At this time, the visibility was decreasing (20 ft.). We came to the base of a rock outcropping at about 5950 ft., and encountered a 70-80 degree snow slope that descended into the great white unknown. At this time it was 7:00 AM and my party mutually agreed to sit it out for an hour or so to wait for better visibility -- we couldn't see what was below us, and we couldn't see what was above us. After about an hour and a half of waiting for the weather to clear, it was only getting worse and we were getting soaked by a relentless mist. At 8:50, we decided to bag it and began our descent back down to Lake Ann. We were clearly not on the proper route, as we hadn't traversed around enough towards the Lower Curtis and I believe we stopped on a pinnacle just above the Shuksan Arm. But with visibility as it was, even if we had been on route we still wouldn't have been able to find our way through the chimneys. In my opinion, the Chimenys are at least 3 weeks out. There's still quite a bit of snow up there. We didn't summit, but all-in-all we still had a great weekend. We'll be back for either the North Face or another attempt on the Chimneys later on this summer.

Matt C. didn't die Dennis. quote: Report compiled by John Stimberis, Avalanche Control Technician-WSDOT, through phone interviews with both members of the party. [ 06-12-2002, 05:05 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

Johannesberg E. Ridge. Me. [ 06-11-2002, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

Black Peak is a good one .. so is Silver Star, Mesachie, Cashmere Mountain, Hidden Lakes Peak, Mt. Maude, Chiwawa, Azurite .. the list goes on. Have fun!

I've got a ID Unishelter Exp. Length as well, and I love it. At 2 lbs, 8 oz. and coupled with a Sil Shelter weighing in at 16 oz (combined weight 3lbs 8 ozs), it's lighter than most one man tents and works well in wet weather. There is lighter stuff out there (like the Hilleberg Akto one man tent weighing in at 3 lbs 7 oz packed weight (1 oz lighter than the sil shelter / ID Unishelter combination) and at comparable prices. The Akto goes for $340 and I got my Unishelter and Sil Shelter for $350 ... and the Akto is lighter. When I got my ID Unishelter I didn't know about the Hilleberg Akto .. If I had known about it, I probably would have opted for it instead .. it looks like a really nice tent! If you're thinking about getting a bivvy sack by itself (no tarp), I would advise against it ... getting in and out of bivvy sacks in wet weather gets you and your gear wet! If it were me, I'd spend the money and get the Akto.

Do I smell jealousy? No no, thats just fish coming from the pussy between caveman's legs. Dont cry you big chapter 13 homo .. I'm just "sprayin". LOL

Twin Spires AKA Mox Peaks has some of the toughest ascent routes in the cascades ... plus an approach. Just make sure u bring back some nice photos for us ... be safe.

lol ^^^^ yeah id be interested in that TR on the E Face of twin spires too. [ 05-31-2002, 06:08 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

I don't know if you'll find any pics of Goldenhorn peak on the net .. I have some from my ascent, but they are on film .. not in .jpg format. I don't know anything about base jumping, so I can't tell you if it's doable ... all I can say is its definitely sheer.

You might look at Goldenhorn peak in the NCNP. Its sheer and large. It looks like a hell of a climb though (other than the walkup approach). Be safe. [ 05-31-2002, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

Another tragedy this climbing season ... http://www.komotv.com/stories/18629.htm

I was in the Colchuck Col this weekend 18MAY02 ... conditions were very soft ... camped at 7000' and got rained on. I climbed to the col with snowshoes on -- no crampons needed. I don't know what kind of information you're looking for, but if you were to head up there now (aside from ordinary mountaineering obstacles) I can't see anything preventing you from summitting. DEFINITELY bring snowshoes for the approach .. I postholed up to my neck several times on the approach (even with snowshoes). [ 05-23-2002, 02:42 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

See what I mean? ------------------------------------------------

lol .. you all need to look at that picture again ... lol! [ 05-15-2002, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

lol .. looks like I ruffled a few feathers. Well mikeadams, like I said, I'll be at the next pub club so you know where to find me.

quote: Originally posted by sk: I've seen the site you got this from... All I have to say about it is just because something is there doesn't mean you should use it. The site I got it from isn't listed in my post .. so no you don't have any idea where I got it from. If you really must know, I got it from http://www.ak-47.net Here's the link : http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48400

vegan, first of all, i dont know what spray is. second of all, if I were to post up about how I objected to certain people antagonizing others or making needless posts about everything but the topic at hand when someone asks a serious question on this (a cascade climber information board), I would hear, "Shut up gaper .. if u dont like it, dont read it" ... I've heard it before. So you can just do the same thing and not read it and move on with your lives. It's a harmless picture. Get off your high horses and laugh at the funny picture. Why on earth is there even a "spray" forum if you all are going to ruin every valid post on the board? I come here to find out information on climbing routes, and conditions, etc. and everytime I do, I see some little kid saying something dumb. I'm curious .. why is there even a spray forum? Peter Puget brought up a very good point though in his last post. How can you sit there and denounce my post when you aren't denouncing other posts .. such as Captain Caveman's infinite dumb and meaningless posts? Or any one of his avatars .. or his drinking buddies. Is it because you all know him and he goes to the pub club meetings and I do not? Well, how about I make it to the next pub club and you all can tell me your opinion of me to my face. I think that's the best idea yet because you all are obviously too ignorant to understand what you're reading. Everytime I climb in the cascades, and I happen upon another party, somehow the topic of cascade climbers.com comes up. "You don't post on cascade climbers.com do you? That site is full of little kids", is often what I'll hear. This has happened numerous times ... I'm not making this up. I don't admit that I come here, of course, because I don't want to be cast in the same light as some of the retards who post on this site. There's a lot of good people on this site, and a lot of good information, and I've learnd a lot. But there's just as many disgusting, morons on this site who do nothing better to do than to type meaningless crap in response to every post. You all need to put the beer down for 11 seconds, get off your soapboxes, and listen to reason. I'm done with this post, not the board. I'll continue to get information from this board ... but I'll never ever admit to posting here. [ 05-15-2002, 03:56 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

Captain Caveman, don't get all hurt because I posted your photo.

quote: Originally posted by erik: would you make that statement to someone who is handicapped?? i doubt it. I never did, so you've got a moot "point". quote: Originally posted by erik: another thing as far as i know there are no autistic posters here to even defend(and it shouldnt have to happen) theirselves. but what is there to defend for them?? defective dna and body chemistry?? these are things out of their control and out of everyones control for that matter. Nobody has to defend themselves, it's obviously a joke. quote: you wanna attack someone do it. but do it in the right fashion. shit make fun of me if you are that pathetic and feel the need too. i dont care, make fun of someone less fortunate you are an asshole. i know bone he understands the diatribe as well as most people. you are attacing something that is not even repersented here. You're making this into something way bigger than it is ... quit being so hurt and laugh at the funny picture. quote: i bet your mommy and daddy pay for you schooling....fawkin tool!!! go get bent... Way to stay on topic drunky. lOl

Ah cmon, do you folks have to see a picture of something objectionable before you object to something? Captain Caveman and the rest have been making stupid comments, antagonizing people, etc. for eons on this site and yet nobody objects to that. You guys might argue the fact that they are exericising their free speech. Well so am I. I truly don't care if you all don't like the picture ... I'm not taking it down. And I didn't create this picture, I found it elsewhere on the internet and thought it was funny. It is funny. Just because you volunteer full time at the Special Olympics doesn't mean you can't have a sense of humor. We see people making jokes about other races, but just because we are a member of that other race does that mean we should not tell jokes about other races? That's pretty stupid. [ 05-15-2002, 02:19 PM: Message edited by: ]

It's really too bad this site has been ruined by a few individuals. I don't think I've ever read a single thread where someone doesn't say something adolescent. This could be a really nice site. Cheers to those of you who actually have something intelligent to bring to the table.

I have a couple of comments. First of all, on the topic of whether or not snowmobiles should be allowed in Mt St Helens National Monument, I think they should be allowed to summit the mountain via sled. I like climbing and isolation as much as the next man, but I think we're being a little selfish here. Everyone pays taxes on these lands whether they're climbers, snowmobilers, or gapers. Who's to say climbers should be the only ones who should use the mountain? If you're truly looking for an isolated, serene mountain experience, you surely wouldn't have chose to climb Mt. St. Helens. The herd of gapers I often see when I've been to St. Helens is evidence of that. On the other hand, charging climbers a $15 fee and allowing snowmobilers to ascend to the peak for free is absolutely ludicrous. Whoever brainstormed that idea should be in strong contention for next year's Darwin awards. If you're going to treat land users equally as was so stated in the e-mail response written a couple posts back, then treat them equally. Perhaps this was justified by the fact that snowmobilers only get to use the south side of the mountain. I don't know. And finally, I'm not a snowmobiler, I never have been .. I've never even been on one. But in all fairness, I truly don't see a reason why snowmobilers shouldn't be able to recreate on St. Helens. Just my 2 cents.