MountainMan

Worst approach : Primus Peak ... Diablo Lakes Wilderness. Park at Diablo(?) campground and walk in 6 miles on the trail along side Thunder Creek. Take a right over a bridge and climb 5500' vertical cross-country through "Doghair trees" so tight that you can't get you and your backpack between them (THUNDER RIDGE -- named by Pioneers who undoubtedly would have rather been killed by a giant clap of thunder than climb up and down that crap). There were pine needles everywhere (down my shirt, in my hair, stuck in the mesh on the waistband of my backpack [there's still some in there to this date]) on a hot 90+ degree mid-July day. Swarms of gnats who only like to fly up climbers' noses waiting behind each and every tree. The trail is so steep that if it were any steeper, you'd need your crampons to give you traction on the dirt (or a system of elevators). Routefinding is nearly impossible because the terrain is so steep and rocky (the descent was worse). Cliffs everywhere and you can't see them until your right up on them because the brush is so dense -- thank God for GPS!!! And did I mention its steep??? Worst Descent : Primus Peak, Diablo Lakes Wilderness. Coming down Thunder Ridge was the toughest 5 hours of my life. Not too many people get up to Primus Peak (we were the 3rd party to climb it in a one year period) so following remnants of footsteps to aide you in routefinding was fruitless. The trees (affectionately dubbed doghairs by some poor cascade climber) grew so close together that I was often forced to remove my backpack to walk between two trees -- or find another path (although sometimes, removing my pack was the only option). We must have encountered 20 cliff bands descending those 5500 vertical feet to Thunder Creek. Each time we encountered a cliff band, we'd have to backtrack to find another route. When I got to the creek bottom I had numerous open blisters (I never get blisters) I was exhausted, dehydrated, and it was just getting dark. I had just descended from the summit of Primus Peak (8508') to about (2500)' (6000 vertical feet). My climbing partners decided they were too pooped to get out to the car and it was getting dark, so they began to set up camp. I, fearing I wouldn't be able to get out of the tent the next day due to my blisters and soreness, and knowing I still had a 6 mile trail walk back to the car, began to hobble back towards the parking lot. It got dark fast and I only had a 2 "AA" cell MagLite to light my way. I was in EXCRUCIATING pain from my blisters and was forced to walk on the sides of my feet to make any progress. I was dehydrated, delirious from a combination of dehydration and severe exhaustion, and wanted to get back to the van. About 4 miles in, I considered collapsing right there in the middle of the trail until the next morning when my climbing partners were due to hobble by. But somehow, I managed to push the last couple of miles following a vision of a warm, comfortable van.

Well, the weather outlook was good when I planned this trip. Now, it's not so nice. I think I'll watch TV instead.

I'm looking to do Colchuck via the Stuart Lake Trail/Colchuck Col approach early next week. I'm wondering if anyone has been up there recently and if so what are the conditions like. Thanks. [ 03-16-2002: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

Primus Peak, Greenwood Peak.

Goodness woman! Eat something before you blow away!

My partner and I Climbed Dragontail via Asgaard pass today, 10/06. The snow (or lack thereof) on that glacier is VERY ICY and you would be foolish not to take crampons and an ice-axe. Without crampons, today's conditions would have rendered a successful descent impossible (we had no slings or rope). We had ski poles and aluminum crampons only and were nearly forced to turn around ~200 ft. below the summit (on the ascent). You really need an ice axe .. one slip on that stuff and it's lights out. Also, Colchuck Glacier is bad right now .. I wouldn't touch it. [This message has been edited by MountainMan (edited 10-06-2001).]

I forgot to ask you .. did u get Jenn-Bird up there?

It might also have been a Fisher (sp?). I have seen two Fishers in the Northwest .. one in Stehekin, the other at the base of Mt. Stuart.

There are a couple of people on this site who are clearly younger in mind than the rest. I like coming to this site for trip beta and to learn things about the Cascades that I didn't know before. There are some really good people on this site who are willing to offer positive feedback to people who have honest questions. Then there are those who think their questions are the only ones that matter .. who snicker like little kids when someone asks a serious question ... who offer smart-ass advice for someone who wants information on a climbing route. Either you have the information or you don't .. if you don't, fine .. read the damned post and move on with your life. I'm quite sure if someone is asking a question about Mt. Robson that they understand the dangers involved in mountaineering and the ever-changing nature of environmental conditions in the alpine wilderness. I've been climbing in the Cascades for 20 years .. throughout those 20 years, 99.9% of the climbers I have met have been very helpful and kind. It isn't until I came to this website that I met some true assholes. It's a real shame to have to come here and read this juvenile fodder. Maybe these little kids should put disclaimers in their signatures informing readers that not all cascade climbers are that ignorant. Then again, maybe they should just think about what they're saying before they type it. Thats my opinion, take it for what it's worth. And don't bother replying to me directly, because I won't be back to this thread.

So whats the verdict? Did you get it?

You should think about riding a bicycle up there. I rode up there yesterday. We parked at the 8 mile mark and rode all the way to the top. The ride down was FAST and FURIOUS. It only took about an hour to ride the 24 miles down to the car. Of course if you have a lot of beer .. er .. gear ... then you might want to take the subaru.

I've got the Beckey book and I require more info than is offered in the book. If you look at the route description for the Southeast approach in the old Beckey book and the one in the new Beckey book you too will realize that they are different. The route description in the new Beckey book calls for 100 ft. of class 4 .. the old one does not. I am bringing a novice climber up to Buck Mountain with me who is not experienced at climbing class 4 and 5. I also do not want to carry rope all the way up there if I don't need it. You seem to believe that only information on class 5 routes is worthy of being in this forum. If that's the case, you need to go re-read the forum heading. So does anyone else besides "captain dickhead" have any pertinent information on the Southeast route up Buck Mountain? Thanks in advance for any serious help. [This message has been edited by MountainMan (edited 09-12-2001).]

Why don't you wait until next summer when we get Klawatti, Austera, and Eldorado? Talk to pops for some beta if he gets back in time .. he'll be able to give you some good info.

BACK TO TOP .... HAVE ANY CASCADE CLIMBERS CLIMBED OR TALKED TO SOMEONE WHO HAS CLIMBED BUCK MOUNTAIN. ISN'T ANYONE ELSE GOING AFTER THE TOP 100? Sorry for yelling.

Buck Mountain ... located by Glacier Peak, Fortress, Dome, Chiwawa, Fernow, 7FJ, and Maude. Has anyone on this site climbed Buck Mountain???

Nope, not me. The adventure is on hold until I speak with someone who has been up there and who has found a nice route. Climbed Fernow in a day this weekend car to car instead of risking a non-summit at Buck.

I'll be taking a trip to Buck Mountain to climb the Southeast route. Does anyone have any information that might be useful for me (i.e. condition of King's Glacier in late season)? The approach is from Trinity via the Buck Creek Trail. Any input is appreciated.

duct tape works great to prevent the balling up of snow using stubai ultralites.

How steep would you estimate the top 25 ft. to be on the snowfield below the false summit?