genepires

The brightest candle burns shortest. His candle went solar.

Now on Netflix if you wanna watch for free

this must a record TR for you. You usually are not a subject in photos but this time you made it in 5 images. Good thing to climb with someone who knows and likes to take photos too. great TR.

you could maybe find a used board on "Splitboards of Washginton" facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/250388675093963

you always manage to avoid the crowds. good job and great photos.

convince the mountain bikers that they need trails that happen to scoot near the cave. them guys (evergreen mountain bike alliance) are trail builders extraordinaire.

they may not run courses in the more unpredictable weather months, one can still hire private one on one guiding through those same companies. gonna be expensive though.

that tooth fairie route feels like easy 5.10 route especially on the crux. 5.9+ can mean a lot to different climbers. but maybe another line went in somewhere nearby tooth fairy.

The “possible go around” is doable. That is part of the Easton route which should be continuous ice.

Great photos. Thanks for the update. Climate change really did a number on the Ronan wall. Your last photo is especially interesting/sad. There should be no rock Cliff on the top of Roman wall. Ice recession.

wait till I climb it with my 14yo kid before anyone chops it. would rather not traumatize the boy. I have climbed it a bunch of times too but don't think this is some kind of travesty. it is actually a good thing.

john scurlock has a interestuinig FB post on this glacier thing going on

recent photo from summit area. the area right below the summit tip is fine to unrope. as far as elsewhere on mountain, i would never unrope while on glacier unless i could verify without a doubt that I was not on a crevasse bridge. Either would have to avi probe a safe zone or stand on bare ice. You can not assume that flat compression sections of glacier are crevasse free. You may have the option of finding bare ice gathering places. :ike I mentioned earlier beware of hanging fire off of colfax or other of the black butes. glacier calving or spontanious rock fall. the pummice ridge (colfax saddle if def non glaciated.

I will chime in but realize that I have not been on that route this year so take it for what it is worth. I have done the route in late season, about the same time as you will be doing it. I did not need ice screws to belay the roman wall. just use proper crampon and axe technique. If you are not solid with that, then either running belay or standard belay off of screws, depending on your level of comfort. If you are going to pitch it out, I would guess about 5 rope lengths assuming you crampon to were you feel uncomfortable. I have not heard about that monster shrund from guide services like previous years. there was a crazy hanging fire off colfax so I would suggest that you hustle past that point. maybe take breaks before and after that exposure. getting from the colman glacier to the pumice ridge can be wierd this time of year. expect a little bit of bare glacier ice there. can't help with specifics there as it surely changed since I was there. there is always water at hogsback, meltwater off the glacier. purify that water. the ONLY place i have ever gotten sick from drinking water unpurified is the one time I did not purify there at hogsback camp.

add that is you are going bare glacier ice climbing, do not assume that self arrest is an option. if it is steeep enough that a slip will result in sliding, do running belays. that means carrying several ice screws.

coleman deming route on baker may be ok to try. evidently the most schrund/crevasse that formed wall to wall and prevented all access last year has not formed. hustle past the hanging fire on colfax pk. expect much of winter snow to be gone and be walking on bare glacier ice, especially on the deming part (roman wall) of the route. or dirty trail climb up st helens plus what Jason said.

that is going to be hard to watch knowing the ultimate outcome. I feel like I would be screaming and crying in between moments of pure joy.

heard there was major road damage due to flooding during the heat wave. creeks coming off of boston basin took out the road but that is upstream of eldo TH.

well.......I have not been up there this season, or in the last dozen or so years, but usually there is good ice climbing by now. there is usually open ice year round but getting to them can be tricky with snow covering up some of the cracks. But I would bet that now, especially given the recent heat wave, that the approach snow is gone and bare ice all the way. not sure if you have ever been there but find the climbers campground (mirkwood) in the trees. should be a trial going there. keep going down the ridge till you see a another climber trail going down to the glacier.

very creative route. thanks for the TR.

bridges should be thick enough that the shallow portions that are warmed will not affect the strength of bridge. now bridges you can see, those would be sketch in the heat. as far as wet sloppy avi slides, I would think that hells highway is the only portion that would be of concern. maybe winnies slide. if you go early enough, then it should not be a problem. like before 2pm 70F is pretty warm for summit temp but a 60F is not unheard of. Wonder if that forecast is for while we are in this heat wave and could return to norm in a week.

good question. I never did the route where you needed to go back up the other side on your purple line but that red line looks like it has advantages. less drop down to creek, being more downstream may have less slide alder and a lower angle up hill on other side. let us know what you find out when you go up that route.

fuck one needs a permit in the pickets? I thought it was a free for all up there.