MtnHigh
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Flier Update
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OIT OHSU WILDERNESS FIRST AID
Dates: May 6-8th and May 28-30th (memorial day)
Cost: $250 including room and board
LOCATION: Mazama Lodge in Government Camp, OR
COURSE DESCRIPTION
This is a 2.5 day introductory course in Wilderness Medicine. It applies to anyone with an interest in the outdoors or travel in which adequate medical care is not an option. Curriculum is based on the internationally accredited Wilderness Medical Society Field Practice Guidelines and is delivered by current Advanced Life Support providers with multiple years of field experience and wilderness medicine instruction. We cover all topics associated with altitude, cold, heat, trauma, medical and advanced wound care techniques. CPR is included and applied to a wilderness/remote environment. Come prepared to run scenarios and practice improvising medical equipment. Walk away with a certification and a knowledge base that will allow you to
recognize, prevent and treat medical emergencies in challenging environments.
REGISTRATION/POLICIES
Tuition payment in full is required to reserve your spot in the course. Tuition is non-transferable. Tuition is payable by check or cash to the Oregon Institute of Technology.
The tuition fee covers textbooks, syllabus, equipment and certification cards. A full refund will be given if we are forced to cancel the course for any reason. Please fill out registration at the following link and send to OIT. www.oit.edu/non-admit Please make checks out to OIT.
LODGING/MEALS
Tuition Price includes: Lunch and dinner on the first day, breakfast lunch and dinner day two and breakfast on day three. Lodging is also included in the price for the evening of day one and two.
For Registration or any other questions please contact Adam Wagner at:
Adam Wagner
WEMT-P, OIT OHSU Wilderness and Global Medicine Faculty
wildernessmedicine09@gmail.com
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A quick search on the GoogleMachine produced this:
Mtn Project Screamer Discussion1
Mtn Project Screamer Discussion2
Screamer Physics by John Yates
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Any BC residents know if Duffey Lake, Marble Canyon, Bridge River, etc around Lillooet survived the recent warming trend?
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Those crazy Oklahoma cowboys. Looks like climbing the side of a beer can.
At the 35 sec point in the video the commentator says: 'instead of being like artificial rock climbing this is actually real ice climbing'
please....
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Todd,
Nice work on Hamilton. I've been wondering when you would get back on those flows. The last time we roped up together was on Blackjack back in '99. That was a great season in the Gorge.
What where you guys sport climbing?
Sport climbing? What you talkin about? You know that ice and sporto don't go together.
I'll PM you my number. Give me a call.
Pete
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Pete's Pile info plus responses to various questions and comments
The area with the belay bench and mid anchors is dry. No ice forms there. The ice climbs are all south of there.
Anchors
Establishing an anchor on top for most of the ice lines is challenging. Trees on the bench above the wall are more than 200' back except for the far right side of the cliff(pic #1).
There are no anchors above the climbs in the first 5 pics. There are chains above the climb in the middle of pic #6 (labeled left side).
The bench above the cliff is littered with large boulders. Bring long slings to wrap them or you might get lucky with rock pro.
Some of the walls at Pete's including the wall in pic #8 has spring/summer/fall climbing restrictions because of a rare plant that resides there. That's probably why there are few anchors on obvious ice lines.
Parking
The pullout for Pete's, located south of the Cooper Spur road on hwy 35 at the south end of 8' high netted rock catchment fence along the east side of the hwy, is blocked in winter by a snow bank from plowing the hwy. Park on the west side of the hwy about a half mile south of the normal pullout. ODOT has a large pullout plowed for the campground and access to trails.
Approach
From the normal pullout on the east side of the hwy hike up and left through a steep forest. The cliff above is about a half mile long and parallels the hwy, so it is difficult to miss the crag. In summer the approach is under 15 min.
or
Just follow the tracks we layed down on Friday. It is not suppose to snow/rain until Wednesday, so our tracks will be there for a few days.
Now I must get back to the Badger game.
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Drove the Gorge mid afternoon Wednesday on my way back from E-burg with my head hanging out the window. Another tease. Almost all climbs visible from the road are THIN or have flowing water in the center.
Ainsworth middle third pitch is blank, no ice. The upper and lower sections have a narrow thin streak of ice.
The climb with most ice from top to bottom is Wayne's test piece Black Dagger (did I get the route name right?)
The Washington side flows were not in either.
Kudos to Dustin for scratching up Mist in the dark. Double kudos to Amy for waiting in the car.
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Summary
The city of Portland will charge residents for the removal of leaves from city streets. Fees will range from $15 to $65.
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Let's do this
Round 1 cow
Spectator involvement
Ouch!
Bovine sleeper hold
Where's the ref when needed
The audience jeers the looser
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I'm attending the memorial for Dallas on Saturday. Traveling from Portland. Willing to pick up others along the way. I would rather not travel alone. PM's please.
Thanks,
Pete
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While chatting with Beacon yeti JH heard word that said Ivan was fighting his way up Dancer. Noonish I strolled over to have a look and you were just above the roof. You looked detained at the time so I kept my hello's to myself. Around 5pm when beers were looking better than another pitch I walked by again before heading for the barn. Kyle had finally gotten off the belay and was extracting a pin in the same spot where I saw you 5 hours prior. Felt sorry for Kyle having to belay for 5 hours from a hanging stance. Ouch! You own that man a life time of beer.
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There's a bitchin' route on the larger western pillar that starts at the base and tops out. We did it car to car, so bivvy gear is optional, but I believe that TO's guide recommends two days. Bring a big rack including, tri-cams, bongs, bashies, pins and needles. And video your climb so we can all watch it on cc. Awesome dude!
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You never know who's watching
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The T-line vendor/operator, RLK and Company, maintains the climber's registration room and the associated toilet. It would be interesting to know why the door to that toilet is usually locked. It might have something to due with it being an already grungy public space (the toilet) that attracts unscrupulous people who leave gross messes behind and hence, RLK would rather leave it locked than have to continually clean it up. Just my guess.
The toilets within the day lodge are open to the public during the day when the day lodge is unlocked. Unfortunately the building is locked at night. Follow Maine-iac's advice and use the main lodge's toilet at night.
The east end of the day lodge including the climber's registration room may undergo a remodel in the near future. Lets hope that the toilet is included in the plans and if so that access to it improves.
What the south side of Hood really needs is a shit bucket between Crater Rock and the top of the Palmer chair lift. 10s of thousands of skiers, hikers and climbers pass through there each year. Every loose rock on the ridge just above the chairs has a turd hiding under it.
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Chris, thanks for the post. The most exciting part of the climb was belaying your lead on pitch 4. Excellent job on incredibly delicate rock.
Our old man two day siege approach to the route allowed for an evening of copious beer drinking and story telling at an excellent camp spot.
In summary I believe the free grades go at:
P1: Boldering move to 5.easy
P2: 10b
P3: 10b
P4: 11-
P5: 10d
The Porn
East Face
The NE route takes advantage of numerous comfy ledges, dark blobs in the pic.
Pitch 3
Pitch 4 Start
Ledge Top of Pitch 4
Jugging Pitch 5
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Let it flow....
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[video:youtube]
IPCC: 80% renewables is possible within 40 years
in Spray
Posted
The recent BPA announcement doesn't lend to increasing renewable energy much.
BPA Decision