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MtnHigh

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  1. Climb the W Ridge on 7/2. You can read my posting at: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000116.html
  2. It's no bullschmidt about the ravens on Baker as fishstick mentions. We were serac bouldering on the Coleman about 1,000' above camp when the ravens moved in. The winged beasts opened one of the packs that was left at camp, scattering the contents across the glacier. By the time we descended to camp, they had already had their fun.
  3. hakioawa, Here is some recent beta on Forbidden's West Rigde. I climbed it Monday 7/2. Due to the warm weather you'll want to start while the snow is hard. Ascending the couloir after 9am would be a slush swim. We ascended the couloir at 6am on hard snow. The berg at the bottom of the coulior is opening up, but easily passable to the left. Unless you place running picket belays, there is no need to carry a pickets, flukes, etc. The gully just above the couloir is broken/loose rock, but the climbing is easy. Rock on the ridge is solid. The first 2-3 pitches are class 3-4 scrambles, followed by 4-5 pitches of moderately difficult climbing. There are slings every 80-120' along the ridge providing good protection. Above the gully we roped up with a 100' spacing between me and my partner, simu-climbing all but two pitches. Unless you are scarded schmitless on alpine rock, leave the big rack at camp. We placed less than 5 pieces of pro and slung only a few horns the entire route. The rock is solid, the climbing is moderately difficult, and there are bomber sling anchors all along the route. We rapped from the top 3 pitches, using existing slings, then downclimbed the rest of the route. There are rap slings every 100-130' down the couloir. They are handy once the snow turns to mush. Bring two ropes. Leave one at the top of the couloir for the raps down it. The sharpness of the ridge provides great exposure, giving the feeling of high alpine adventure. Yet the abundance of ledges and holds, and the blockly features of the rock provide all the security necessary. Forbidden W ridge is a good one. Pete
  4. Reply to jrwclimbs: You read my Liberty Ridge route condition dispatch under the user name: Peace Seeker Here are answers to your questions. Sorry about the confusion on the lower Lib ridge approach description. In haste of writing the report I got my east/west lower ridge description crosswired. Lower Liberty Ridge Correction: We started across the Carbon at the 7500' elevation heading directly for the WEST side of the lower ridge. At about 9000' WEST of the ridge we witnessed numerous rockfalls raining down the WEST side of the Lib. From there we headed SOUTH, opting for the lower ice fall instead of the traversing ascent of the lower ridge. The last 700' or so before Thumb Rock we exited the ice fall, traversing up the final slope. We spent Saturday afternoon at Thumb, watching and listening to rock and ice falls, mostly in Willis Wall. However, at 5pm the real show started. In the bright sunshine of the day a loud crack sounded, like near by lightning, startling the entire camp. The crack was slowly following by a thunderous roar to the west. A hugh block of the Liberty Cap Ice Cliff broke off, crashing down the Liberty Wall and onto the Carbon. It was like nothing I've ever seen in the mountains. The ridge above Thumb Rock was not subject to any slides or rock fall while we were on it (and it seldom is execpt for the unfortuate party we have all heard about since). The upper Emmons descent requires zig zagging through and around a few large obstacles. You'll need good visabily to make your way down to Schurman. You must traverse far to your right just after descending below the saddle between Russel Cliffs and the summit crater. After that try to pick up a track.
  5. A few years ago I read about a group of four that climbed Hood, Adams, Rainier, Glacier and Baker in that order in 5 days. They had a driver who shuttled them from mountian to mountain in a large van. They were raising funds for some good cause.
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