MtnHigh

Zen Master Tim gave me a copy of his Gorge Classic Climbs guide last fall and I finally had a chance to climb one the routes in his delightful book. The day before I called a friend to get beta on the approach. With the PCT and Table Mtn trails nearby and shit loads of abandoned logging roads in the area, unless you know the area intimately it is a confusing web of trails and roads. My friend's approach beta differed drastically from Tim's recommendation. Hmm, what to do. We decided to go with Tim's beta and it turned out to be just the ticket to avoid miles of misery and bushwacking. Finding the approach gulley at the base of the Ears is no trivial matter. We traversed across it, not knowing that a steep slope of trees and brush that we stared at for minutes but moved on constituted a gulley. We ended up circumnavigating the spire in search of the 'approach gulley'. At the north shoulder of the spire we sketched up rotten class 5 rock to the proper start of the climb. I could tell that nimble cat like climbing was the call for the day. Hoping that the rock would improve the higher we climbed was a fantasy. The first pitch, easy and ledgey, was endless choss. Drew took the 2nd pitch and disappeared around a corner. As I blindly belayed my thoughts were that good rock lay ahead. Following the pitch I was slapped in the face with more choss. Narry a solid hold for 90'. Drew stopped at the notch between the ears and set up an anchor, just 15' from the top. The last 15' to the top of the north ear finally offered solid rock. A nice low 5th class finish. Sunday was a beautiful day and the views of the Gorge from the spire was wonderful. If you are itchin' for some moderate yet sphincter clenching leads the Wabbit awaits your desires. Sorry I don't have an attached photo album. I'm too lazy to carry a camera, let alone take pics.

Tyler, great ideas. I'll do my best to ensure the FS takes notice to them.

The FS has been awarded approval to remodel and improve the climber’s registration room within the day lodge at Timberline. The FS has invited members of the local climbing community to assist by providing advice on the improvements. As a local climber I’ve been tasked with providing the FS input on what informational and process improvements should be made to the registration room. Your input is important. Please help by taking this brief survey. Our goal is to make the climber’s registration room accessible to all climbers while providing information that is current and relevant. Thank you Survey Link

Oregonian Cartoon

As recommended right here on cc.com, by an experienced, knowledgeable and credible source, the test to determine if ice flows are forming in the Gorge is to place a bucket of water in your back yard and see how long it takes to completely freeze. I did so on Saturday. To my giddy surprise the bucket is completely frozen this morning. Now the pondering questions are... Is it worth the time and effort to tour the Gorge in search of ice based on the results of the proven urban environment test? Should I make another pot of coffee, stay home and search the net for ice? Are 30 mph winds currently blowing in the Gorge sufficient information to stay home with coffee and internet?

15 years ago I injured the same bone in my left foot playing basketball. The fracture I received was two splits in the knuckle of the bone. There are a number of ligaments that attach to that knuckle. My injury also tweeked the hell out of the ligaments. I started light running on it 4 weeks later. It felt OK. After six weeks I went cragging and re-injuried it. X-rays showed that the splits in the knuckle widened. It took another 4 months after the re-injury to walk normally (placing full weight on it) without pain. I did not run, hike or climb for 8 months. My experience told me that a Jones fracture is a slow healing injury, one that you need to be patient with. To this day I still have occasional pain from the injury, but it is not severe and it does not inhibit me from participating in athletics. Good luck with your recovery and take your time getting back on the horse.

I think that YW p1 could use some protection clean up. The first bolt is misplaced (too far right) and there are two gear options within 6' of the bolt (above and below the bolt) directly on the climb line. The pin about 35' up is redundant. There is a bolt 12' below it and another bolt 4' above it. The climbing in this section is not difficult (5.7-5.8) and it does not warrant such closely placed fix gear.

I do not feel that the top of YW p3 needs any bolts. As others have suggested here, there are numerous gear options to build an anchor. Twice this summer I've built an anchor in the corner (left of the pins, right of the start of p4) with nothing but nuts. Lets try to keep the routes at Beacon as natural as reasonably possible.

After tagging the leader a couple of times we extricated the wasps from Sufficiently Breathless on Thursday. May you all climb in peace and happiness.

WFR (Wilderness First Responder) An 80 hour course, half classroom/half hands-on, teaching you how to stabilize and package patients with serious injuries. Pretty much the same topics as below, but it takes them far beyond a WFA. Students completing this course know that they can confidently help someone with a medical emergency. Lots of hands-on time with patients in the field (non-urban environment), plus practical tests assessing, treating and packaging patients in a wilderness setting. WFA (Wilderness First Aid) A two day class that serves as a refresher (recertification) to existing WFRs or provides an introductory class to people with no wilderness first aid education. Day 1 * Emergency Management * Patient Assessment * Musculoskeletal Injuries * Splinting * Dislocations Day 2 * Soft Tissue Injuries * Shock * Diabetes * Head Injuries * Heat and Cold Related Illness * Asthma and Anaphylaxis

I don't recall seeing any poisen oak on blowout. However, that rats nest of bushes 60' up are still there waiting to tangle your ropes when you rap off. Happens every time. I forgot to mention the blackberry nuisance. The base of Blowout has a tangle of the shit and there are itty bitty ones at the start of SE. Beacon has absolutely gone to shit. I'm heading back to the zone for real climbing.

There is a wasp nest on Jill's 10' from the first rap station (5' above the last pin). Put my fingers in a hold and out come a bunch of 'em. Buzzing around my neck and head. Scared the crap out of me. They spared me from bites. While I'm swatting at wasps my partner observed a guy coming up SE, panting and struggling. On the traverse after passing through Snag the guy hurls three times right on the traverse path. I wonder how many ropes dragged through it this weekend. Nasty The Beacon Peregrines were dive bombing and squawking all day Saturday. Good to see them there. I don't mind waiting for them to fledge. They were there long before humans decided to take up rock climbing. We got in some great pitches as well.

The first technical pitch now has 4 perhaps 5 fixed pins, and the second pitch has 3 or 4. Combined with a gear placement here and there the runouts have been minimized. Tim lead the second pitch on just three placements. He added a pin on lead 10' off the anchor and another further up the pitch while rapping down. Hence the softening of the original R rating.

Tim gave me a copy a few weeks ago. It is nothing like any crag or mountain guide I've seen before. It is chuck full R, X and sketchy aid rated climbs that will constrict the sphincter of the boldest adventurer. I counted approx 40 technical climbs and 20 some odd scramble/hikes, enough to keep you busy and well worth the modest cost.

July 16, 2009 Mt Hood: Razorblade Pinnacle: Machete Oregon and SW Washington climbers are conditioned to travel afar to the north, south and east for alpine rock. The Washington Cascades, California Sierras, and Idaho Sawtooths are the primary destinations. However, right in our back yard, on the peak that we disdain the crowds, criticize the noobies and voyeuristically consume the sensational media events, is an isolated alpine rock gem. The Razorblade is only a 1.5 hour drive from Portland and a 2.5 hour approach, yet few humans have walked on the summit. The summit register, placed during the first ascent in ’93, has only 12 entries in it. The pinnacle has seen a few more ascents, (Wayne’s name is not in the register although he has an A4 test piece on the east face and a pic of his butt while he is on Gilette is in PRC 1st edition). Razorblade pinnacle’s south face from the south fork of the Muddy. Machete is just left of center. Gillette is the left skyline. Tim Olson took Kyle Lehman and I on one of his adventurous climbs. It has been 7 years since Tim last climbed the pinnacle. On this climb he was on a mission to photo the pinnacle and put us to work doing chores. We freshened up the existing bolted rappel anchors with new rings and webbing. Plus we removed the old tangles of tat. All three of us were tapping holds as we climbed, tossing off potential lead wippers and belay bombs. Aside from these, the rock is surprisingly good for Mt Hood rock standards. Looking up west prow and Gillette (10b) from the base. Clean and solid. Anchor chores. Looking west down the North and South forks of the Muddy. Although the climbing is moderate, 5.8ish, the character of the climb keeps your attention peaked. The first and second pitches are a bit run out, the edges are sandy, and the Larkspur, Indian Paintbrush and heather draping the rock makes for adventurous climbing. Gear placements are minimal due to the compact nature of the rock on the south face. Less than 5 passive gear placements were used throughout our climb. Tim softened up the R rating by adding a few extra pins on the 1st and 2nd pitches. Kyle on pitch 1 Vertical garden climbing Summit lunch. Kyle and I. How to get there Drive Lolo Pass road to FS Rd 1825 and park at the Top Spur trailhead. A plastic shitter conveniently located there. The approach 2.5 to 3 hours Hike about two miles of trail (Top Spur trail to trail #600 towards Timberline) until it meets the north fork of Muddy creek. Cross both the north and south forks of Muddy creek, (look for flagging to cross the north fork, use a large dead tree for the south fork), ascend creek boulders on the south edge of the south fork for a half mile or more then cross the creek again to it’s north edge when the pinnacle is directly above you to the northeast. Exit the drainage and ascend up sketchy hard packed dirt slopes to the southwest base of the pinnacle. Gear Minimal rack. A few nuts, and couple of cams to 1.5 Boots ease the sketch factor on hard pack dirt. In Closing Thanks Tim for sharing your knowledge and the adventure. Gillette is now on the must do list. And to all… Avoid the Ozone crowds and forego the Beacon rock closure banter and climb something different for a change. It is well worth the effort.

Good luck with the move Jim. I'd help with the move, but I'm out of town for a month.

Roommate is moving out this week, so the upstairs of my house is vacant. North Portland area Close to Max and bus lines Nice house in an good neighborhood PM me for details Pete

Mostly climbed stuff like this in the Wallows Steve took me cragging once. We did a two pitch gear climb not far from Wallow lake. Good rock, some moss, chains on top. I do not remember the name of it. Steve established it a few years back.

Hey Chris, Is Meadows management going to discuss the merits of using a howitzer to control slides at the event?

Nice job on the climb and good to meet you guys. That was myself (Pete) and Bill camped in the basin on your descent. Due to the incredibly low temp Sunday night/Monday morning, we could not muster up the enthusiasm to get out of the tent in the wee hours of the morning. The low in Newhalem was -9 that night. In the basin, who knows how cold it got. Far too cold for our hands to operate. By 10am we were in the Newhalem store eating hotdogs. As you said when we chatted at our camp, going car to car is a good strategy for Colonial, especially when the temps are so friggin low. Plus, when the snow pack is solid, the approach to the lower cliff band does not take that long.

Very sad day on Hood. Condolences to the surviving husband, family and friends. The accident happened quite some time prior to the rescue call (10:15am) because her husband had to down climb to her, he then administered CPR for a period of time until another climbing party came along and called it in. Her fall ended just west of the Hogs Back in the fumarole flats at around 10,500', so the ice fall occurred somewhere above that. KATU reported a 400' fall. A team of around 12 PMR volunteers preformed the recovery, Timberline provided snowcat services and the Clackamas county sheriff coordinated the rescue. No choppers involved. It was balmy warm at T-line around noon. However, it was considerably colder (upper 20's to lower 30's) at the Hogs back mid afternoon. There was minimal ice fall for the hour or so I was up there. Just a few small waves of kitty litter. What happened in the morning was unfortunate timing leading to a terrible accident.

The forecast calls for an inversion (not the IPA). It will be colder in Portland the next couple of nights than up at Timberline. Very sad. Night time lows Portland Thur 30 Fri 30 Sat 37 Timberline Thur 32 Fri 32 Sat 33

PSU is hosting a Level 1 AIARE avalanche seminar February 6-8th. For info call the PSU Outdoor Program 503-725-5668

The safest time to climb is while you are staring at your computer. The potential for leader, rock, or ice fall or an avi is greatly minimized. Actually, with the shit ton of snow recently, the strong winds and their corny formations and the forecasted pinnapple express about to hit, slide potential will remain high. In the least it will suk to slog up there so why even consider it. Pray to the weather god for a long term high pressure system.

Been cooped up for the past 2-3 days. Corvallisclimbs has been staying at my place all week for ice play. But with I84 and Hwy14 shut down, we can't even get into the Gorge. This suks! The bamboo is not getting on well with the ice. At least Butch is having a good time