johnny

chalk + blood = blood gravy. Yummy!!!!

Sounds like a fun trip!! Your gear comments made me smile as they describe Moore's Wall Quartzite exactly: Tricams, small offsets and lots of TCU's (I never, ever placed a 00 until I climbed here!) I hope the get up that way sometime this summer....... Congrats on a great trip!

If you are willing to mail them to North Carolina (I'd pay shipping of course!!) I would love to purchase your TCU's one can never have too many of the little buggers out here!!! e-mail me at john.iverson@ncmail.net Thanks, John PICK ME!! OOOOH OOOOH OOOOH PICK ME!!!!!

Oldman- I climb pretty frequently at bouldering gym put together by Jim Horton of Houndears fame here in NC and there is one constant that makes it the best indoor climbing I have ever experienced: BIG SLOPERS. no tendon unfriendly crimpers or rails, just long throws to big fat slopey holds on a steep wall. Works your core and contact strength without stressing anything else. NOTHING sucks more than injuring yourself while climbing INDOORS!!!!!! IMHO.

Like many of you I have really, REALLY enjoyed this site. Now that I live on the other coast it is a great place to go when I find myself missing all the clouds and drizzle while I put on more sunscreen......did I say miss, what I meant to say was dimly remembered............... Few people seem to want to mention names but I have also recieved violent e-mails from this person (IF it is who has been mentioned) I have pissed a few people off here, who hasn't? But these were definately over the line. I did not save any of them but if they linger on in some deep, dark cc.com archive, then they could be useful if this were to take a legal spin?...?....? Jon and Timmy rock and I am sure I speak for everyone here when I say if you need assistance, all you need to do is ask. Peace, John

Boone, you Rock!....I was the son, you know, the younger, better looking one. Glad you liked the steps across the glacier! Stuart really kicked our asses!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My father and I didn't get up the ridge quite as fast as you but the climb was absolutely stellar nonetheless Was especially cool for me for two reasons as I grew up out there but now live in North Carolina; I was just out in Wash as a tourist Other and perhaps more important reason was being able to do such a beautiful climb with my dad....Old man is 60 and I still can barely keep up with him!!!! I'm just lucky I guess.

Can you sleeze by without crampons on the traverse between Goat Pass and the ridge? In approach shoes? Also, anybody bivy on the summit? I was there 20 years ago....that was pre-wake-n-bake so my memory is a bit fuzzy....are there any good spots up there or should one plan to nap down lower?

Thanks guys, just been checking some of the things you recommended in the guidebook and am getting pretty psyched!!!!! Ivan, there is no ultra wanker division. It's just that many of the people I've met and climbed with here in NC are leading stuff that I can barely or just plain can't follow. (and very likely never will!) Puts things in about as much perspective as one can take! I can't think of a better way to improve though!!!!!

Finally got my Summer vacation plans worked out and I have 3-4 days to play in Squamish in July. I have been there once before (did Diedre and a day at Smoke Bluffs) but I want to do more long moderate stuff this time. Any of you Canadian or wanna-be Canadians have any must do's in the 8 to 10- range? St Vitus and Sunblessed sound awsome but Sunblessed would be right at my leading limit so is a bit intimidating but looks too cool to skip! (can you say French free ) Also.....where is some of the bouldering I have heard hinted at in the area?? Any ideas would be hugely appreciated!

Hey, thanks for the info.... Erik, when you say Apex mine, is that close to Apex pass? All I have so far is the lame map in the guide and it shows a Tungsten mine across the creek from Apex pass, is that it? Sounds like a pretty cool place to spend a few days!

Was wondering if anyone here had done any of the South face routes on Cathedral or the Monk? Is there a shorter approach than the Boundry trail's 20 miles or so? I'm planning a visit in late August and have been drooling over the info in the Becky guide. Thought I'd ask you guys since you lucky bastards still live over there! Thanks, John

Did it on the Daddy in Linville Gorge with my girl. There are a couple of expansive ledges several pitches up....Wait, was it Did my girl on the Daddy? or Did the Daddy on my girl? I am not so sure anymore.....It was quite fun though!

A kayaker friend of mine once said to use Massengale (sp?) douches for all your odor problems. not sure about shoe applications...... "If it can handle the funk, then it can handle your junk!"

But wait, if you call now theres more......Sauratown (sport, mixed), Crowders (everything) Rumbling Bald (bouldering, trad, bolts), Cedar Mtn.(scary bolted), Green Mtn.(even scarier bolted), Hawksbill (steep gear), Likely more cragging here than just about anywhere! Rick, drop me a line, our little "Tuesday Night Climbers" club will be meeting this tuesday (19th At 7:30pm) at the Childrens Home wall in W-S. Membership is quite exclusive, some hazing and other humiliating antics may be required......Might actually do a little plastic pulling too.

bolt clipper.....question.....The Sierra piece, was it a gore-tex or other laminate or was it a breathable coating? That makes a huge difference in its cost, not to mention its overall performance and longevity. I have a Precip and it is great but does not really breath too well and it is just not going to last, but it is only coated. The Theta and the Marmot piece I belive are both Gore's new XCR, the Theta being a 3 layer one at that. They might cost more but a good 3 layer piece will likely outlast you.......even if it don't pack down too well. Apples and banannas????

I'd climb with you except I am headed to Abbingdon with the kids to clip bolts this weekend.....Hey sharpless, where do you live? I am currently in Walkertown, a cozy half hour from moores!!!!

Just a thought.....You guys seem to have lots to say about horsecock and snafflehound ball licking but little to say about a 20 y/o young man who lost his life while doing what we all profess to love. This guy could havew been any one of you who ties in and runs it out; except you are blessed with a story to tell later. What the F$*&??????? P.S. He wasn't clipping no bolts either.....

There is some info on the SECC website http://server502.hypermart.net/seclimbers/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?s=3d7e1c8cd42bffff;act=ST;f=1;t=362 It sheds some light on this tragedy. Seems it was a moderate trad line called Bumblebee Buttress on the North Carolina Wall in Linville Gorge. He blew the clip on a piece, fell, the piece below blew out and he hit a ledge. The route is "only" 5.8 and he had apparently been climbing for several years. I've been on this route and it is airy, but quite doable. Peace to all. Be careful out there you guys!!!!!! If the above link won't work, just search the Southeastern Climbers Coalition website and look at the BB

My apologies for the thumbs up icon. There really isn't anything positive about this. I still have the old blue Edilrid helmet that my fathers longtime partner, Walt, died in when he fell on the South side of the Tooth in '76. The styrofoam on one side is completely compressed. Makes you think doesn't it.

On Saturday a 20 year old climber took his last whipper in the Linville Gorge area. According to Winston Salem Journal (RAG!!) he fell while attempting to clip his fifth "pin" after having placed it. The "pin" below him then failed sending him on a long ride. The paper fails to defing "pin", only saying that they were "placed" which leads one to believe they were nailing. Problem is there are very few if any aid lines where he fell and it would be hard to fall 150 (which is reported) feet if your lower 3 pieces of pro held. The article said they were "experienced" climbers but we all know what that could mean!? Just thought you guys should know. I'll post actual details when I learn them. In the meantime, send some positive energy this way and be careful out there this autumn OK?

Perhaps I was a bit longwinded on my last post........... Length of rung spacing??? Width of rungs???? Tension of ladder?? I got the stuff to build one, and was wondering if anyone had any advice/comments??? I got a job interview tomorrow (just found out!) and if I get the hell away from outdoor retail soon I will buy each and every one of you a beer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(after I use the last of my pro-deal possibilities that is!!)

Thanks SK but I already have the cordage and PVC for a bachar ladder, it cost me $25 and a 25 piece set of Franklin holds will cost me $30. That is WITH the pro-deal (I work at a gear store here in Winston Salem. Thats WITHOUT the plywood and T-nuts!!! A wall is definately in my future but If I can get my crank on for under $30 that is what I must do. ANYONE: rung width and spacing advice??? workout length; duration, reps etc????

Yes I have space for a pretty cool indoor wall but that costs more than I have right now!!!!!

I'm suffering from "really want to get out but have too much stuff to do" syndrome. Work, kids, yard, kids, car maintenence, kids, are keeping me from climbing as much as I want to. Not an overwhelming problem but as most of the rock out here (North carolina) is so steep I find myself underprepared for the long reaches and lockoffs necessary to climb even the moderates when I actually find myself ouside on real rock, desperately wishing I had enough strength to hang on while I fiddle another nut in. Strung myself a slackline, got a hangboard on order, but want to build a Bachar ladder. I got 120 feet of 7mm and some 1.25 PVC but wondered if y'all had any ideas/advice on rung spacing and distance???? I have read that nipple to reach length/2 is good,(reach for every other rung) or shorter to begin with. How wide should I make the rungs??? Peanut gallery???? Help???

Ramen, Ramen, Ramen. OK so it sustains life. OK so I have practically lived off the stuff at various times in my life. But you guys have to give it up for the venerable Mac and cheese with a little fresh caught tuna thrown in. All you need is water and a can opener and WALLAH!!! A veritable cornicopia of gustatory delight. Be aware, it may not be legal in some states.