savaiusini

I bought a Bombshelter back in '98 in preparation for a trip to the Alaska Range. Used it the summer and spring before the trip and was not impressed for what seems to be the same reasons as you. Stitching, seam-tape, door size (too small), velcro, you name it. Fortunately, I was able to sell it before it got too hammered. There is not much point in having a tent like that if you can't put it through the wringger! I ended up buying a TNF VE-25 instead and I'm able to use it hard and it still looks pretty new. While it is a bit heavier, it is SO MUCH more versatile.

ditto...coulda dun it, but didn't wanna get that medevil on it.

Ted, I too was out there last weekend with intentions of doing the face in a day. Here's a brief synapsis... Left car: 7:30am Got to Boston Basin: 9:00 Boston/Sahale Col via Queen Sloppy: 10:30 Looking towards Buckner, it appeared the NFace was melted out for about 300ft, about 2/3 of the way up. We couldn't tell for sure so we climbing traversed out to the Boston Glacier on the fairly loose-but-beaten path behind Boston peak (Boston would have been an easy climb if we'd have had a bit of rock pro). To get to the Face, we would have had to pick our way down end running around roughly 20 gapers and losing way too much elevation to get to a clean line that would lead to the base of the face. Once we were out on the Boston a way, we could clearly see that the Face was melted out as we had suspected (I prefer to call this "partial-frontal nudity"). We had binocs so we were sure~! This was also later confirmed by a fellow we met on top of Sahale who had flown over 3 weeks ago and saw the melt out. At the base of the face, there were 3 full width 'schrunds to deal with, only one of which looked passable. If you get that far, the bombardment of rock from above would surely poop you into the 'schrunds. If one were able to live this far, then and only then would you reach 400 ft of nice blue/gray 50deg. ice to the top. Bottom line: we came prepared for a stiff ice route, but this was going to be a lot more than we wanted to get into. After getting back to the Col, we ate a leisurely lunch, scoped out a forest fire in the Stehekin drainage (we could actually see the flames!) and traversed over the top of Sahale, rapped down the south side and hiked out to Cascade Pass via Sahale arm. Maybe next year? Get it done by late-July and it should be pretty straight forward. Hope this helps, Sam

Back in '97 I went to Canada to get LASIK surgery. $1200 bucks got both eyes done. I was 20/200 in my GOOD eye before the surgery; extremely nearsighted. Now both eyes see 20/15. It was absolutely the best money I've ever spent! Quick, almost painless, instant gratification. I know several others who've had it done and they've had great results as well. If you can, look into it. Free consults will determine if you are eligible for the surgery, mainly whether your cornea is thick enough to work on. I know this won't help you in the short term for your course, but I'm definitely a believer now. Best of luck whatever you do! [This message has been edited by savaiusini (edited 07-19-2001).]

Does anybody have any current info on the approach and route? Muchas gracias! Sam

quote: Originally posted by jrwclimbs: Anyone been up there lately? Thanks! Jeremy, Bill was up there again. Other than the valley being a little shwacky, the route was in good shape. That was about 2 weeks ago. Sam

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: Thanks, is that the new ski lodge? Yes, the White Salmon Lodge. If you are choosing to head up the valley, be mindful of avalanches off of Shuksan Arm and the White Salmon. This should be a good weekend for it!

Hey, that's the first detailed beta I've gotten for the area this season. Sounds like you had primo conditions, Tim. When I was there, our big concern was avy conditions, so we thought it was better under the circumstances, to head down to the moraine rather than traverse. At any rate, Ice Lakes or the prescription in Jim's book are probably better choices than what our group did, oh well. Jim: I certainly wouldn't change the book's description by much at all. There's more than one way to skin a cat. From listening to the folks here, there can be justification for choosing any approach. -Sam

quote: Originally posted by pms: Correction on that. I meant to say Maude/Seven Fingered Jack. not Maude/Fernow. Jim Jim, My experience one the descent from the col may be different from others', but I thought the "better" line was to descend pretty much straight down from the col. We were there last year in late May and even then there was some cliff negotiation. Our original intent was to traverse as depicted in your book, but we found this to be problematic. Please don't take my prior remark personally: "...could get someone hurt." It was only a figure of speech given the sense of urgency we felt given the days avy conditions. The ice lakes approach from Leroy could be a better option. -Sam

Pencil Pusher, Man, people take things a bit too literally here. My wording was merely a figure of speech. Don't you think it was "responsible" of me to call attention to the route issue? So, it is up to YOU decide what to do with your info, whether it be from a book or some honest guy on a messege board filled with 50% crap and 50% good info. Furthermore, I am not making any judgements about Nelson as an author. I am merely reporting what friends of Jim's said about the description. To be more clear, the higher traverse described in the book had some serious exposure when we were there and actually ended in a cliff still quite far from the face. I couldn't agree with you more; it is the climber's responsibilty to interpret the info that they get on their own. No one should be led by the hand.

quote: Originally posted by philfort: That guy in vertical limit had a nice system - his big SLR just attached, with a satisfying click, right onto his harness. I prefered watching it bust into a thousand pieces when it hit the ground!

quote: Originally posted by dbb: my guess is not this year. Assuming that things are a month+ ahead of schedule it is probably melting out as we speak. I heard that last year large parts of it melted down to rock. With this low snow year I'd bet those will be emerging pretty soon. on another note, has anyone around here done the infamous descent (on feet) from the Maude-Jack col? what about ascent? YES! I have done it. And it goes nothing like what's described in Nelson's 2nd book. We ran into friends of his on our climb and they said he has not even done the climb. How he's describing it in the book could get someone hurt. From the col, the best way is to descend straight down from the col and not to traverse. This was last year, and we found that the N Face climax avalanced from the top. Looked like oreo cookies ice cream. UGLY!

quote: Originally posted by glennm: Has anyone skied the N. Face of Maude? Looks as if it could go early season. I'm not sure, but think it has seen a descent. Early season is the time for sure. Me and a buddy have been eyeing that face for a ski descent for a couple years. For some reason we haven't gotten around to it yet. I've been on the route and it would ski about like NF Shuksan although Maude seems a bit steeper at the top.

Any one been up there recently we're looking to do either the N. Face of Maude or the Entiat Icefall.

quote: Originally posted by JERRY SANCHEZ: HOW DID YOU GET TO LIBERTY RIDGE ROUTE ON MAY 12TH WHEN WHITE RIVER ROAD WAS STILL CLOSED??? Maybe he was cool and rode a bike from the gate to the campground. That's what I'd do.

Yes everyone, I am well aware of the masses on the weekends and how to avoid them since it is hard for some of us 9-5ers to get weekdays off. I was merely trying to quantify it. I was not looking for the barrage that followed. Although it ended-up pretty funny, I think. Napalm

the flamethrower idea sounds great! that should also glaze the route nicely once it refreezes. you'd just have to pick your way through the chunks of singed smart-asses.

simple question...simple answer. That's all I am asking, you high and mighty snoots.

have a nice day jackasses! [This message has been edited by savaiusini (edited 05-29-2001).]