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rat

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Everything posted by rat

  1. a long shot.... i am looking for one or two wire heel lifts for a pair of silvretta 400 bindings. lifts from 300's or 404's will also work. thanks.
  2. i know you said alpine rock hammer but the compact third tool listed below is hard to beat for alpine rock routes in the cascades and other areas where summer glacier travel is relatively easy. charlet moser used to make a similar but lighter item. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grivel-Ice-Axe-/272435621311?hash=item3f6e6dadbf:g:WiQAAOSwUEVYENvr (length isn't listed but the shorter the better -- i think the shortest is 43cm)
  3. waited with the hoi polloi for this. very gneiss. you make the bushwacking sound like work, almost. luckily, most of the cascades look like munge from a distance. it keeps the riff raff away.
  4. it may be one of the steepest faces but jackasses know how to avoid the steeps when heading for the barn. had i been climbing a bit more this summer, eric wouldn't have had to bivy on the face. it's probably just a grade IV if both partners are climbing decently. but getting back to the base took about another 6 hours (very impressive first ascent by beckey et. al.) a direct route up the face would be likely require a bolt kit and/or some aid. the corner systems there looked pretty welded.
  5. aluminum poles (slightly bent) originally from a bibler i-tent. turn into an aid cheater stick or makeshift stick clip? old ropes only suitable for boats, rugs, dogs, etc. approx. dimensions: one 10mm x 60m one 10mm x 100' two 10mm x 40-50' can meet/drop off in the seattle area. send a pm.
  6. we were there last summer and there were no access restrictions. see the info in johnsonjj22's 7/22/11 and 1/12/12 posts. it is valid. park on the highwayat the olympic discovery trail head, walk that trail to the powerline, turn left down the powerline road, turn right on a distinct trail and follow that past the bearing trees. turn left at the next side trail and follow it to the gully above the cliff. take care. at that time, there were lots of corroded bolts/hangers but the more traveled routes were retro-fitted.
  7. sol's "even easier" method, a one 'biner backup through one bolt hanger, would twist the rope in the system and put all the load on one bolt. i agree with montypiton. with that method, one can also oppose carabiners or add a locker for redundancy. also, those are quick links not cold shuts. their working load limit, depending on diameter, can be be less than the carabiner attached to them.
  8. at this time of year, looking at heliotrope ridge reports on turns all year can be fruitful. this is from 10/17/15 but gets my point across: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=34646.0
  9. cool. i was wondering about that buttress when a friend and i climbed ragged edge earlier this summer. seems like that cirque might have another line or two. cascadian "plaisir" climbing...
  10. pins (kb & shallow smc angle in this case) not strictly necessary but you would then need to belay a bit lower and potentially climb together a bit more on p5. i'm sure you could work it out one way or another. yes, tom did a fa on the northeast face of storm mountain. he, ken wallator and third also skied to mt. clemenceau, did a fa and skied out in 3 weeks during february back in the '80's.
  11. take your ad hominem attack to spray.
  12. i believe dan was on the early attempts but not the fa. klewin and bibler got the first complete ascent. dan's brother, pat, was on the second complete ascent.
  13. awesome. that might be the first complete ascent (i.e. to the summit) of that face. it is possible that cal and partner climbed the north ridge (see wayne's tr from a year or two ago).
  14. ne ridge is a classic for the rockies. your risk tolerance was on the wane. the japanese route might actually be safer in winter.
  15. old and older #3 and #4 rigid stem friends. well used. #4's (2) -- $15 each obo #3 (1) -- $10 obo #3 with frayed wire -- $5 obo old modular stubai rock hammer (round hammer head). $10 obo. drop off or pick up in seattle or you pay postage.
  16. marko and i climbed a couple 2-3 pitch wi 2-3/3+ routes at the end of the money creek road yesterday. north facing...no sun. the rightmost route, up the creek just prior to the damon mine, was nicest and only 10 minutes from the pickup. bushwacking took us leftward to an even easier rambling route. bring 2 ropes or expect some relatively thorny bushwacking on the descents. potential exists for more easy routes here. there are also some shorter but harder looking pillars quite a ways up the south facing drainages of money creek that were deteriorating. goat basin was also holding ice but we didn't suss out which route was which. added a few of marko's photos. probably gone and/or buried for this season but those looking for easy routes close to the car might put it on the back burner for next year. overview pitch 2 bring 2 ropes to avoid this
  17. i'm looking for a couple gas jets, marked "xg" for a pre-shaker jet xgk. if you have any of these ancient bits just lying around, let me know what you want for them. thanks.
  18. you're either a youngster or your taste in wine was/is too high brow. i make no assumption regarding your taste in ladies' underwear, so to speak. http://www.bumwine.com/ don't forget the venerable gallon jugs of "yosemite road" for road trips to the ditch. rip.
  19. thanks for the emotional beat down, mike. gonna have a good cry and go to my healing place now..... hope all is well in new yawk.
  20. Trip: burgundy spire - annie green springs Date: 9/13/2014 Trip Report: a bit of info about this neglected, wandering but worthwhile route: 1. the direct approach up the paisano/burgundy gully is probably not the best approach. someone placed a relatively new shit show bolt on the slab left of the big chockstone mentioned in the cag. we tunneled under the chockstone from the right. the best approach is via a hidden gully located right of the toe of burgundy's west butt. this would take you easily and directly to the top of the chockstone. 2. 3+ pitches up and rightward (as shown on the cag topo, not leftward as mentioned in the text) lead to the sandy ledge/gully. take the cleanest cracks--quite good climbing if you can overlook the somewhat treed nature of the surrounding area. 3. 2 pitches rising leftward to the right side of the big roof. not the best. perhaps better to do one more pitch directly above the sandy ledge then traverse? 4. up nice layback crack/slab then traverse far left. continue up a pitch to near the top of the greenery. very fine hands/fist crack up to square roof then hand traverse left to crest. 5. directly up crest for full pitch. continue to ridge jct above (sw ridge?) and climb a varied pitch along left side of crest directly over the summit.
  21. i know the area but not the crag. found a farming operation not too far away some years ago. cougars aren't the only thing of which to be wary in that neighborhood. dresden-like. the swauk/mission gang must have tired of their shit-show bolting. have fun. never know, briody might have beat you to it.
  22. you professionals are so needy: dave cheesmond's north twin crack gloves. photo by barry blanchard during this insignificant little jaunt http://www.barryblanchard.ca/northtwin
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