plexus
-
Posts
893 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by plexus
-
-
I've done Loomis in the winter. Great fun climb... if there is snow. Unfortunately all the snow melted before we climbed it and was stuck with steep, dead hellebore that was frozen stiff.
Fun times included rappelling the vertical forest by headlamp. Great views of Baker from there.
-
Absolutely beautiful guys. I hope you two cherish the memory of the trip for a long time.
Steph, what lens did you use for your shots? I'm figuring since you were trying to go light as possible, you just brought a 55 mm? Also did you use a hard walled case to protect your camera?
Thanks
-
I'd be curious to see statistics on avalanche fatalities of skiers/boarders killed in out of bounds areas accessed by lifts vs true backcountry
I can only tell you what that has been like this season in Colorado. Out of the six avalanche fatalities, three were true backcountry (including a snowmobiler) and two were actually in-bounds but in closed areas.
We have had a scary layer-cake snowpack this season, so much so that I have been playing it very conservative.
My condolences to all the friends and families of the victims. One of the victims is known to us here in 'rado.
-
Nearly spit out my beer laughing when I read this.
...not realizing he’d gone out, tried to wake the lump I thought was him yelling “we have visitors!” -
Very nice. I was on top Ruth Mtn exactly 10 years ago. Very surreal day.
-
Awesome trip.
I have to ask, do you just know everything flora and fauna under the sky or do you look it all up afterwards? I feel like I've been reading Natl Geo whenever I read your TRs. And I mean that in a good way!
-
That was a full-value day you got. You're guaranteed not to see anybody up there. I remember years ago bashing around for a couple of hours trying to find that "trail". Spooked a big bear. He spooked me as well.
And you're right, Hagen Peak is pretty awesome.
-
I bouldered for the first time in 2 months and for the first time since I had a tight capsule and two muscles fixed in my right shoulder.
I was weak, my balance was crap and I have girly skin on my fingers.
But the shoulder did not hurt or make any funny noises. Hurray for small miracles!
-
It is hard to find words to describe the loss that myself and so many people are feeling right now, I do not think these words exist.
Dallas taught me so many things about life and about climbing. He was my mentor, together we shared over 100 summits together over the last 15 years. I did not have a clue about alpinism until I hooked up with Dallas.
No one moved through the mountains like Dallas Kloke. He passed on his skills through example, there was no ego or spray with Dallas, he was what a climber should be. Never afraid to take the sharp end and get things done, these are skills that only a lifetime of pushing hard in the North Cascades can teach you. Dallas Kloke was the man.
As devastated as I am at this loss I am also honored to have been with him on his last day in the mountains. My heart goes out to his family and all the great friends he leaves behind. Thanks to the compassion and the professionalism of the Whatcom County sheriffs department and the Whatcom and Skagit county SAR.
The mountains will never be the same without you Dallas.
I think you put it best to all of us who were lucky enough to have climbed/scrubbed routes/explored and camped with Dallas.
-
I'm still too shocked and numb to share anything about a man whose passion for all aspects of life should be emulated by all of us.
-
Funny because when I first read the post, the Pasayten is exactly what came to mind. You can definitely play with the rope on Lost and Lake peaks. Beautiful area and when I spent 4 days up there, we didn't see a soul.
-
5-10 & 165 lbs.
173 K2 Shuksans with Pure Performance bindings. Love them but you can get bounced around pretty good on Sustrugi on those guys. However I love the touring ability vs performance level these skis equilibrate.
If I could add another ski to the quiver, I would go get something a little fatter; would help on the Colorado powder days.
[img:left]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EcJ-vCIJrIw/SfjOPMkWgII/AAAAAAAABWM/AmrFvQvvqzg/s1600-h/DSCN0953.JPG[/img]
-
I feel like I need to hand in my touring skis and ice axes now.
Amazing feat guys. Absolutely beautiful shots. Can't wait to see the portfolio of photos.
-
Very pretty. Funny but some of the most picturesque ski tours I have done ended up having the worst ski conditions at the time. I guess you do have to pay one way or another.
Sucks about the Sno-Park ticket. You can fight it though.
-
Thanks for the find. Helped inspire me.
-
As usual, great pics Steph. And you missed your calling as a TV producer with your teases to get people to click on to your Web site to see more photos and read the TR.
-
I spent two weeks on Virgin Gorda. Most definitely take your shoes. Two weeks of bouldering, snorkeling when you get too warm, more bouldering, etc.; and followed with lots of drinking at the little hut at the top of the trail down to The Baths.
You'll love it. I believe I have a couple of pics from there posted in my gallery.
-
When I decided to get into randonee, I went old school and found a pair of better Kua skis with some Silvretta 404 bindings. The idea was to ski in mtneering boots and then climb with them. It was cheap and I felt i would have no remorse if I completely destroyed the skis or bindings.
I suffered through that for a year before upgrading to Shuksans mounted with Pure Freestyles and bought a pair of Scarpa Tornados. I went with the Tornados because I was able to justify to my significant other at the time, I can ski in alpine bindings with them to, hence a dual purpose.
I love the skis and find the boots to be so-so. I have climbed (and downclimbed) 4th-class rock in them and never did I feel comfortable in it. But I survived.
My advice is if you're looking only at moderate snow or ice, lean towards the ski side. It will be more fun -- and more likely safer for your ACLs. If you then want to climb hard, then either carry in your climbing boots, which I know a lot of people who do, or go on snowshoes.
-
So to the peak baggers then, is it the journey or the summit?
The other day I climbed the West Ridge of Pacific Peak here in Colorado. Went out and did the scrambling part -- which wasn't nearly as nice as I would have thought. I was about 2/3 of the way up the ridge when it turns into a talus slog.
The fun being over and not really interested in tagging a summit, I downclimbed the ridge. Had a great day, didn't feel the need to tag a summit. I rarely do have that urge unless it's fun climbing most of the way to the top or if the views are going to be that much better up there.
-
You guys were cruising. I'm impressed by your 4-hour time. You definitely have your lead switches and route finding dialed in. Though it sounds like everything magically unfolded the way you could have hoped in getting to the megadihedral.
The mountain looks like great granite. I guess the haul in is the price you have to pay to get to some incredible rock in the Cascades.
Did you do a combo of downclimbing/shortroping and rappelling down the ridge or just downclimbing?
-
A lot less snow than the time I ran up that with Scott and Dallas. How active was that face shedding snow when you guys were climbing up the gully?
-
Friggin gorgeous pics! I need to stay away from this site this time of year because it makes me really miss the Cascades.
Been dying to get some alpine action but the wx is going to be crap the next two days. Mtn biking on the western slope it is then.
-
Glad you were a spectator and not a participant in that slab releasing. How far away were you from the shear point? Was it at point of contact or was it a remote trigger?
-
I don't know what there is to complain about. No, there are no glaciers here. But I've gotten more climbing in during the past four months than I would during a summer in the Cascades.
There is some really good alpine out here too, you just need to know where to look and stay off the 14ers.
[TR] Dakobed Traverse (Glacier peak finish) - 3/31/2013
in the *freshiezone*
Posted
Awesome report, awesome trip. And double bonus points for your partner having K2 Shuksans like me!!