climbingjosh

Didn't look good, for us the snow/ice was real hard, only short sections of kick steeping. It also looked like there may have been some slides thru the chute. Couldn't really say for sure, maybe it softens up lower.

Climbed Gib ledges 2/22 - 2/23. Found lots of hard snow and ice. The ledges had very hard snow all of the way across, the two sections that are climbed, were hard ice (only front points). Gib Chute, was variable, front pointing with a bit of kick stepping. From Camp comfort again we had changing snow, from short knee-deep sections, to lots of hard snow/ice. We descended the Ingraham and found more ice. 3 or 4 sections, between 10 and 40 feet, front points again, down climbing 35-45 degrees. A lot of the ice was dinner plating. Overall route finding was fairly straightforward. Between 13,000 and 11,000 ft on the descent there were some tricky sections. Lots of small slivers, and a few large crevasses.

Beck- From a first hand witness, the fires were started by lightning. My party was in the enchantments when the lightning storm went over and struck the ridge above icicle canyon, and the snow creek area. Its funny how things get twisted to blame a group that someone doesn't like????

Anyone been on Early Morning Spire recently? Looking for approach info... probably via Eldorado creek. Many thanks!

Great job Steven! Was the Stuart Glacier a problem? Did you need to use crampons? Thanks

Daniel finally made it into our climbing plans. We climbed Cathedral rock on the way in. Then climbed the SE ridge form Peggy's pond. No snow until about 1000ft below the E peak. We had hard snow from there on. We used our crampons, but carried a rope and glacier gear to the summit

As of July 10th, the route is still in great condtion. The cornice is no longer a problem, however the slots are starting to open up, only a few inches. Our party was able to escape the weather that got Boston basin and much of the surrounding areas.

No, we decided to stay in town while the weather was threatening.

Anyone have info on the Daniel Glacier route. Looking to do it next Tuesday, current route info would be grand.