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slaphappy

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    Any thoughts about the 18V Makita Rotary Hammer

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Don't know about the Makita but have logged some time w/a Bosch 11536c. Weighs a bit over 6lbs, 36v and got mine for $399 w/2 batteries. (Throw it in your Amazon cart and check regularly, its currently at $499 but does fluctuate.) I get 12-15 3/8 holes in Levy "granite". It's so light you can actually drill a hole above your head not just chest high. They offer a 3ah battery for $200 but I haven't found the need for the extra juice, if there is any question, I just make my partner carry the 2nd battery.

     

    I have used/owned many roto hammers and this is by far the lightest and best for the $.

     

    You won't be disappointed.

    Yikes - major avalanche near Steven's Pass 3 gone

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    These guys were as good as good gets. I new them well and feel lucky to have spent as much time in and out of the mountains as I have. Another huge loss to Leavenworth.

     

    Seems we have had a real string of misfortune over the last year or so with the passing of Joe Puryear, Dan Zimmerman, Ian Mynatt, Chris Rudolf, Jim Jack, and Johnny Brenan.

     

    So sad...

    LEAVENWORTH Avalanche Fatality

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I can't even express the sense of loss I'm feeling right now. Dan was the best partner you could ever dream of having on any pursuit. I truly loved the "little guy". We will miss him greatly. The Icicle will never be the same with out you...

     

    Here's to you buddy :brew:

     

    -Ron Cotman

    Index is hard

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Best way to climb 5.10 at Index:

     

    Drive by and head to Leavenworth for a long weekend. Day one do S Face of Jello Tower, Damnation, Scary Canary, The Bone, and Crack of Doom at Castle Rock. Day two go to Careno crag and do The Regular Route, third pitch of BK, Pocketmeister, Swingn Affair, and Exotic Dancer. Day three go to Pearly Gates and do all ten or so 5.9s and 10-. Realize there are far more quality 5.10 climbs in Leavenworth and go back to Index when you can lead 5.11. :brew:

    [TR] The Mole - North Face 6/5/2010

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Nice! The right hand crack has been done at least a few times albeit a bit dirtier/harder. The ticks have been terrible this year due to the cooler/wetter spring. I have been bit 4 times and have pulled seemingly hundreds off myself and the pooch since February.

    [TR] Three O'Clock Rock - Revolver 6/13/2010

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Most importantly, your hard work updating outdated/unsafe hardware is greatly appreciated by all.

     

    However I can't help but notice the odd angles and lack of equalization on the three replaced anchors. Would it not be better to either patch the old holes and start from scratch using longer chains (at least on one of the bolts) greatly reducing the force that is nearly doubled when pulling sideways, or reuse only one hole and drill one new one. (using 3 chain links on one and 7 on the other achieves this nicely) Two part epoxy putty works great for filling old or botched holes, comes in a grey granite like color, is available at Lowe's/Home Depot, and is cheap. Bringing both 3/8 and 1/2 in. quicklinks also helps making small adjustments. The aluminum Omega rings although strong will wear out rather quickly, why not just use cheaper burlier steel chain links?

     

    Once again your efforts are appreciated it just seems it could be done cleaner and better. Please don't take this as negative feedback just an observation on how to possibly improve on an already great thing.

    [TR] Chiwaukum Range - South to North Ski Traverse 1/27/2010

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Nice!!!

     

    Last year two members of the elite "Icicle royalty" and myself did the infamous Chiwaukum Traverse although we included a stretch of Icicle Ridge by starting at Jay Saddle and descending into Index Creek from Ida lake. Due to extreme avy hazards we were unable to complete a number of our objectives, much to my displeasure since I was on a splitboard and was motivated by some of the steeper terrain. I did far more "skiing" than I would have liked although the snowboarding I did was fantastic. Killer views, weather, and company made it an awesome trip.

     

    *Lowell- I would recommend doing it earlier than later by either including the Icicle Ridge or getting a tow. There are many kind locals that would be glad to offer up a ride, myself included. (seriously, if I cant do it, I could put you in contact with someone that could. There are many local avid skiers/boarders that have sleds) We did it late (may?) and caught the trail, hiking out the last three miles to White Pine. The direct descent from Dead Horse Pass would be a far more rewarding finish and well worth the hassle of arranging a tow or the extra day or two by including Icicle Ridge in your trip.

    Snowboard Mountaineering

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    Yall are so yester-year.:rolleyes:

     

    Thankfully the park mentality is infiltrating the bc: modern 2-stroke technology is off the hook, 150+ hp, 163" tracks, the places we can go! and man when DaKine put out that nifty chainsaw pack for mtn bikers- oh the possibilities... all those drops and shots that just didn't have the runouts... poof! Husqavarna has the cure! A handful of 60d's and a mini sledge- endless stunts... a little imagination and lots-o-elbow grease and...

    The bc is the best park ever! I get sweaty palms just thinkn about it! :brew:

     

    Splittys are the shit! It takes 1-5 min to switch over, big deal, why the rush? just enough time to enjoy a cheap headbuster. Spark r&ds/burton driver x's sidehill no prob, and ride/sledneck better than plastics. Venture's extensive board line is the answer to Voile's intermediate dinosaurs.

     

    Man some of you ski fags sound like idiots. Let me guess- yall are ghey-ass teleskiers, scuffing around avoiding absolutely anything difficult, terrified of actually using the fall-line, in search of the endless field of over exagerated hippy-pow "turns"... Why is it yall think skinning is a competition, something to brag about? :poke:

    SMC shallow angles for Trade

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    Well dude, you may not have been a prick then but you certainly are being one now. Super topo and Gadd's site as well.

     

    I have a few buddies that like shallow angles in the alpine as much as I do. So I have coughed up a few to them. Not like you or I will ever use 50+ fucking pins. I've been doing this shit for 30+ years and bet I haven't left 100 total pins between Alaska, the Alps and the Rockies. And I have left at least 5 complete racks, including shoe laces a few times getting off things that I can remember right off hand.

     

    "Weak", dumb ass is having shit you aint using and never will...like the 56 pins you just bought (what, half of them baby angles) or asking for a deal 'cuz you dropped a C note.

     

    I aint selling as you noticed...what I asked was anyone want to trade. That would mean to me, "if you know what a shallow angle is and have need for a couple you look through your own alpine rack, pull out a double or two you could easily replace" and then send me an email. More like a public service to guys who actually know what they are and how they are used. If not, "they aren't here, you don't need them, now move along". But may be trade doesn't mean that to you.

     

    "Betters my take?" Dude they are freakin iron last I checked, shallow angles and hard to find to be sure but none the less pins....made to be over driven, dropped, lost and left. Replacing them one for one on a trade for a used (or new for that matter) pin hardly "betters my take". My plan this week is to leave a fairly long line of fixed pins up 6 or 7 pitches of mixed limestone. So I hardly worry about bettering "my take".

     

    But feel free to stop by the next time you see me out and I'll be happy to show you just how much of a prick I can really be. Till then, unless you see me post a for sale sign on "SMC shallow angles" shut the fuck up.

     

    OMG that is so fuckin awesome!!!

    SMC shallow angles for Trade

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    Huh? Didn't you just buy those?

     

    When I was sorting thru the lot (I had first dibs) you hovered over my shoulder exclaiming "you're not gonna take all of those are you?" which I would have, had you not been there. It seemed fitting to share the wealth. Chris also asked that we not re-sell them since they were a good deal. You reassured him they were for personal "alpine" use. Now I see you are trying to "trade" (also on Super Topo) to better your take.

     

    Technically not reselling but pretty frickin weak IMHO. I should have been a prick and bought them all... :mad:

     

    Good luck with that...

     

    Brass Balls Solo Vid

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Was up snomo-boarding by Van Epps this past Feb. Some solo dude rolls up and starts yammering about the Boving route on Dragontail, turns out it was Dave's brother Dan. He offers to show us some "exciting" terrain. We get to this HUGE open bowl and Dan beelines 1000' straight to the top, turns up a narrow coulior, charges through it and turns out just below the rocky ridge top. I just shut my sled off and watched in awe.

     

    Apparently the extra large steel sac runs in the family...

     

    - :brew:

    Lost/Leavenworth- Wild Things Belay Jacket

    in Lost and Found

    Posted

    In a late night effort (Sun 6th) to sober up before driving west, I may have left my green Wild Things "goat coat" near Groundhog Day. (or 8-mile area? :crosseye:) It is recognizable by the patina of funk, burnholes, and stench of stale alcohol. I would love to get it back and will glady trade a twelver of your choice. PM me...

     

    *caution*- "use" at your own risk!

    [TR] Index/11Worth - Green Drag-On/Bath tub Dome 5/5/2007

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    On Sunday I met up with Octavius and a few others for cragging in the Icicle. We hiked up to Bathtub Dome and tooled around. This was the laziest climbing day I've had in a long time. We climbed the routes on the lower tier and moved to the right. I started climbing what I thought was "Chitlin" in the latest Kramar guide. I topped out at the chains with a full rack of gear wondering why Kramar said the 70' pitch was 180' and why I needed gear to 2" for the 7 clips. Does anyone know the story with this climb? It was to climber's right of the lower tier of Bathtub. A really nice clean low-angle slab with a couple patches of exfoliated patina exposing golden granite beneath. It felt 5.8/5.9 and it was pretty clearly shown as Chitlins in the picture.

     

    What you climbed was "Crickets". "Chitlins" clips the first bolt (buttonhead) and moves left into the blocky corner and follows nondescript moss patches and rhubarb to the top of the cliff. VK was misinformed on the details which is why it is wrong in the current guidebook. The first ascentionists of "Crickets" rated the route 10b, I think it is more accurately 5.9+/10a. 5.8 would be a bit of a sand bag IMO. Tis a fun quality route.

     

    (The anchor chains and all bolts are easily viewed from the base and could/should have indicated the books error before you left the ground yielding a "full rack"...)

     

    - :brew:

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