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slaphappy

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Everything posted by slaphappy

  1. CG starts with a layback. The jams suck and it is almost horizontal. Are you serious? I'm fully aware of the subtleties of the route... You're technique sucks if you're layin it back.
  2. The only route at the Pearly Gates that is truly "bouldery" at the start is Leap of Faith and the rating (10d) is for the opening moves. Celestial Groove has a difficult start but last I remember 5.9 is hard and I feel the grade reflects an accurate rating of the difficulties. If CBS feels it's "way harder" he needs to learn how to hand jam... Easy Pickens is contrived IMO. -
  3. Humor? How many times can you repeat the same "joke" before it's no longer funny? In your and Dwayner's case, it never was...
  4. I used to ride plastic mountaineering boots in strap bindings, it worked well. I probably still would if I knew it was gonna be hardpack. I use Salomon Malamutes now a pretty stiff soft boot that are moere comfortable. -
  5. What boot/binding set up are you using? Do you adjust your forward lean differently for skinning and skiing? skins on or off? I agree, it works for short stretches, particularly if it's mellow and you can just straight line but I wouldn't say it works "well"... perhaps my skills are rusty... -
  6. Double E Although I think your shitty attitude towards snowboarding is completely misplaced, I'll give you my opinion... In short, skiing downhill in split mode sucks. I use a stiff "soft" boot and a strap binding w/carbon fiber high backs and still do not have enough forward lean to make controled turns while skinning. This might be improved slightly by using a "hard" snowboard boot but from my understanding not much and I find the stance necessary to run plate bindings limiting. (can't ride switch, landings not as stable, etc.) I do have skiing history and found that I can control short decents by snowplowing, although it is strenuous to hold. By "climbing attachments" are you refering to the heel risers? If so they work fine once you learn how to flip them with a pole, they come pretty stiff and take some breaking in. As for the ability to climb, the large surface area on the skins allows you to climb as steep (if not more so) as skiers. The only real difficulty is sidehilling on hardpack or crust, and I hear those ski crampon thingies work alright but I haven't tried them, I just boot it or go snowmobiling. Aaron- Voille boards run $750 and $800, Prior $930, and Burton right about $900. Second Ascent in Ballard has used ones (and rentals!) but they get snatched up pretty quick. You might also try splitboard.com, I've seen some reasonable prices there as well. I was a long time skeptic of the whole deal for quite a few years but the snowshoeing really started to get limiting so I finally rented one. Needless to say I ordered a Voile 173 when I returned it... I don't love the shape, it's heavy, and too soft for my liking but in the last three seasons my resort board sits unused and the split goes out every weekend. -
  7. You there on Sat? Saw some folks up there as we headed up the canyon to go find some turns. Wondered how it was, looked sparse... -
  8. I'd be laughing too, if E-rock said that shit to my face... Good weekend Eerie, sure didn't notice any tracks or ski fags where we were at... -
  9. It'll be a long ass hike if you're on the Coleman and tryin to summit the big R... -
  10. Yup, Poison Ivy should be in there. As for the other shizzle near Classic Crack, it falls mostly into the "suck" category IMO... I will edit and add technique.
  11. Here's what I think is a fairly comprehensive Leavenworth list. I eliminated a few of the above routes cause they have bolts or they are more of a multi pitch affair or I just think they suck . I'm sure I missed a few good ones from lack of knowledge (or memory...) and I definately know of a few that aren't in the most current guide that should be included. I did down rate a few (one grade) to keep it more consistant. A few are multi pitch but most have a quality first pitch at the given rating, others like the R&D just simply should be included. You'll notice a serious decline after 11- cause, um, well, that shizzle is gettin too hard for my old ass... 5.5 Midway- multi Saber- multi Notch Route on Tumwater Tower- hands 5.6 R&D- multi Tree Route- multi The Fault- chimney, hands, fists, face Ground Hog Day- fingers, hands 5.7(+) Givler's Crack- mostly hands, fist Bob's 4th Crack- hands Roots Rock Reggae- hands P2 Rgular Route (Careno)- hands 5.8(+) Classic Crack- hands Dogleg Crack- tight hands, hands S Face Jello Tower- tight hands, hands, face Canary- hands Animal Farm- hands, fists, face Cloud Nine- hands, fists Catapult- hands, stemming Arselips and Elbows- chimney Spaghetti Sauce- hands The Arch- undercling, smearing P3 Regular Route (Careno)- stemming, hands 5.9(+) Celestial Groove- fingers, hands Ski Tracks Crack- hands Damnation Crack- lieback, fists Kitty Corner- lieback, stem, fingers, hands Yellowbird- fingers, hands, face The Bone- hands, heel hook, mantle Lightning Crack- hands Poison Ivy Crack- hands Deception Crack- thin hands, slick face Twin Cracks- thin hands Angel Crack- fingers, slick-as-snot feet Forking Crack- hands, face 5.10- Crack of Doom- hands, thin hands, face Brass Balls- fingers, off fingers, hands Cocaine Crack- fingers, hands Arms Control- fingers, hands Exotic Dancer- stemming, hands Meat Grinder- hands, fists Bo Derek- hands, face A Swingn' Affair- hands P3 Bale/Kramar- fingers, hands, fists Pearly Gates- fingers, chimney, hands 5.10+ MF Overhang- fingers, face The Nose- fingers, face Carnival Crack- OW Z-Crack- fingers, hands Deb's Crack- hands, fists Original Route on Warrior Wall- stemming, hands, face Shot Down in Flames- lieback, hands Leap of Faith- fingers, thin hands, face 5.11- Pumpline- fingers, thin hands MF Direct- fingers Divine Line- fingers Solar Power- fingers Air Roof- fingers, hands 5.11+ ROTC- thin hands, hands Lazy Boy- hands -
  12. Get outta here Eerie! Shouldn't you be over in 2-strokeluster.com or smoke2packsaday.com or somethin? * bet you won't forget snowshoes again...
  13. Nah, I totally Blewett. Nice one! and yes you did... next weekend looks to be as well... TB- break the beast? I assume you mean my sled. No, other than replacing lower A-arms on the front end like every other week at $125 each... damn rocks. I've been using it as transportation for the most part and gettin on the split. Besides, I bought another (more of a "baby of the beast")... you know, just in case ...
  14. Great day near Blewett... 8"-12" of perfection. Anyone else get some?
  15. Jeebus Jake, sounds miserable... beers and buds were the theme of my day... and now it's SNOWING! prayers? who the fuck still does that shizzle? -
  16. Sweet! How close (legally) can you get with a sled?
  17. yeah, and the Sears Tower in the back seat...
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