slaphappy

You are correct Pope, I have no intrest in seeing motorcycles or MacDonalds in Mt. Rainier National Park. (although a Whole Foods might be nice after a long day or two!) But if that's what the majority of people want I would live with it. Unless it was built at Camp Hazard or Muir it would effect me little. Although I do not agree with you that bolts are ugly, I do believe there are places they do not belong. I don't know why the two gentlemen decided Dan's Dreadful needed to be "safer". It is jammed in there pretty tight and has been lead multiples of times on gear. (I have a friend who did it) There are many new lines that could be done instead, not on Castle Rock. Although I don't necessarily care that it has been bolted, I do care if it gets chopped. This would start an even more destructive and unsightly trend. Look, for example, at the fine mess on "Whipsaw" at the coulee or "Cunning Stunt" at Index, both popular routes that are visible by nonclimbers. This kind of argumentation between climbers does neither side any good! To a nonclimber this "fight" would appear both destructive and comical. If climbers want to reduce the number of bolts to improve the appearance I suggest CAREFUL removal of pointless bolts, such as abandoned lead bolt projects (all over Leavenworth and Index) or routes that are climbed so infrequently you need to wade through knee deep moss to clip. (right hand side of Private Idaho) And possibly an agreement by bolters to do a better job matching the rock with hangers and chains, particularly where they will be seen by nonclimbers. (This was achieved by the retroers of D.D.D.) Just a thought.

I apoligize for calling Peter your hero, I was just responding to your comment about my "superhero list". Bryan would not be classified as my hero, but his accomplishments in the local climbing community are noteworthy. I read the splatter about bolts. I saw 10-20 people (hardly a representation of the climbing community)who had a strong dislike for them. I see mobs of people clipping them. (a much larger representation of the climbing community) There is soooo much rock and only a small portion of it is climbable, only an even smaller portion of the climbable rock has bolts. In the big picture of life, just like personal achievements, bolts are inconsequential. Climbers will never "grid" all the rock, because most of it is not climbable. (accept perhaps by a couple of Eastern Washington "painters") The reason no one justifies bolts to you is because no one has too! Who are you? Oh and I won't talk about your arrogance or your package. Although I don't know you personally I know someone who has climbed with you and he actually vouches for you as a climber and a person. (He did mention that you certainly aren't as bold as your "spray" would lead me to believe.) Since I haven't been to exit 38 or 32 in a number of years I am not familiar with the "glue" sign. There is room for all styles of climbing. I spent the last 5 days climbing cracks and the previous five clipping bolts, I am a climber and found enjoyment in both.

Pope, interesting you should use Peter Croft as an example. In the latest issue of Rock and Smut (page 52) there is a route called The Touring Inferno which Peter calls his and the other first ascentionists "finest hour". Notice the bolts along the traversing crack and the three bolt/chain anchor. I find it ironic he is one of your "heroes" Do you think they bolted that crack on lead? or on rappel? I'm sure they held themselves in place with pro to put in the bolts. Besides a route that goes at a mere 11a Peter could solo in his dreams. It seems as though your hero is not as closed minded as yourself!

Thanks Dru, but I believe the question refers to the climbers accomplishments and not his ethics (why is it that ethics creeps into everything?) And I did not say first ascents, I said first ascents grade III-VI. Only two of Bryan's are sport routes the others are mostly ground-up trad routes. You are correct it should be split into specific catagories, but wait, who cares!

I'm sure most of you haven't heard of him but, Dave Moroles. He climbs everything and anything, terrifying hard runouts, 5.13 cracks and sport, as well as demanding water ice and mixed routes! (oh yeah he solos amazing shit too!) I'd swear his heartrate never changes! Bryan Burdo is worth mentioning also, I believe he has more grade III-VI first ascents than anyone else in the state, including Mr. Becky! Not to mention his other sport accomplishments, 5.13 at age 40!( I'm sure at least one of you will grab your Cascade "bible" trio and start counting, remember Bryan has at least 1 or 2 that haven't made it in there yet. And btw I did not spend/waste my time actually counting them, I got my info from someone who did!)I realized I should clarify that those ascents are only in Washington state (and Slesse) If others were included I'm sure Fred would have him beat! [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 06-11-2001).]

Pope- Oh how wrong you are! I am not nearly as serious as you believe. I just returned last night from a two day outing to repack, grab a new partner (HOTTER than any "top shelfer/stepper", whatever, you share company with) and am headed back out for the next 7 days. And you?? Put your vinyl "Hotty" back in her box and get out! Bye-Bye!

Pope- I also have a serious question or two. Do you have a split personality? Is "Donna" actually you becoming more familiar with your feminine side? I have followed your pointless babble with this "Donna" and it sure seems to me that your in the midst of a serious identity crisis. Are you confused? Maybe you should take some time off from "spackling" this occasionaly useful site and seek some profesional help. Or perhaps you might consider pitching your keyboard out the window and actually go climb something, you may discover it can actually be fun. (although I doubt that "fun" ever shows itself on your outings) Spray away oh spacklemaster!

quote: Originally posted by slaphappy:I have top roped before using a grigri. I have fallen on it and it has always worked. I do not, however, trust it 100% and usually fix two lines and run an ascender up the other just in case. I have also seen people trail a petzl basic or an Ushba ascender on a longer runner below their grigri, while climbing a single strand. (The coiling of the rope off the ground is a fine idea, or try suspending your pack slightly off the ground, this works well also - a bit more weight) Just a note, also having little to do with the original question, while aid soloing with my grigri my daisy chain rapped around the device holding the handle shut. The handle needs to "lift" for the Grigri to cam on the rope properly, if I had fallen (I did not) I don't think it would have stopped the fall. I have heard of people altering the handle to avoid this, although I would be reluctant to do such. (I also clipped in as a backup as I was not 100% confident in the grigri) Be Careful!

[This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 05-23-2001).] [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 05-23-2001).]

In October of 99, a friend and I climbed the Cascade-Johannisburg couloir. It was good climbing all the way, accept for the top 200 ft. which was "sugar" covered by a 1/4" eggshell of ice. During the course of the day it snowed 6-8", and with spindrift accumulation, we wanted outta there and fast! We sat down 200 ft. below the col. and glissaded/rode the snow, accept for one short step (with questionable control) to the base of the runout in a remarkably short period of time. All in all it was about a 2800' steep ride!