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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Hey Stebbi, I remmember you from this summer on Sahale. How would you like to get out Sunday? I was the guy doin Buckner.w
  2. If I may speak for my friend Alasdair, I think he specificaly means the West ridge. And the question is , is the route better in may or June? Thanx.w
  3. The Horse is a great place to start your ice vacation.It is cheap to stay in Golden and quick getting to the ice. Pretty nuts is the roadside classic and the crowds will agree, get there early or late. It will fit several parties but can suck when they bombard with ice or ropes. Riverview is fun,but can crowd out too.Essondale is tougher than the book suggests if the conditions are chandeliered.I think we did the Right and it was a 5 for sure.The other stuff to the left is scary looking. I think it is a great place to warm up for the stuff in Banff.Have fun
  4. (Copious Fawning) We want to hear about it when you get back [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  5. Great reports Mr.Skoog! It is refreshing to see this site used consructively.have you heard of the n.face of Buckner being skiied,and would it be better to first climb the easy rt(s.w.) up then ski the n.face then climb the n.face and return the easy way?
  6. Hey Rep,It is not my style to discourage any ambition this side of suicide, but I will merely give the vitals on this route and let you decide.1. It has not seen a winter ascent according to the guide books, that doesnt mean it wont,just maybe not during a winter like this one. Last year would have been perfect and I would have been very interested myself2. I did the route with D.P. and I think you would find it intriuging enough in the summer.Recon time is never a waste3.I have been in the area in winter and it is most burly. Access and avvyies are difficult obstacles.4. I dont know how the subject of skiing came up , but to ski down would put you in a place where you would have to climb back up. Maybe you could climb the easy way up the south face and then skidown n.face to climb up the N. face then? The trip would be an expedition to put it lightly.5.No helicopter landings are allowed in the park.6. Good luck finding a willing partner.w [ 01-30-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  7. Being Wayne Wallace and having climbed three routes on the Spider, I hope the slide didnt wipe out the routes from end to end on the wall. The Spider is a wonderful and challenging face with great alpine climbing. The new Jeff Thomas guide should be out soon and topo the routes on the Spider as well as the best kept secret in the northwest.
  8. no that wasnt the Pencil.It didnt form last year. That was the last 4+ pithces, where it gets fun! Nice picture David.
  9. I now have 5 friends for sale :#1 Rigid - $12 #1 1/2 Rigid $15 #2 1/2 Hb Flex$22 #3 1/2 Rigid $20 #4 Rigid $20 $1 per unit off for buying multiples. I live in Seattle and will travel 5 miles to meet you .
  10. David ,I bought mine cheap in Banff and they put them on for me there too. Took forever and looks like a pain in the ass.w p.s. They are the shit!
  11. I have 3 Friends,size#1, 3-1/2, and 4. I also have a #2-1/2 HB Quadcam for sale $12-20 each.Write or call Wayne @ 206-818-1327. It would be great to have them in a good home.
  12. I have 3 Friends,size#1, 3-1/2, and 4. I also have a #2-1/2 HB Quadcam for sale $12-20 each.Write or call Wayne @ 206-818-1327. It would be great to have them in a good home.
  13. O.K. has anyone seen the new guide to southern B.C. Selected Alpine Climbs? IT is staggering, the pictures and routes are amazing. "All climbs within a weekend of Vancouver" . Who has done what that is classic? POST AWAY PLEASE!
  14. Look for Jeff Thomas's new book out soon on the sick new routes on mt Hood and the other volcanoes.A lot of mixed and ice !
  15. Yes ,David ,The N.face couloir was in .The reason we climbed it was it offered more interesting ice than the other regular rt.They both were continuous in August. Thank you for the picture if Eldorado.Even though it looked incomplete, it is my guess that it reguires a couple of fall storms to turn it into the verglas masterpiece it seems.Ther doesnt always have to be a thick super hiway of ice to be a quality ice experience.Look whats going on with mixed.Go for it anyways!I cant wait to stab the thin!!!! [This message has been edited by wayne1112 (edited 10-02-2001).]
  16. David just look what you started.Lets start thinking about that nwest ice couloir on Eldo SOON!!!!!!!w
  17. Did it 2 weeks ago it was fine .we did the left couloir..Crossing boston gl no problem.Route was easy
  18. Thanx Cap,I am assuming you mean September 10-12 If so that is soon?Any help on sites you can offer?w
  19. Are the trails open into the enchantments?Are there any restrictions currently in effect? I am intrested in the Colchuck Lake area.Any sites out there that link to the park itself,thanx ,w
  20. On July 3-8 Two separate teams from different states successfully competed a simultaneous traverse of the amazing Mount Challenger. Meeting at the summit on day three was a momentous half hour I shall never forget . The knowledge that I would not have to backtrack to Hannegan Pass was a joy as I would further explore the way out by finding the way to Big Beaver pass.Seven people made the two teams.I would like to again thank and congradulate each of you on making it a most fun and warm time of my life.w
  21. Did it a month ago Free solo of complete difficult loose exposed
  22. People will do any thing for new routes at Smith Rock
  23. Nice job Pete! Glad to hear you guys made it , you were moving fast last I saw you.We have discussed doing Mt.Goode,But we dont know if thats a good candidate.We think it might be cool to park a car at rainy pass,summit,go to to stehekin ,and have a plane there that just dropped off 2 climbers that will then climb and retrieve the car,Not simultaneous, but the plane thing sounds cool.Let me know of your ideas,this thing grew from the idea of hateing back tracking. w
  24. Yes, we were that party, and it was a party as we all summited and did the traverse!Imperfect was handled right at the base of the buttress that comes down from Whatcom.It is a steep sided gully that is easily traversed into and out,starting from a ledge with a tree.If you have done it right you will pass an old bolt.Were you a father and son team?The internet has proven to be a powerful tool in this hectic message machine age.Thank You everyone who participated and I will await your ideas for the future! [This message has been edited by wayne1112 (edited 07-09-2001).]
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