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bobinc

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Posts posted by bobinc

  1. When we did this many, many years ago, I don't recall needing (or bringing) any rock pro; it's just 3rd class. Up above, if the 'shrund on top of Curtis Glacier is covered up, you'll only find kinda steep snow. We were there in early Aug and had to climb down into the melted-out shrund and then up the other side with only long ice axes and standard crampons (not really recommended). Guess you could take pickets but if you're reasonably competent on snow, you probably don't really need 'em.

  2. Great story- glad justice was served.

     

    Growing up in HR, I recall many times when we were parked in that lot after dark with no consequences. Honestly don't know when the Heat got so sensitive.

     

    As far as the night-time annual pass idea, seems quite reasonable. I think the thing should be all black- a la Spinal Tap's 'Smell the Glove'.

  3. Eagle Dance is more or less south=facing and also high on the wall so you get a bit more day length. I would recommend considering an overnight permit, too, so then you could have a bit more leisurely trip. Other good climbs up there, too; not sure if you can get multiple days on the permit (but perhaps). Have to check notes but I think you can get away with one 70m rope there, too. Lots of fixed gear on that climb, as well.

  4. I'd take skis and also an axe and aluminum crampons for the gully. Hard to know if the climb itself will have much snow on it. But if you get up the notch ands it looks okay, go ahead. If there seems to be too much snow, you can just descend the gulley and spend the day touring in the general vicinity.

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