highclimb
give yourself 5 days and climb the tahoma glacier. you WONT be disappointed. it’s awesomely beautiful and very quiet…
the emmons and kautz glaciers routes are both great alternatives for first timers (or second, or 100…). based on the short description you gave of your experience (10,800 high point), i would suggest the emmons over the kautz. Both, however, offer unique and interesting challenges, each with great features and beautiful views. the kautz, like the emmons, has a long approach, but more interesting climbing terrain once on route. the emmons begins lower but the forest and alpine zones you’ll travel through are pretty cool. though the route itself is purely a glacier climb, its crevasses, ice features, and views of little tahoma make the trip well worth it. not to mention, the emmons has AWESOME sunrises… i disagree with the comment above about the emmons glacier, its not “reallllly boring”…
the dc is a nice route and does offer some variety to straigh up glacier climbing. but remember, it’s heavily institutionalized and the most popular route up rainier. expect other people, the guide service and congestion on fridays, saturdays and sundays. by the way, the NPS only allows 110 people at muir, not 250. (I can’t believe is “only”.) there are 35 spots at ingraham flats and 24 on the muir snowfield. the total for the muir route is somewhere around 170… get the picture? the emmons has and its respective camps limit people on route to about 100, while the kautz is limited to something like 50…
to avoid crowds (which are prevalent on the dc, kautz, and emmons), climb mid week.
you ask for tips on success and enjoyment?
1. climb some other stuff first, ie, get in shape. adams, hood or baker are great choices, so is mt. si, tiger mountain, etc... get your legs and lungs up to speed. outside of weather, poor fitness is the most common reason why climbers don't make rainier's summit. if you can’t climb other mountains, then spend some time chasing bike messengers around seattle, biking is great exercise.
2. eating well is important (i say forget the astronaut food in foil packages and make something real on the mountain). DRINKING, however, is critical... don't go crazy and drink so much you have to pee constantly, but drink AT LEAST 2 quarts a day, more if you're sweating a lot. it will make things go much more smoothly. oh, and breath deeply too...
3. PMA. positive mental attitude. i know i can, i know can, i know i can... watch your breaths, eat well, drink, get in shape, and the entire trip, including reaching the summit will be a pleasure.
4. make sure your “tight” with your climbing partners. have agreeable goals, temperaments and aspirations. if possible, keep your team small, 3 people is ideal. large teams incur more problems and move slowly. teams of 2 are great if you’ve climbed together a lot and are familiar and comfortable with each other. if that’s not the case, stick with 3.
good luck,
gauthier
