Tony_Bentley
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Posts posted by Tony_Bentley
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Really bummed to hear about this. He was an awesome guy and our climbing adventures were very memorable. RIP and condolences.
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It's totally Leavenworthy but convoluted. I'm pretty sure that's a consensus among the locals too. It's on the top 5.10's list for sure though.
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Hi Laurel,
Here is a list of favorites 10 - .10c and they all come highly recommended as classic Leavenworth routes in no order
Curtains
Off Duty
Yard Art - rad crack and face climbing then climb Lawn Darts
Angel - classic
Easter Overhang will kick your ass
Javelin
Anorexic Edges - slab at it's finest
Bale/Kramar - classic!
Mr Tremendous (Contrived but fun)
Aquamarine
Veins of Glory
Pearly Gates
Iconoclast
Washboard
Swingin Affair for a great overhanging hand crack start
For 5.10+ Leap of Faith and Hyperspace are my favorites.
I'm happy to offer a tour of any of these in the near future if you're interested.
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Across the canyon from Nevermind but higher up, directly up and up from Substation.
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I took a little side tour at Exit 38 and stumbled on a pretty nice cave with some serious development going on. Complete with about dozen or more QD's, 3 ropes on routes, a couple of ropes cached and a pick axe as well as a regular axe. Pretty cool looking routes. Can someone provide me a little beta on who is working on this area? I'd like to help out with some of the de-chossing and erosion prevention. I can't believe this area is still in the works a dozen years after my first visit to the area. PM me offline unless this is already published.
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http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/classic-mountaineering-crampons/vasak
Check out the dual front bail positions. Excellent for duckbills but adjustable for AT. I bought mine 5 years ago and they have been great, even after I decided to switch to Dynafit.
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Cerro Machu Picchu
Torres del Paine "W" circuit
A perfect day hiking the Cerro Torres trail
Skiing from the east col of Edith Cavell from the hostel
Slot Couloir last Saturday
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I was in El Chaltén last week and had one good day of weather out of 5. Fortunately there are tons of cliffs around town in case you decide it was a dumb idea to try to climb anything in the massif without proper training or enough time to wait out the bad weather. Looks like great sport climbing and possibly some long trad leads too.
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Maybe find a super windy day during the winter and climb something at Washington Pass or the Pickets in a day or two and you might be okay to climb in the Torres. Nothing indoors will prepare you for the hell you might endure. When I look at Colin's tick list of winter climbs, it becomes apparent why he's capable of climbing down there. A good example would be Inspiration Peak winter ascent.
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I rapp'd the route with a single 30 meter rope some years back. If the NPS cleaned it enough to prevent that, just bring some cord for chalkstone anchors.
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Have YOU climbed it recently?
yep
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That route was climbed before 50m was the standard. It was also climbed before cams were the standard. I think no matter how you do it, it's going to be different than the last person. Just go climb it, leave the wire brush and bolt kit at home. It's a classic alpine adventure and let's try to keep it that way.
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1.) Find someone to take my dog on the weekends for free so I can climb some alpine stuff.
2.) Find some fool to take to the upper parts of the Icicle Canyon for some dirt adventures.
3.) At least one classic Pickets route. I don't care which one but maybe one I haven't climbed yet. N butt of Fury?
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Big peaks? You mean Rainier, Baker and Adams? There are some great ski tours and ice climbs on some small peaks around here that might just blow your mind. I'm going to plug Turns-All-Year.com because there is a pattern of where people go and if you can learn it, you won't have any problem finding a partner. For now, hit the resort slack-country and there you'll find your future partners yipping to face shots.
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I did some internet research this morning and apparently there have been studies that target the effectiveness of taping to reduce stress. The results pretty much say it doesn't do much. I have taped in the past but I don't remember it doing much. Is there a way to speed up recovery maybe? Perhaps someone has had success with a sort of cycle of training/recovery they can share?
Sky, as much as I'd love to pump on NM clip-ups it's more likely that we'll be bombing powder up here somewhere until next spring.
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Is there a good way to reinforce finger pulleys while climbing at the gym? There aren't any injuries yet but I am getting some soreness on all of the pulleys.
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I love her wingsuit videos. She is my hero.
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Only 3 standard sizes and two hybrid sizes but still... they are my favorite cams to double up on tcu's in the red, yellow, orange and green. I feel like the best climbing rack always has an assortment of Camalots (C4), tcu's and aliens (totem basic cams).
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Curious if this dude ever went. BUMP.
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Wow those are all awesome climbs. Congrats on tagging those obscure lines!
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Anything at Washington Pass, anything in the Stuart Range and anything that is normally done in 2-3 days can usually be done within 24 hours car to car. Pack light, move fast and start at night the day before. If you're not used to the fast and light concept and would rather take in the scenery and move slow then maybe just pick climbs that are typically day climbs like Ingalls Peak, Guye Peak, Snow Creek Wall, etc.
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Great climb. I love that 5.10 pitch! It didn't have any hangers when I climbed it.
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Not sure anymore. I forget climbs often but it was a great route.
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I wonder if the fixed pin that I pulled 5 years ago is the same one you are talking about. It came out by hand and there was pro nearby so I thought it was somewhat useless.
I'm not Crushing and it's Bumming me Out
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
You're not crushing because you're not challenged by the Icicle anymore. Head to the Yellowhead Highway and go fall in love with the limestone. You'll never regret it.