michaeljosephnozel

Sour Mash if sharing with several (not too brutal on the pocketbook); Single Malt for special occasions (particularily something from the Islay Region, say . . . Laphroaig).

Matt: Hope you find some climbable ice nearby. Lee Vining would be a long drive as its own destination, but for us, it was on the way home from Joshua Tree. And it turned out to be a really nice detour--highly recommended if you are down that way.

Matt: There is good ice at Lee Vining, if you care to make the drive--(15) hours from Vancouver, WA; add another (3) for Renton. I was there 01/17 and 01/18. Check out the conditions at: www.themountainguide.com (updated weekly, and I found them to be very accurate). There is ice available, but--unfortunately--not much close to home this season. "Maybe next year. . ."

Hey Nelly, there are a few of us around here (Vancouver, WA). Did I see you at 24-Hour Fitness the other night?

1. Scimitar Glacier,Glacier Peak (one of those magical days in the mountains). 2. Steve Ettling (probably nobody recognizes the name, but he was my partner the day we executed our rather-serious self-rescue). 3. Pipeline (I just love offwidths, and really want to climb this one--but am not yet burly enough).

As for "Tale of Two Shitties," Heinous has some vague beta--as pointed out by RP. The 1st pitch is indeed loose, and "shitty." The 2nd pitch, however, is the reason to make the ascent--a spectacular roof/traverse crack on good quality rock. The 3rd pitch is runout to the final anchor (at least in June of 1999--maybe a bolt was replaced since then?). I recall that the "Two Shitties" were the first and last pitches, but that the middle pitch was stellar. Have you climbed this route,Heinous?

Correction: Championship Wrestling is on Sports Challenge, East Face, not Sentinel.

Don't know about March conditions for Lee Vining, but as Kevin alluded, "April Fools" is named for its late conditions. Just returned from (2) days at Lee Vining, on the way home from Joshua Tree. Climbed Thurs. and Fri. 01/17 and 01/18. Conditions were good, and cold was predicted to continue (supposed to be a low of 5*F on Fri. night). The town of Lee Vining sits at an elevation (if I recall) of about 8100', with the ice in a deep, narrow canyon at least a couple hundred feet higher. Most of the climbing is on the north facing side, but there was also some stuff on the opposite side. Kind of a long drive as its own destination (about 15 hours from Vancouver, WA), but a DEFINITE detour on your way home from Joshua Tree, Bishop, etc. One note of caution: Try to hit it on the weekdays, as the weekend traffic is reportedly ridiculous.

One of my favorite trad routes names: Championship Wrestling (on Sentinel, East Face, Joshua Tree). The guidebook suggests gear to 5", but it's really more like gear to 9". Climbed it last Wednesday 01/16, and yes, deployed my #4 Big Bro near the top. Great fun; great route name.

Heinous: Funny thing is. . .it was probably the kid's 300th attempt. But when he finally gets it, he will be a 5.13c (or whatever) climber.

WI2; 5.4? Didn't I see you on Icy BC last winter; and weren't you on Wildcat Crack last summer? Drink heavily? I guess I'll have to take your word....

Hmmmmmmmmm....Chris Ledoux?

Cpt. Caveman: Perhaps the "helmet with face shield" partner is my girlfriend. Granted, there are probably other women who wear protective shields, but the guy you thought it was, is also from Vancouver, WA. Did we meet you at Icy BC one day, then Honeyman Falls the next? The story on my girlfriend's hockey helmet with plexiglass shield is: The previous year in Lillooet, she witnessed another women gash her face open when her tool popped--bloody mess! Her interest in ice climbing declined "slightly," until outfitted with the hockey setup. Perhaps we'll see you again this winter. . . .

Depending on your location (for example, Portland vs. Seattle), the Lower Gorge at Smith is a fantastic place to practice clean aid--on either side of the river. Combining both sides of the Lower Gorge, you have about 600-800' of nearly continuous columnar basalt, with cracks spaced about every 4-6'. Almost nobody down there, even on the most crowded of weekends, so you just jump on whatever looks good. And in my opinion, this is the best climbing at Smith, anyway!!

Cal, nice job, and congratulations!! What was your round trip duration? How many were in your party? Are you guys sub-four-minute-miler animals, or just fit climbers with real jobs? Was the route falling apart, or do you imagine it will remain climbable? I have wanted to do that route ever since we passed beneath it on our way to doing the N Ridge in one push, car-to-car.

My vote would be the last (7) miles, or approximately (11) kilometres, of the road to Brohm Ridge, Garibaldi Park (that is, to the gate below the Black Tusk Snowmobile Lodge). To put it into perspective, however, the local snowmobilers driving the road must not see it like I did. These guys were FLYING in their pickups--some even had their snowmobiles tied in the back, bouncing around like hell. Anyway, I thought it was the most treacherous road I've driven (within the above defined parameters).

Upon a second reading, I guess I am slightly out of the above defined parameters. Being right off Hwy 99, and only minutes from Squamish, however, it seemed within the ballpark.

Dru, we made an honest effort to find the route, and spent a good deal of time searching, before we "pulled the plug" and climbed at Cirque of the Uncrackables. That evening, and the following morning, we inquired to some locals and visitors about locating Sunblessed. The visitors told us that a few days earlier they had had the same experience that we did--failed to find it. The locals advised us to use a rain-day rather than a climbing-day to find it (but that it was a tremendous route). Perhaps you and I will one day cross paths at Squamish, and you can assist my quest. I still would like to do the route. (Sounds like you have the beta). And, hey, I would like to meet the guy who has over 1100 postings on this site, anyway.

All in all, I believe the NW to be the best place to call home, but I've lived here a long time, and I'm accustomed to the DREARY WINTERS. I attended and graduated from UW, and met many who SUFFERED during the "monsoon season." A close friend battled fairly severe depression each winter (he was from the Sacramento Valley). He told me that it was monumentally challenging to NOT SEE THE SUN for several weeks. (I, on the other hand, took it all in stride. . . . A matter of perspective).

Exasperator--quite possibly the finest 10c pitch I've ever done. (And the first pitch is no pushover). A question: how many of you have ever found Sunblessed. I tried; failed miserably. Don't even know if I was within a stone's throw, or hours away. Talked to some locals who said, "It's spectacular. . . if you can find it. . . ." Dru, what's the situation? Is it a Canadian secret? On a separate, but related note, is the consumption of ganga higher at Squamish than anywhere else? I do not personally imbibe, but respect other's decision to do so. But, good lord, I saw ganga being consumed for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Never have seen the likes of the Squamish consumption at other crags. Dru, what's the situation? Is it a Canadian secret?

Thanks Capt! Very helpful stuff! We were originally headed to Squamish this afternoon (from Vancouver, WA), but needed a "plan B" due to border closure.

I'm having real difficulties locating this book. There are several books which include a section, or highlight, on Index, but I would like to locate the comprehensive guide. Anyone know where I can find it?

Although Matt Christensen's out-of-print guide to Tieton was quite good--I perused a copy last fall--I do not know where one could obtain a copy. The most comprehensive guide currently available is Quick and Dirty Guide to the Tieton River Climbing Areas, by Yale Preston and Norm Reid. (Most likely available in Yakima). As a disclaimer, however, some of the photos--particularily Bend West, leave something to be desired. It is a bit of a challenge locating some of the routes, but WELL WORTH THE EFFORT!! Tieton is a stellar climbing area. Every time I visit Tieton, I wonder when the crowds will finally catch up. Has not happened yet, so I guess I am not going to complain too loudly about the quality of the guidebook photos. . . . And, in closing, I just have to throw out a list of some of my favorite Tieton routes: Inca Roads, Ball and Chain, Ignorant Pursuit (awesome offwidth), Orange Sunshine, Paul Maul, Solar King--at Royal Columns; Salmon Song, Reckoning, Ambient Domain, Seizure, Living for the City, Winds of Change, and Mutiny in Manila--at the Bend. Enjoy!

All in all, if one uses the descriptions and beta contained herein, there is much useful information exchanged. However, like damned near everything else, it is subjective. One man may find a particular woman incredibly desirable, while another may find her filthy, gaudy, and without any redeeming qualities. Who is to stay one is correct, and one incorrect? Each believes himself to be correct--and, to a certain extent, is. Knowing the vast differences in the ways people perceive the world, and the infinite details within, one can truly maximize the utility of this website and its information. It is all subjective, so. . .as has been previously postulated. . .take everything with a grain or two of salt.

Hey Roger, how is the crux pitch of Northwest Face compared to crux pitch of West Face (N Early Winter Spire)? My girlfriend and I did West Face a few weeks back, and the crux pitch was a grunt-fest for me--fun, but unsightly to watch. My girlfriend, however, cruised it (smaller fingers).