michaeljosephnozel

Spent a day at The Bend and a day at Royal Columns this past weekend. Wow, Tieton is fantastic! I think I enjoy it more each time I visit. Anyway, there is a very large pre-fabricated steel structure (currently in two sections) in the parking lot of the Oak Creek Ranger Station. It appears that it will be the new foot bridge--other climbers made the same conclusion, but no one could confirm. Does anyone know if this is, in fact, a new foot bridge? If so, who is responsible? Access Fund? The Tyrolean certainly adds a bit of adventure to a day at the crag, in addition to being something on the order of a 5.10b-equivalent warmup (with a pack)--especially with the shaky condition of the tree ladder on the crag side. A new foot bridge would be nice, though.

Thanks, Eric! The rattlesnakes definitely add another dimension to the climbing at this time of the year--it seems they all come out of hibernation on the same damn day . . . .

Heading up there this weekend, and cannot remember exact specifics of raptor closures. Though I prefer The Bend, a couple buddies want to sample some of the RC classics: Inca Roads, Orange Sunshine, Paul Maul. Anyone know current status? Thanks

A stylin' pair of Arnold Schwarzennegger Terminator-style sunglasses on the first pitch of East Face of Chianti Spire. But that is not the really weird part . . . . Just before starting up the climb, my girlfriend (who almost never forgets important articles like sunglasses), sheepishly informs me that she has forgotten her sunglasses. I hand over mine, and start up the rampy section on the first pitch. Not 8 or 10 moves up, I notice something shiny in my peripheral vision--a little bit scratched near the bottom of one lens, but perfectly acceptable to get by for the day. "You're not going to f-in' believe this, but . . . (I turn around, sporting my mirrored, low-profile shades) . . . look at THIS booty!" We both got a good laugh, and knew that the mountain gods were smiling on us. At the summit, we took a few extra photos of me wearing those classic shades, replete with classic Arnie film quotes. I keep those glasses in my glove compartment now, and pull them out from time to time . . . and yes, I can be heard rolling down the highway howling "Sahwa Conna, Sahwa Conna, take me to Sahwa Conna."

Duh . . . just looked at the website; got all the specs.

Hey Mike, what is the weight on the Bibler bivy sack? How many poles?

Okay, sounds like we have concensus on a warranty issue. Also sounds like this is a rare problem, since no one responded with a similar experience. I'll contact BD, and commence the warranty return. I will also report back with the particulars as to how BD handles it. Thanks for the responses.

Have never had this happen on any other of my BD Express screws, but earlier this winter I lost the little retaining washer off the end of the "express" spindle (the critical piece which holds the knurled collar onto the spindle). Fortunately, I was able to save the knurled collar, as I probably would have been unlikely to locate it in the snow after the fact. Anyway, I went to the hardware store thinking it would be easy to find a replacement washer which would provide a suitably snug fit, but no luck. I doubt whether this is a common problem, but has anyone experienced this and found a good solution? Perhaps this screw needs to be sent into Black Diamond? Any constructive assistance will be appreciated.

Hey Jens, I am aware of the gyms in Ballard and Redmond, but what gym is in Tacoma?

Wayne: I realize this is a bit off the subject, but since you mentioned that you are periodically in touch with Jeff Thomas, it sparked my curiousity. Last weekend, John Jackson and I went up to attempt Brain Salad Surgery, on Osa Thatcher's Needle at Smith (first ascent, Jeff Thomas). The climb itself looks really good, but the approach pitch was horrifying. I attempted every conceivable line to the base of the climb, but only got about halfway up from the gully. The approach pitch consisted of very crumbly tuff, and my "protection" was, perhaps, adequate to arrest the weight of a #5 Camalot. As much as I wanted to sample the climb, I felt it wisest to continue no further. The guidebook description states: "Remarkably, this stunningly solid gem rises amidst some of the worst rock on Earth. . . ." This I found to be true. I do not yet know, however, about the "gem" above. Although there is no reference to actually CLIMBING the "worst rock on Earth" approach pitch to the base of the "gem," I am going to assume it was, indeed, climbed. (Rather than being approached by rappelling in from the top, then climbing back out). I still want to climb the route, but instead of charging up to the top, and rappelling in, I wanted to further investigate. (Perhaps I totally missed the solution, but good God . . . I do not think so). Do you happen to know anymore about it? If not, could you run it by Jeff Thomas? Or could you put me in touch with him? Thanks, in advance, for any help you can offer.

Just returned from the Wine Spires last night--some mosquitos; some black flies. Not too bad yet, but I've seen them so thick you could hardly stand still and exchange a word with your partner. (Almost void of snow around Wine Spires; quite a bit left around Liberty Bell group).

Thanks everybody for the replies. I think a midnight start from Snow Creek TH will put us to the base in really good time, not only to do the climb, but also to hike out the same day. As for the slippery-ness of Prusik's chimney (in the post by wayne1112), I found the crux chimney pitch on Epinephrine to be smooth-sided, quite strenuous, and with precious little gear for the length of the pitch. If that doesn't kill me, why would a shorter--albeit, more awkward--better protected chimney kill me? (Or is this just another "you'll die in the chimneys" remark?).

Looking forward to a forthcoming ascent of Prusik South Face. For those of you who have done this route, as well as Epinephrine, how would you compare the chimneying in terms of difficulty/strenuousness, protectability, and the all-important "pucker index?" Also, I understand that no permit is necessary if one is doing the route in a day, car-to-car. Is this accurate?

I know . . . I know . . . I don't like it anymore than anyone else, but the ticket is also painful. So, I know one is needed for Blue Lake TH, but what about the Hairpin Turnout off Hwy 20, and the turnout for Burgundy/Chianti? (I do not ever recall these areas requiring one). Thanks, in advance, for any current specifics.

Thanks for the information, gentlemen. See you out there!

Hey, Terminal Gravity, I've been wanting to do the N Face for a while, and have a few questions. You say that you were at least an hour late at the bergshrund--do you speculate that you would have summitted with the additional time? What did it take you from the Cooper Spur Ski Area (near where I would assume you parked) to the bergshrund? (I realize it is a relative time, but just curious). Are you going back again this season? Spectacular looking route!

Arriving Sunday evening 04/07, departing Thursday evening 04/11. (Interested in sharing a site, therefore, 04/07-04/10).

Straight Talk--like the beer in your perpetual drinking icon--is a "stout" 10a!

Will be in Red Rocks for (4) days. Anyone interested in sharing a campsite? Not enormous, but it does save $20 to share a site. (The savings could be applied to a nice bottle of single malt Scotch at the Costco on Charleston--and they have some nice selections, at least the last time I checked).

Ray: I have a copy of Needles guidebook you could borrow for your trip, provided I get it back. Since I live in Vancouver, WA, it would be on your way south. If you have not located another book prior to your departure, let me know. We could meet right off the highway, or, if not in a huge hurry, grab a beer . . . .

About two years ago, I saw a guy with a prosthetic leg doing trad leads in the Lower Gorge at Smith. Not sure whether it was above, or below, the knee, but I recall that he changed out his "walking foot" for a "climbing foot." And let me tell you, he was climbing well. Leading 10a and 10b--which is no pushover on Smith's columnar basalt. Best of luck to you! Your positive attitude will take you far . . . and high!

Notwithstanding the obligatory digressions, this is a good topic. I am a proponent of single-push tactics--originally out of necessity--but now more as a preference. Single-push tactics are refined through experience, and are always evolutionary (I learn something new every time). As with any mountaineering, one's experience base allows progression to greater challenges. As I complete more single push climbs, I find that my partners and I become more adept at dealing with the issues of sleep deprivation, hunger, thirst, fatigue. (Granted, some partners have simply disliked the experience, and choose not to climb in this style, but many have found it their preferrable method of approaching a climb). There was a time, not so long ago, that I carried every damn thing I could stuff into my pack. I was prepared for any eventuality . . . except moving fast. A nasty ankle injury, a few years back, prohibits the slow-and-heavy option. For me, it was just an adaptation, and now I would not choose to go slow-and-heavy, even if I could. Single-push tactics can still mean a variety of different things: Everything from a non-stop blitz, to a lightweight, fast-paced ascent with interrim rest stops. And the rest stops could be short food/water breaks, or even quick bivies. But the common thread of the single push style seems to be (for me, at least) TO REDUCE the overall weight carried as much as possible, so as TO INCREASE speed as much as possible, so as to be in the danger zone as short as possible. (And . . . of course . . . so as to get back to the vehicle before my ankle seizes up). Though the surgeons and orthopedic specialists warned me that it would no longer be realistic, I am proud to say that the following are routes I have accomplished in single push, car-to-car efforts, ranging from 18-36 hours: Jefferson Park Glacier, North Ridge of Baker, Adams Glacier, Southeast Spur of North Sister, Scimitar Glacier of Glacier Peak, Hotlum Headwall Ice Gully of Shasta. I hope to continue adding to that list . . . .

Anyone know how far you can currently drive up the road/how close you can get to the TH?

A few of my all-time favorite 10bs: Orange Sunshine (Royal Columns, Tieton) Badfinger (Lower Gorge, Smith) Caught Inside on a Big Set (Big Horn Mating Grotto, Joshua Tree) Illusion Dweller (Sentinel, Joshua Tree) Beefeater (Holdout, Vedauwoo) Orbital Ridge (Poland Hill, Vedauwoo)

Evil Dead II. "I'll swallow your soul, I'll swallow your soul," howls the decomposing girlfriend, emerging from between the broken floorboards. "SWALLOW THIS!!" replies Bruce Campbell (king of the B-movies), as he thrusts a sawed-off shotgun in the general direction of her soon-to-be-splattered head and neck region. Very memorable, classic, B-movie scene! It's a wonder more women aren't fans of the Evil Dead trilogy . . . .