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ScottP

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Everything posted by ScottP

  1. quote: Originally posted by Rafael H: OK, now list them. Seriously. Only please leave the Vantage Choss alone. I know this is going to get some hackles up, but there was a time when Little Si wasn't a sport climbing area. A couple of friends and I climbed the crack routes there before the place was mobbed. Anyway, at Little Si, Amphetamines and Reptiles can be well protected without the bolts.
  2. The first pitch of the Golden Arch at Index (the one off the ground) is a good, fairly easy aid pitch. Has good placements, a camhook move or two, and more good placements. Try to avoid free routes that get a lot of traffic. (Godzilla, Thin Fingers, Davis Holland, etc.) [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 10-05-2001).]
  3. The following comment is the perfect example of why beginners should be wary of what they read on such resources as this website. "If a 'biner snaps, your fall increases, but you still live." I'd add to that a strong "maybe". [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 10-08-2001).]
  4. ScottP

    Helmets

    quote: Originally posted by EddieE: So here's a question: What do you guys do when someone yells "Rock!" Do you: 1) Look up to see if you can avoid it, and catch it in the teeth? 2) Duck your head knowing that the single baseball sized rock that's Plinko-ing down the gully will land right where you're standing...but on top of your helmet? [This message has been edited by EddieE (edited 10-02-2001).] I tend to look up. Probably not a good idea, but then a baseball sized rock travelling at, or near, terminal velocity is probably not going to be stopped by the top of a helment.
  5. The first time I went into Boston Basin, we arrived at the trail head after dark, so decided to sleep there. Sometime during the night I was awakened by the sound of the world coming to the end. By the time it was over, I was standing in the middle of the road with my headlamp sweeping about trying to find out what it was that was about to bury me. It wasn't until the sun came up (after not sleeping for the rest of the night) that I looked up to see the source of the midnight terror.
  6. quote: Originally posted by Charlie: damn you guys for reoppening this thread, im trying to forget about it. scott- you know exactly what the caveman meant(a 5.8 at those places is of similar difficulty as one in yosemite) stop antagonizing him. I did not know what he meant and I'm not antogaonizing anybody. Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I found a lot of the ratings are pretty close at Lworth and Index as well as Tieton since they match Yosemite. The ratings at those three areas are similar because they match Yosemite? That didn't make sense to me so I asked for clarification. If I wanted to antagonize I would have said something like, "Yeah, right. Show me a 5.6 chimney pitch at any of those locations that is of the same difficulty as those on the upper DNB." But I didn't.
  7. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I found a lot of the ratings are pretty close at Lworth and Index as well as Tieton since they match Yosemite. I'm curious as to what you mean by "since they match Yosemite".
  8. slander n. 1.Oral communication of false statements injurious to a person's reputation. libel n. 1. A false publication in writing, printing, or typewriting or in signs or pictures that maliciously damages a person's reputation.
  9. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Scottp who cares what he was toproping. B] I was merely putting the meetings in context. What routes were being done had nothing to do with my comment.
  10. quote: Originally posted by Alpine Tom: I don't think that Mallory was being facetious with his "because it's there" justification for climbing Mt. Everest. The full context of the remark begins with him saying, (to paraphrase) "We justify the desire to climb Everest in terms of gaining scientific knowledge about physiology and geology and try to find fossils high in the rock. But we know that’s a ruse, we want to climb it simply because it's there." B] I've read an account that is somewhat different than yours. Mallory was on a lecture tour after the 1922 expedition, trying to raise money for the 1924 attempt. Everywhere he went, he was asked mundane questions like: Was it cold? Where is Tibet? Why do you want to climb Everest? In exasperation, and not meaning to be taken seriously, he replied to the latter, "Because it is there." Perhaps your quote comes form subsequent attempts to explain himself. I don't know, I wasn't there.
  11. quote: Originally posted by haireball: "Because it's there" - ain't that about the goofiest thing we ever heard? and he wasn't talkin' about no boulder... He was being facetious.
  12. quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: Who is a bigger trailer trash slut - Kitty, or Chris Boskoff? Having had the opportunity to meet both Kitty and "crazyjz" (Kitty was on Centerfold with John Krakauer right behind Der Cobb and me. "crazyjz was toproping at Bruce's Boulder.), I would have to say that from my first impressions, "crazyjz" is the bigger trailer trash (What's with that neon orange?).
  13. pope wrote: "I once climbed Cutthroat Peak's South Buttress with this broad...." I once climbed a route with a "broad" at Squamish. I lead up the first pitch, clipped the anchor, and call to her to start climbing as she is out of sight. She starts climbing and I start taking in rope. After a time she calls for slack, so I give her some. Then she calls for more so I give her more. This goes on for a while until I realize that something is up. I loosen the clove hitch on the anchor and move to where I can see her. She has climbed past like the first three pieces of pro and will surely deck if she comes off. I calmly ask her if she can downclimb to which she replies in the negative. I calmly ask her to climb down to the piece she just passed and clip into it. Once she does, I am just able to lower her to the ground against the rope drag. It took a while to figure out how to sort out the resultant clusterfuck. She was kind of new to the sport.
  14. Skiing up to Camp Muir one sunny spring day, I was passed by two jarheads (military-types) sporting nothing more than shorts, chuka boots, sunglasses, and severe sunburns on their backs. Dangling over each of their shoulders was a loop of goldline with a handful of steel carabiners and pitons clipped to it.
  15. Like one, that on a lonesome road Doth walk in fear and dread, And having once turned round, walks on And turns no more his head; Because he knows a frightful fiend Doth close behind him tread. Coleridge, The Ancient Mariner
  16. ScottP

    The Newbie Salute

    We were all one at one time...
  17. quote: Originally posted by haireball: trivia quiz - who the hell were Herb & Jan Conn? Many first ascents in the Needles (Black Hills)
  18. I set up a toprope for Lisa Gnade on Model Worker at Index. I skiied past Fred on the way up to Camp Muir...he glared at me (swoon) I've climbed extensively with Robert Cobb. He knows everybody.
  19. "Blood is an indicator of poor technique" Jim Bridwell (I think)
  20. A completely naked, beautiful woman sponge bathing herself on the shore of upper canyon creek lakes in the Trinity Alps of N CA. We were approaching stonehouse wall and were stunned by the sight. As we walked past, she nonchalantly said, "Hello."
  21. "Blood is an indicator of poor technique." -Jim Bridwell (I think)
  22. I've done the first and second pitches a couple of times now. The crux has eluded me once due to rain and once for being a weaney. The belay at the top of the arch pitch has at least one 3/8ths bolt and two or three old 1/4 inchers. the hooking fromt here is not obvious. I could find no batholes to get over to the flakes from the belay and didn't relish a swing into the corner if I came off. (I have since figured that a little slack would produce less of a swing and the drop is clean)Once at the flakes, the rest of the pitch to the turn at the corner looks very straightforward. I hammered a couple of angles in the arch pitch itself, and found larger cam hooks useful on the first pitch (the first time I din't have them and had to free climb left past some funk in my wall boots) I wish I had more to offer.
  23. "Trad" Something I had been doing for more than a decade suddenly was "trad" climbing. I hate that.
  24. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Deal and Oh I aint Tshirt man either in case you were wonderin... You know, actually I was thinking, "hmm, iwonderifthatistshirtman."
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