syudla

Yup, that was us. Congrats on the route!

Trip: Fairview Dome -Regular route. Date: 6/25/2007 Trip Report: Nice route. Only a bit of wetness on P1. Soloed from the top of P6. Took too much gear. P2 P4

Jedi, did we meet you up there? We were the old guys trying to do Cassin and never got the weather in our admittedly short window. Ended up trying the one day push over the upper rib. I think we just dont have the patience anymore. Mark and Colin, great job!

Yes. I chopped for a good 30 min (well it seemed that long)Trying to get over the 'shrund of the mini-moonflower last month.

Trip: Mt. Whitney - East Buttress Date: 6/20/2007 Trip Report: Decided to do this route solo on my way home from work. Left the Portal 5:15 am. Back at Portal a little before 3pm. Faster than I thought, funner than I thought. Looking up route. Looking down route. The Peewee stalactite. Gear Notes: Approach boots, Rock shoes Approach Notes: N. fork

Spilt east couloir is not a summer type ice route. It generally forms in early winter with an early snowfall and melt freeze cycle. More predictions FWIW: Left Mendel will probably not come in this year on the crux bulges. Mendel right will be in early and thin or rock in the top several hundred ft. U and V should have ice by August Gilbert will be thin but climbable in the middle by August. Thompson in early. Humphreys, early melt out. Bottom line...early season. Maybe.

I have the eVent south col, and the winter bivy. As you probably do/will, I use the winter bivy in AK, (cold dry) conditions and the south col when i can expect liquid precip. My only complaint about the S. col is that it lets blown snow or rain in at the junction of the side zip and top zip. Lay with your head to the wind whenever feasible. (eVent is da bomb!)

Goddamit I wish I was still a local...

warcraft

Naw, really, just fukin whichya. 8D

The winter route on LPP is already melted out this year. Whitney EF is very doable in early May.Pons is prolly a good call.

Funny, of course, we all assumed you were older than me when you, Syudla, Crazy JZ, and I met on the King's porch at Bluff Lake, what...almost three years ago? And now its just months before I hit 5.0

Used to make the oldest take off his socks and stuff them in his mouth.

I talked to TAT yesterday. Same conditions as above.

Climbed there Thur and Fri 3/1-3/2. Routes are in good shape with the main wall being the leanest. Broke fresh trail thur on skis and went in fri on snowshoes. One other party on Fri and they postholed badly without flotation. There will be hordes of folks over the weekend so will prolly be bootable by Sun-mon. Bard Harrington receiving afternoon sun for about an hour. In order of wall length: Chouinard ~ a short pitch Main Wall ~1.5 pitches Bard-Harrington, ~ 3 pitches. Have fun.

Yes. And snowing again today.

The most delicious of ski conditions finally existed today.

Honestly the only reason I logged onto AMF was to see your new routes and pics from time to time. And the occasional informational post by Charlie etc. There is really very little useful info about Alaskan climbing there.

With an arm bar and a shindig.

Climbing has turned into one of the worst rags ever. I long for the days of Off Belay and Summit. Particularly the latter.

What a great route name. Cool line.

No, nutrients are found in middle earth and are the offspring off old tree Ents.

Alpinists. ...enjoy suffering so much they bring it in the bedroom. You dont expect me to chase down a coyote do you?

So what were the instructions? I've done it with the strap.

Ails whats good for ya