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robert

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Everything posted by robert

  1. Climb: Mt. Baker-Coleman-Deming Date of Climb: 5/29/2005 Trip Report: After our climb of Hood last month the girls were ready for their first big climb. My wife was sick so it was just the three girls from our Camp Fire group and me. We arrived at the trailhead around noon and after some last minute packing were on our way up the thankfully shady Heliotrope Ridge trail. Despite the hot temps the stream crossings were no big deal and we were soon ascending snow patches and trail up to the Hogsback camps. We headed up the snout of the Coleman to the rocks to the right of the cattle path where TrailPair had found some flat ground next to some running water. Running water at almost 7000’ score! That saved hours of melting snow for four people. As we were setting up camp I asked if the girls had ever done any backpacking. They hadn’t. This was their first time camping more than a few feet from a car. You never would have known it as they handled their packs with aplomb on the approach, but that is pretty typical for them. We were in bed just after 7:00 pm and up and climbing by 2:30 am. The route on the Coleman is pretty direct right now, though there is one crevasse just below the col at 9000’ that is probably open by now. On the decent I saw that someone looked to have put a leg through at some point in time. No big deal as it will be easily rounded on the left. We took a short break at the base of the Roman Wall to give the groups ahead of us some space and then we started up. The snow was just starting to refreeze, but the big steps made crampons unnecessary. We climbed the wall in the shade stepping into the sun on the summit plateau on a beautiful morning. We chatted with TrailPair and a couple of other groups on the summit and enjoyed lounging around in the warm sun and very light wind. The decent was equally straightforward transitioning from firm snow with good steps on the wall to shin deep slush on the football field just below our camp. Packed up and got in a good glissade to the Hogsback and some standing glissades on the slopes below. After a quick hike back to the car it was down to Glacier for some ice cream. It was a great weekend in the hills. Gear Notes: Ice Axe, Trekking Poles, had crampons didn't use them. Approach Notes: Stream crossings straight forward even in the heat of the day. Some patchy snow below 6000', but not much.
  2. Nice trip. It is great that the weather cooperated given the long approach from Arizona.
  3. Marie, If you post a picture to the photo gallery you can then use the UBB Image code to insert it into your post. It will prompt you for a URL and you can use the URL of the image by right clicking the image in the gallery and choosing properties. It will give you a URL that looks like http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/14unbelieve-med.jpg. I hope that your dog recovers quickly from whichever surgery you choose. Robert
  4. Man, it is sounding down right crowded. I will be up there with a group of eight including some teenagers so we will be pretty easy to spot. Are you guys planning to camp at the Hogsback or the Black Buttes? We will be at the Buttes. Given the high temps I am thinking that we will be out of camp by 2am.
  5. Thanks for the report. Sounds like a good trip. I am jealous of the people who are able to get out in this great weather this week. Of course, it is supposed to crap out for the weekend. Do you have any pictures. I have been thinking about trying the Adams Glacier.
  6. This thread was one of the first things I thought of when I heard that there were hikers missing after their trip to Camp Muir. You have to be careful and go in good weather. I expect that they would have been fine if the weather had been better.
  7. I hope that this quote "To be on a mountain in spring, that's pretty iffy," Fristad said. was taken out of context. While there was a significant danger last weekend advising against climbing in spring seems a bit strong. I wonder what she would say about climbing in the winter. Never the less, be careful out there.
  8. It is true that Sony is really popular, but unlike Tommy it is more about features and quality than wearing the logo. You have to get what makes everyone happy.
  9. I just picked up a Mammut Genesis and it has a middle mark on it. You don't have to find a duodes rope to have the middle factory marked.
  10. We also almost bought the Canon, but the thought of buying a video camera that didn't shoot good video did sit well. It sounds so good. The features are great and the price is right, but if the quality is poor there not much reason to buy it in my opinion. We ended up with a Sony. The model has been discontinued, but it is comparable to the DCR-H32. We like it. Buying it in Japan could save some money, but unless your son speaks Japanese it might not be as easy or as cheap as buying it online.
  11. Given the possibility of hearing loss I would go to the doctor.
  12. Loss of control has more to do with the catheter you get for an epidural or a c-section than with birth. That is what they told us in the labor and delivery class anyway. Given that I would think that climbing or any other would have no effect on the likelyhood of having a problem.
  13. This is a good point whether she is climbing or not. The combination of the extra weight and the loose joints means that she needs to be careful the last few weeks. My wife blew out her ACL 6 days before our daughter was born. She wasn't doing anything crazy, she just stumbled stepping off of a broken curb.
  14. Excellent work guys. There is something so satisfying about attempting and climbing a route about which you know nothing. It sounds like it ended up being a really great climb. Do you have any more photos?
  15. I don't doubt that it can be done. I imagine that it can be done safely, but for us it was the risk/reward that just didn't justify it. Everyone is different. If the patient wants to get after it go for it. It is probably good motivation not to fall. She is a fantastic child.
  16. I am not a mother, but my wife is. When she was pregnant we asked about what activities were ok and roped climbing was one that her OB said was not a good idea. It might be ok until the baby is big enough that you are showing and your regular harness won't fit, but given the consequences of a problem I would stick to other activities. My wife hiked St. Helens at 5 months and was still trail hiking after 7 months, but I know sportos don't hike so you might need to find a less violent hobby for a few months. You should be able to start right back in after the baby. I bet your redpoint level will drop until you loose the baby weight, but milk production burns 300 calories per day, so you won't have to work too hard. Congratulations. Parenthood is awesome. My daughter is almost two and she climbs everything in the house. We are going to be taking her to the UW wall for some bouldering soon. As a total aside, she refers to herself in the third person. It is quite funny as I am sure you will appreciate.
  17. Thanks guys. That is what I thought. This should make her feel better.
  18. If cascadeclimbers.com is on the safe list the emails do get through. If not, they go to junk. If you do want a gmail account you need to find someone who has one and can invite you or get on the information list.
  19. My wife and I climbed Mt. Hood three weeks ago and her feet got pretty cold. Most of her toes were numb for a few hours and the feeling in one of her big toes has still not come back. I have had the tips of my fingers numb for a couple of days after getting them really cold, but never for three weeks. Anyone have similar persistent numbness? Did it eventually get better or is it permanent?
  20. If I only got 11/16 I would be spending time getting better at telling them apart. I would rather misconjugate a verb in Portuguese than get conjugal with a mistake. 16 out of 16
  21. I was climbing with a partner who had the Myo 5. I could see better with his light shining from 50 feet behind me than I could with my old headlamp. I bought one as soon as I got home. The main light is so bright. I love it.
  22. You might look at one of the pay as you go plans. There were plans that didn't include any minutes, but I don't know if they are still available. The deal was you paid a small monthly fee to have the phone and then something for every minute you used. They were better if you talked less than about 75 minutes a month. When you are looking at plans consider that almost all of them come with free long distance. It may be that you could use the cell phone to save money on your home long distance bill. We never make long distance calls from our home phone anymore.
  23. What about the phase which occurs during all of the other phases and involves pinchy?
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