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backcountrydog

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Everything posted by backcountrydog

  1. well... i just got a ticket for no pass. ive gone all this time parking at MANY a trailhead w/out one, as i wish to boycott the 'demonstration program'. i tried to follow this post but the got tired of reading the crap about everything but forest passes. so, im putting the question out there, has anyone successfully got out of one of these tickets by using the "dont force me to vote 'yes' by buying a pass" plea?? ive signed the petitions, called and stated my opposition to state reps., etc. so ive gone through the proper channels, filled out the proper forms blah blah blah. i think i know the answer, but someone pls tell me some good news.
  2. i did the standard (south) rt a couple years ago in just over 5 hrs solo, round trip. that was hanging out on top enjoying the incredible views for half hour or so too. the 'hazardous enigma' wasnt quite what i thought it would be. there were other sub 3 hr summits from wht i remember too. i havent read too many summit register entries that i ever doubted...none in fact. ever known anyone to chant falsley in a register?? id go up there again to climb that leaning tower. real cool looking
  3. i checked out the sharma thing...and i looked at the ice pic. there both cool if u ask me (which nobody has). so now im getting the hell off the computer and going climbing on rock so overhanging that no matter how hard it rains, its dry...oh ya, only an hour outside of the shcity too.
  4. its amazing anything got climbed w/out cell phones in the past. hahhaha maybe someone should make a long distance beacon that could ONLY be used in case of emergency. like avy beacon but for those that dont feel safe enough to go into backcountry w/out some assurance. if your calling from the summit u should expect getting some shit from other climbers. (if there are any around that got there w/out the use of a guide) just a thought but do u think that any of the cell phone climbers are also ones that bag on others for climbing sport, boulder, or whatever??
  5. from what ive read at times on this site and from what ive seen 'climbers' who post on this site act like at the crags...id say hugh is right on with SOME of his insults/accusations. i didnt read the post that got him kicked off (the thought it is pretty sick), but try not to talk too much shit because he might be more of a climber than those of you lining up to bash him on this site. and this is, or was, intended to be a climbing site right??
  6. i have had multiple 'bad attitude' experiences there. I have also witnessed other costumers being being given the 'god what a pain in the ass you are' attitude. its a bummer because i like the store and not all the employees are like that. i havent been in there in over a year
  7. if going solo... the betamid is smaller and lighter than megamid (2.5 lbs w/out floor) if u use trekking poles, which double as tent poles. the one draw back to not taking floor (another 1.5 lbs) is that if its buggy and the tent is staked low to ground, the condensation builds up quick so make sure your not up against one side. other than that...the betamid does fit the bill for a bomber, lightweight shelter. ps on the outside of betamid, on the twin peaks, r 2 loops that enable it to b pitched using rope between to trees, etc. if u dont use poles for hiking...megamid Might b the same way, not sure. ive used my betamid for 4 season use and love it.
  8. It goes clean on aid yet the sporty's don't like the commitment required to place gear on lead while free climbing. neither do "aid" climbers
  9. and quite acting like your some peaceful partaker of the herb. herb is about peace and chillin', not guns and marines
  10. christoper your a certified, A-#1, military issued dildo. if you and your BEEE-AWCH cant do your pissing and moaning out of everybody else's way or sight , then how did you manage to haul your sorry carcass all the way up to sahale. its only a 7 or 8 mile hike but thats a LONG way to go to be that much of a dumb-ass
  11. christoper your a certified, A-#1, military issued dildo. if you and your BEEE-AWCH cant do your pissing and moaning out of everybody else's way or sight , then how did you manage to haul your sorry carcass all the way up to sahale. its only a 7 or 8 mile hike but thats a LONG way to go to be that much of a dumb-ass
  12. jman after reading the whole thing through i see a lot of good points to your argument. you have somewhat of an extremists point of view (by todays standards). if the earth could be preserved in its natural state in areas of population concentration it would be a real tribute to the intelligence of our species. unfortunately, and most obviously, we are only intelligent when you compare us to lesser life forms on our planet. as a group, forget it. sub-groups, ya. but the whole enchilada...your dreaming. i think thats why you and your 'what right do you have' post piss me off so much. in the big picture, what is a bolt really hurting? what major impact does a climbing area really have? what is the general level of awareness of this group of users? as a climber, i have thought about this, as have many. but your not even a climber. your sitting on the outside looking in, choosing to find the negative. one thing that climbing satisfies in me, is some feeling that im getting away from poeple like you. you ARE the man. at least have some experience in the field your making judgements on. everthing we do as humans has an impact. did you drive your car to the mtns.? does the food you eat and the products you buy have packaging? do you use paper or wood products? how about petroleum? as humans we CANNOT live without affecting our environment. we feed on life in some way or another. in the big picture, climbing is a somewhat low impact activity. we dont throw budwiser cans at our areas (or even drink the shit for that matter), we arent using motor powered vehicles for climbing rocks, and from my 10 yrs of climbing , i would say that Most climbers care about their environment (even those that put in bolts). if your biggest bitch is about a bolt that 99% of the population will never see, doesnt that clue you in on the fact that we're not the big bad user group you want us to be? go fight to save old growth, or caribou, or whatever is in danger of becoming extinct. by all the posts responding to yours, you should see that climbers dont need you and your inexperienced point of view. you said that you were thinking of going out and buying a rack of draws and going climbing. you should. it might be the best thing you could do. and yes, there is a difference between bolting and all of those ridiculous examples you gave in the beginning.
  13. pope, turn off your computer and go climbing.
  14. hey will what kind of bindings are you using on your board? i have a split board and want to switch to plastic boots and a wire binding. i was thinking of invernos and the voile wire binding. any experience with either?? or how the handling is with this setup?
  15. maybe the rangers in question consider themselves 'hardcore trad rangers'. maybe they think that anyone who needs a register to sign at the top of some mtn., just to show they did it, is a pussy. maybe the 'leave no trace' (except the 'trace' they justify) ethic is something they feel strongly about. most 'hardcore "fill-in-the-blank"-ers feel strongly about something. personally i like reading, and signing, registers. its part of climbing history. much the same way that pitons, bolts, cams, and the I'm-a-climber-and-I'm-right arguments are a part of climbing history. since the rangers work where we play, we have to deal with their opinions. i just hope that the ideas and actions of the cascade rangers arent as extreme as some of the bolt gridders/bolt choppers in the climbing community. maybe there is a cascaderangers bulletin board with all kinds of bashings about pussy, 'user', climber types...
  16. if the bolts your pulling out are expansion studs they can sometimes be coerced by tightening (overtightening) them. this is what you are warned against when installing. combine tightening with loosening and gentle prying with a crowbar. if the bolt is badly rusted or the threads are shot you run the risk of the bolt breaking off. but most really old bolts come out surprisingly easy a lot of times. the are several articles in the mags (as previously suggested) with lots of experienced based insight. you can put a new 3/8 in an old 3/8 hole. most old 3/8 seem to be 3inches or less in length so by using a longer shank you can facilitate the same hole (preferred). stainless steel is better than galvanized, colored hardware over shiny steel, and fixe makes a sweet 3 bolt, 1 rap ring 2 ss permanant biner, anchor system as mattp suggested. as far as removing old bolts, bring a wrench and a prybar and go slow and most of the time you can work the old bolt out
  17. hey cc sounds like quite a trip. from your description it kind of sounds like you were on the sw face but your concern of being blown out on the north side of the gully makes me wonder since the rap for the sw face is already on the n side of the gully. maybe you meant the east side of the gully or were on a different rte. just wondering and good job, whatever rte, in those conditions.
  18. W- your replies are well put and i wish the would-be choppers would take your ideas to heart. the fact is that climbers can be ignorant and climbers can act as if they are the star of the whole show and the rest of the climbing community is just the audience. stonewall might be one of those people as his replies show that he is NOT hearing what you're saying and is very excited about the thought of chopping a route that he hasn't climbed but has deemed over bolted. as long as this kind of ignorance has energy behind it, we run the risk of having wa pass turn into a boulder, co. stonewall, maybe you would understand it this way. if someone with a bosch had the same attitude about bolting that you do about chopping, the both of you could spend the next 20 yrs turning every crag in wa. into shit. and dont even think that you saying "i'll just keep chopping until everyone does things my way" will put an end to the bolts going in. that has never worked and the more conflict you create the more negative attention you bring the rocks and those of us who climb them. why dont we all just wait and see if a) the route is in fact over bolted (which NO ONE can confirm yet, and b) if it can even be called a sport route (which NO ONE can confirm, bolts alone dont make it so, (look at static point or the apron of yosemite, not exactly clip ups)). face climbing is as much a part of climbing as crack climbing and there IS room for both. there are too many climbers now that arent on the far right or the far left. and STILL, no one can confirm that the bolts are being placed on rappel. so to the first ascentionest, if your not over bolting and you want to dodge the rap-bolt bullet, put the bolts in on lead and if it gets hairy, just use a favorite trad/aid technique and drill/chip a comfortable hook placement to bolt from
  19. true W, true... my post was not directed at you and i agree with what you say. bolting a piece of rock is serious business and your suggestion of soul searching should be taken to heart by everyone. but, it doesnt sound like very many of the opinionated climbers responding here have actually talked to the first (or soon to be first upon completion) ascentionest to know where they are coming from. maybe it is a line that has classic written all over it that nearly everyone who climbs it will enjoy. maybe the FA's have been scoping that line since they started climbing 15 yrs ago, and went a 'sacred, soul searching pilgramage' before one single bolt was put in. the fact is the most people who are assuming the worst case scenario (bolts every 3 feet) dont know. the are just running to their biggest fear (which inevitably creates it). we cannot prevent every terrible act from happening in the climbing world. we can however, learn from our mistakes and the mistakes of others to prevent us from screwing everything up. and my whole point being that learning involves being out in it, seeing the route, and actually climbing. if it ends up being some shwag, over bolted, choss heap of a route, with chain links for bolts, well then, we all have a model to show what we dont want to happen and hopefully through that experience, wont keep happening.
  20. wow... this is amazing. maybe i missed something (but i read it all twice). it seems that of all those replying, only a very few of you have even seen the route or routes in question, let alone (god forbid) actually climb the f-ing thing. does the analogy of hens in coop come to anyone's mind. so many climbers flapping their holes, so few climbers actually climbing. and just to shut up any would-be protesters to this post--of course we shouldnt just sit back and let the wilderness be grid bolted. but that is NOT happening at wa pass and i AM talking from experience. get used to bolts, there here and here to stay, and the only thing worse than bolting a crack is chopping bolts. putting a bolt in an area protectable by gear is an act of ignorance but to chop someones route is the act of a spiteful ego with no consideration for the rock or the scars left. especially since the chopper is more often than not someone who claims to be smarter than the bolter. at the very least... shut the f up unless you know what the subject is (and its not whether bolts should be allowed at wa pass)
  21. i dont think mike was putting in bolts that he thought were going to break. but i dont think safety was the only issue, (see-"not an A1 industrial climb"). but your comment on trying to make the climb easier or harder gets me thinking. the only way to make a bolt ladder harder, without moving the original bolt hole, would be to put in something that had the potential to fail. im pretty sure he didnt move the holes, he just didnt want to make an "A1 industrial climb", therefore, the 1/4 inchers. and my point was that to prevent unnecessary replacing of metal every 5 or 10 years, further scarring rock around the holes, just step in to the year 2001 and put in the bolts that OUR era of climbing has deemed the best for the job. the idea should be to preserve the rock and the climbing area, not the 1960's era 'metal of choice'. otherwise why dont we leave the rock alone and go practice sketchy bolt ladders on some man-made structure. as far as credit for coming clean on putting in sub-par bolts to begin with, your right, thanks for stepping up and taking responsibility. and once again, thanks for the time and effort in replacing what needed to be replaced.
  22. wallstein, if i may, a couple of things, 1) thanks for putting in the effort to replace what needed replacing. 2) when the route was put up, the bolters were using what was, at the time and of course, within reason, the best tools for the job. 1/4 inchers were the standard. they didnt take that long to drill and its what climbers of that era were using. im sure they werent laughing with each other at the thought of these bolts breaking or pulling out, sometimes under body weight, on the generation of climbers to follow. if they had bosch's, and the ability to see the future, 3/8 might have been the choice. the point is that they didnt take it upon themselves to contrive some mix of metal so that THEY could give following climbers something to be afraid of as they clip a chunk of metal. the exciting part isnt supposed to be the bolt ladder. dont take it upon yourself to modify or affect the fear factor of an existing climb (especially a classic) so that it can seem like its 1966. none of the other gear you use or slings replaced on most climbs from year to year is from 1966, why the bolts? its 2001, not 1966 and bolting responsibly should mean that if your going to put a bolt with a hanger in the rock, put in a good one. you'll make more friends doing that than tying up the belays pounding metal for weeks on one of our classics, all the while thinking way too much about what you want everybody else's climbing experience to be. there is a bolt ladder there to span a section of rock, and your not going to turn an A2 into an A1 by putting good bolts in the A1 bolt ladder. im glad your replacing the mank up there with what you should have the first time (and not 1/4 in x 3/8 dowlels or something). plus it offers the option of free climbing without someone changing it further. those bolts broke because 1/4 inchers suck, regardless of who OK'd them. if you need a bolts or hangers or a partner with a drill, ill donate.
  23. smoots-climbing the cascade volcanoes has the scoop on all the summits. FS and NP info-www.r5.fs.fed.us/shastatrinity cascade volcanoes general -www.shastahome.com safe travels and let us know how it was.
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