Tod

Here's a TR and details on a trip I did in late March of of 2001. I did the same trip again in April of 2002 with similar snow conditions (snow starting at the end of what used to be the road). Snowking 3/24 TR Link

In my circuit last year from Little Jack to the base of Jack to Crater and back down via the Crater trail it sure seemed easier and faster to be on the Crater side.... After going up Little Jack twice last year for short some traverses and attempts I never intend to go back up to Little Jack again in order to access Jack; the traverse over to Jack from Little Jack sucks...

I ran across a group one time who had rapped off the SE Ridge and they felt that it was much quicker than heading back down the NE Ridge (however two ropes were necessary for the overhang section of the rappel). The person was MtnHigh who said:

Klenke's math is pretty much dead on and shows that TOPO isn't necessarily correct. It's a helpful tool, but don't rely on it because there are too many variables between you, the computer and the map. As an example, here's what I got doing the same profile:

A few other notes courtesy Roper: -Terror is the bump on the left ridge of West Mac -Degenhardt top is under the "r." -Shuksan is poking out to the right of East Mac

Where is the full res picture?

-What is labeled as Inspiration Peak should be West McMillan Spire. -What is labeled as McMillan Spire is East McMillan Spire. -From this angle Inspiration Peak and Degenhardt are almost in line with each other and sort of blend in together. -The double tipped peak just to the right of the summit of Degenhardt is Inspiration (under the "dt" of your label "Degenhardt"). The left (west) tip is the summit of Inspiration. Kind of odd you can't actually see Azure Lake in the photo. John Roper would be the best authority on getting the right names on the right points, it's his backyard. John? John are you out there?

You could could always combine the photos as such.... It would be an altered image in some books, however combining the two can be an easy way to enhance your photo to look like what you may have seen or percieved through your own eyes.

A cool post revisted... Klenke, IMHO I think Maude-SFJ-Fernow-Copper could be done in a day (from a single starting point/camp). -Camp at Ice Lakes or somewhere east of Maude -Climb Maude's South Shoulder -Descend via the West Gulley -Climb SFJ via the SW Slope -Descend SW slope and traverse over/around to Fernow -Climb Fernow via the SW Route -Descend via East Ridge -Go over East Ridge col to Copper Creek Basin -Climb Copper via East Face -Descend Copper via East Face -Go over East Ridge col to Entiat Glacier and over to Ice Lakes I've seen/heard of enough people doing Maude-SFJ and Maude-SFJ-Fernow car to car, I don't see why adding Copper with a camp somewhere nearby wouldn't be doable. Tod

Great drawing! It should be noted that almost the whole area in Klenke's drawing is open terrain. It looks like it was scrubbed clean this last winter and now consists of gravel (on left) and debris (on right). The backwater has lot's of brush and not something you want to go through. The same morning that Klenke and Sergio came through, JB, Jerry and I used the 8 inch log with no trouble. We ended up going more left of the backwater area and then made easy traveling to the right and found the trail 10-20yds later heading north. On the way back we were still able to cross the 8 inch log even though the water was higher. The roots on the road side are good handholds and we could use our ski poles for easy balance most of the way across. Tod

You should have seen it before we got all our posts wiped out... I even got accused of namedropping... I didn't even notice that until just now. Another note about how different the crossing apparently is now. I was just looking at the aerial photo of the crossing: http://terraserver-usa.com/image.aspx?t=1&s=10&x=3193&y=26863&z=10&w=1 The large open gravel bar and log jam that I am describing is about the size if not bigger than the parking lot itself. The aerial photo doesn't show it at all so it looks as though the big rains this fall/winter changed the crossing quite a bit...

If that's the case, it's gone and looks incredibly different now. 50-100 meters downstream is a large open gravel bar and log jam. There are a couple of options for crossing, but none of them offer a large log that goes completely across the river as shown in the river.

We've got one person who knows what there talking about because they've been there a bunch in the last few years, and one person who who knows what they're talking about because they couldn't find the trail last week after looking for 2 hours in the brush. Maybe here's a little clarification from someone that was up there last week and didn't have any trouble finding the trail after crossing the creek.... From the parking lot I looked (in daylight) for the sign that would lead to a log crossing. I didn't look upstream from the gate so unless it's that direction the sign is gone. From all descriptions of years past, the creek crossing has changed quite a bit over the winter. And they don't quite match up to any sort of straightforward crossing as in the past. There is gravel bar and log jam 10-20 yds downstream from the parking lot. The trail from the parking lot to the river leads to a shallow crossing, but there is no good log to cross on there. From the same point you can look downstream 10-20 yds and see the start of the log jam and gravel bar. One thing is certain, once you have crossed the river, the trail is located DIRECTLY ACROSS from the parking lot. If I were to give my best guess about exactly where it is, it is across from the out house. There is no reason to fight your way up hill in order to find the trail, it goes to the edge of the river where the slide alder and devils club starts. If you cross the river at the log jam, get through the brush at the left (downstream) edge of the gravel bar, go right (up stream) for 10-20yds in the trees you'll find the trail easily. If you cross the river at the log jam and go left you'll get lost like people did last week. If you cross the river in the shallow bar where the trail is from the parking lot, then you'll want to go slightly left in order to find the trail. Also, the trail doesn't go left or right from the river, it goes straight. If anything it makes a slight (very slight) veer right from the river. The picture does not represent what the crossing looks like anymore. It is washed out with a gravel bar and log jam now. The only place where that could be now is slightly upstream from the parking lot? The trail is not elusive; if you don't find the trail right away, your going the wrong direction (either too far left, or you went too far right and found Eldorado Creek).. Let's just say that I didn't know where the trail was and I stumbled upon it a few yards after crossing the creek (at the log jam). I don't know how anybody would miss it....

My apologies to Klenke. I forgot to add that while JB and I were heading out on Sunday evening, Klenke was coming down from his summit of Klawatti also. The odd part of this whole trip is that we may have been a group of 5, but all of us were heading in different directions, at different speeds and to different peaks. The only time we all traveled as a group was up Primus.

Climb: Austera-Primus-Tricouni-Klawatti Tour/Climb- Date of Climb: 4/3/2004 Trip Report: So not to bore you with yet another TR of the Klawatti area I'll try and keep this short and interesting (i.e. pictures): Saturday 4/3/2004 - Jerry Sanchez, JB and I left the car at Eldorado Creek trailhead at 6:00am, got to Klawatti Col at 12:30pm. Sverdina and Klenke were heading up together separately and would meet us there later in the afternoon. After a 2-3 hour nap/eat/hydrate session we welcomed Sverdina to Klawatti Col and then headed off to climb Austera. After 1/2 hour we had skied over to and up the false summit of Austera and were admiring JoshK and partners wonderful artwork or tracks coming down Primus. It was an incredible view. We looked over the true summit that was across the way from us and I decided that I might as well take a closer look at the summit chimney that was full of ice and snow. After a false attempt using the rock on the right I climbed the chimney via 2-3 moves of mixed Class 4+ rock, snow and ice up the 10’ narrow section of the chimney. I’ve never like the sound of crampons on rock (kind of like nails on a chalkboard). The descent was about the same. By the time we got back to Klawatti Col Sverdina had finished his climb of Klawatti and Klenke was setting up their tent. Sunday 4/4/2004 - Jerry Sanchez, JB, Sverdina, Klenke and I left the Klawatti Col camp for Primus and within 2.5 hours was at the summit contemplating our descent(s). Jerry, JB and Klenke descended via the south route and followed their tracks back to Klawatti Col. Sverdina and I descended the east ridge of Primus (a sweet ride down! ) to Lucky Pass and climbed the west gulley/ridge of Tricouni to the summit (1 hour to the summit from Lucky Pass). From the summit we traversed across to the east shoulder of Tricouni and made our descent down below the North Klawatti Glacier icefall at 6,200’. From there was a long and tortureous climb back up and across three different glaciers to camp at Klawatti Col. JB and Jerry had been back for about 3 hours and had climbed and boarded back down the south face of Klawatti. JB and I had to be back in town Sunday night so we made tracks and were back at the car a half hour before dark. Meanwhile back at Klawatti Col…. Jerry, Sverdina and Klenke made a cozy camp and headed back to their car on Monday after doing some further skiing and recon around Austera. And now for the pictures! JB and Jerry on the Inspiration Glacier (Eldorado above) Klawatti Col Camp (Sverdina holding taking in the view) JB at Klawatti-Austera Col Forbidden Peak Jerry on the Klawatti Glacier Klawatti Glacier - Forbidden Peak Sverdina boarding the Klawatti Glacier JB and Jerry on the summit of Primus Eldorado Peak high above Austera and Tepeh towers The west gulley and ridge of Tricouni from Primus (Lucky Pass at bottom). Sverdina climbing the west ridge of Tricouni Peak Gear Notes: Skis and Splits Ice Axe (for Austera and Tricouni) Crampons (for Austera) Overnight bivy/camp gear Approach Notes: The Eldorado Creek approach is heinous. If your trying to find the trail, it's directly across the creek from where you park your car. There are a couple good places to cross 50 yds downstream from the cars. Once across, battle your way through the creek brush for 20-30 yds and then head right for 30 yds and you'll find the trail.

I was very impressed with your tracks coming down Primus. While you guys were making your last few turns off of Primus above the N Klawatti icefall I was just finishing my ski up to the false summit. That view from Austera to Primus is one of those "This is why you are here" views. I then watched one of you manage your way through an unexpected cliff band before you continued on. I was even more impressed seeing your tracks off of Tricouni's east shoulder the next morning. I spent a few minutes pondering at what time you guys were able to come off of Tricouni and make it down and across Klawatti Lake. Great job guys!

Snowking is a great spring tour also. Here's a picture: Here's a trip report: click me! The Chiwaukums are great for backcountry. Lot's of open terrain and great slopes. #50 in Burgdorfers book lists it pretty accurately. When we were back there we did the full traverse from Icicle to Hwy 2 and came out via the description for #50 in Burgdorfers book. The descent off of Snowgrass is pretty cool. There is a small notch that is at the top of the glacier, from that notch there is an 1100' descent down the glacier to the lake. Tod

Yeah, watched everything coming down in the Mt. Baker Ski Area backcountry. People were heading up through the gates in droves and getting some sweet tracks in very nice snow. 15" of snow from the last 48 hours and springtime temps and sun. By 11am small surface sluffs were coming down. By Noon three large 18" slabs had let loose across the ridge to the left and across from chair 8. We watched one of them sweep some guy down about 200 yards and then he dug himself out. The last one got the whole ski area to stop and watch. It broke at the first high point on the ridge closest to the chair right above the prominent cliff. It took the guy who set it off right with him over the cliff. I'm guessing the cliff is 100'+. He lucked out and was fine from I can tell. Not a good weekend to be hitting the backcountry where there was any fresh snow...

Kautz and Fuhrer Finger are probably the two best ones that come to mind. These don't involve as much crevasse danger as descents such as Emmons do. On a descent down the Kautz we were about 1/3 of the way down the ice chute/tounge and were able to find a ski route through the icefall that dropped us down on Camp Hazard. Pretty cool skiing a icy cravassed ramp with seracs towering over you and then suddenly end up skiing into Camp Hazard. No climbing back up from the base of the ice chute/tounge!

Very cool! Men's Journal - March 2004 "The 25 Toughest Guys in America" #4 - Mike "Gator" Gauthier Men's Journal Article Way to go Gator!

The skinny fir trees down low are pretty thick no matter how deep the snow is and the creek drainage is pretty steep in places, but then again I've only skied out that way. When are you planning on going Jerry?

The big difference is that he didn't know the area enough to realize that he completely missed the Alpental Backcountry. It wouldn't surprise me if he knew every chute and cliff in the Alpental BC, but he didn't know the area enough to know that he was heading down the wrong drainage. I agree, it will be interesting to hear the real story if it ever comes out. I don't think there is any smoking gun. It's not about whether he should have been skiing alone, or have a map or compass or the right gear. It's really about putting everything together and making the right decisions. It seems to me that he was a hardcore alpine/resort skier that didn't have the backcountry sense to know where he was or how to get back. He didn't make the right decisions and seems that he didn't have the backcountry sense to be out there in the first place. He knew how to keep himself alive under extreme circumstances and that's about it....

It does seem odd that he ended up where he was. It looks like he: Skied down/over to Hemlock Pass and then probably started going down to the NW and realized he was probably going the wrong direction and headed south and ended up going up and over the ridge to the lake. Each time he changed direction he ended up in a different drainage that was facing a completely different direction. Very disorienting. Two things that seem the oddest to me: - he went SW over the ridge from Denny Mountain (or the tooth or Hemlock Peak) instead of going the usual NE (100% wrong direction). - When he got to Hemlock pass (or nearby) he didn't hear the highway and head down in that direction. Instead he went the other direction (100% wrong direction). It can be a somewhat disorienting area because you are actually in a completely different drainage (two drainages over on the into the Pratt River/North Fork Snoqualmie drainage). It's pretty amazing that SAR even contemplated looking in that area. I'm probably stating the obvious; overall it seems he was completely disoriented because he probably didn't know the area at all and had no idea what was north or south or where the highway is/runs in relation to Alpental (nor did he take the necessary steps to orient himself when he had the chance). Not a place to be by yourself. The guy is lucky and a hard*ss. Good for him for having the strength and skill and motivation to stay alive.

The OR Gripper glvoes work great. They are much more durable than standard windstopper gloves because they wrap the gripper part around the first two fingers. I've used OR Gripper gloves for B/C, mtneering, hiking, climbing, ice, etc. They're durable, keep the wind out and keep your hands relatively warm as long as you keep them dry. I think they are $69... There's also a ton of other high end cilmbing windstopper gloves from various other companies that are probably just as good....

The padded chest packs work great for SLR's. I use a SunDog SunDog Action Telezoom Camera Chest Pack with the separate harness system. The harness let's me take my pack off without having to take the chest pack off. I don't think SunDog is around anymore so the next best thing is probably the LowePro equipment. For me the padded chest packs let me take photos under most any condition, except higher grade rock climbing, it get's in the way. If you have an SLR stored in your pack it's almost dead weight. To justify the weight you should be able to take pictures on the fly. If you can't have your SLR accessible a good P&S will get more use. Some other things about taking your SLR on climbs: Cameras are more durable and weather resistant than most people realize. Don't be afraid to take your camera out during a storm, that's where some of your best shots may come from. Most any good camera and lens have great seals and can handle a lot of moisture. If the camera is plastered in snow, brush it off and keep shooting. As far as durability, if you've got your camera in a padded case, it'll take a beating. When in it's padded case my Canon A2e surprises me a lot. I've fallen on it, I've drug it up behind me on a haul line, I've exposed it to driving rain and snowstorms, I've abused it more than I care to admit but it still looks and operates great. Digital: Right now I'm still using Fuji Provia 100F or Velvia because in the end it still takes a better picture. Quality slide film can still create a higher resolution photo than digital cameras. However, in order to get that higher quality photo into a digital medium you need to get a high quality scan (drum scan) otherwise all you have is a high quality photo turned into a low quality digital image. If your using print film, low quality slide film or a low quality scanner then you're better off with digital. Because of these reasons it doesn't surprise me that most people get better images on their computer with a digital camera. The great thing about digital is that for the average photographer, they can now take better and more pictures than they ever have been able to do before. For photographer who is still looking for the top edge in photos that they can make large prints of, high end digital cameras still don't have the resolution capability. That looks like it's going to change real quick. Canon is on the cutting edge of resolution (11.1 megapixel) and could soon surpass the resolution capabilities of pro slide film. The digital cameras keep getting better and cheaper. I'll probably be getting one as my standard camera soon.... Tod