fredrogers

They do a great job with the funding they have. The link is a little bit buried on the NWAC site, but the Friends of the Northwest Avalanche Center have a user info exchange that is very helpful for more detailed reports from the field: http://www.avalanchenw.org/cgi-bin/search_reports.php

This is perhaps the most hilarious thing I have read in a while. Could not have called it any better myself.

Well, there is old Fun Rock in Mazama. Routes from "Mazama" 5.4-5.12 that are usually easy to set a TR on (certainly at the main climbing area, although you can set TR's elsewhere with some creativity or by leading 5.7-8).

Revivex makes a treatment specifically for softshells- works like a charm. Much better than anything from NikWax. Plus it's now owned by a local (B-ham) company. http://www.mcnett.com/ReviveX-Soft-Shell-Water-Repellent-P346.aspx

Okay, I'll bite. Here is the NWAC washington Pass telemetry data from Washington Pass, which shows as of this morning 22" of snow on the ground. I'm not very good at math, but I seem to recall that there are 12" in a foot. MM/DD Hour Temp Temp RH RH Wind Wind Wind Equip Hour Total Total PST F F % % Avg Max Dir Temp Prec. Prec. Snow 6630' 5500' 6630' 5500' 6630' 6630' 6630' 5500' 5500' 5500' 5500' 1 10 600 20 25 99 98 15 21 227 43 .01 .38 22 And to the point above, the 37 miles represents the closure from gate to gate and there is not 2-3' of snow for those entire 37 miles. When you live in an area largely dependent on tourism, having a main arterial close early is not a good thing. Hope that helps.

I suspect that this means the temporary closure will last until April or May. Rumor has been rife in the Methow that the DOT will call it good for the season at the first opportunity because budgets have followed the economy into the shitter. Yes, their mandate is "transportation not recreation" but this is most likely the 3rd preemptive closure of the pass in as many years. Years past the DOT did their best to keep it open until it was clearly a hazard. Don't like it? Well, here ya go. Let them know how you feel: The Washington State Department of Transportation¹s mission is to keep people and business moving by operating and improving the state¹s transportation systems vital to our taxpayers and communities. We take this mission seriously. We would like to know your opinion about how we are doing. Please take a few minutes to complete this brief survey. Your feedback will help us learn more about how we can improve our performance. Thanks! http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=Wb_2f_2b8KUThZx4qP0b5WGt3w_3d_3d

You should check out the line of BCA Stash packs from BCA with their Nalgene compatible hydration system- won't pop, leak, and the insulated shoulder sleeve works like a charm. The best part is that the bite valve twists to lock and I have never had it leak (locked or unlocked). I can't say that about any other hydration system. I super-sized my Nalgene to carry more H20 and with a .25 liter thermos of tea, I'm all set for a day our touring.

I work for Outward Bound- there are standard "open enrollment" courses which are not really designed for kids with serious behavioral issues (although I often joke every teen is at risk these days). He may very well benefit from an Intercept course, details can be found OB Intercept Courses here.

Excellent pack, especially for ice climbing. I have stuffed a weekend of touring gear into it and it did pretty well if packed right. Superlight.

Ah, fuck. He will be missed.

Where are you getting this info? I don't mean to be too obtuse- he is a good friend of mine and I want to know for sure.

Doug- what are you saying RIP? Do you know more than what is in the media?

Yup. The Noth Cascades have a nice coating of fresh today. Mt. Gardner looks pretty again.

I liked the Charmoz, they just aren't all that durable- I blew them out in a season and a half. I like the Triolets and have yet to make a dent in them after 2 seasons. I also bought a pair of Garmont Vetta lights this year and I love them- super lightweight, but definitely not super waterproof. You might also try the Garmont Towers- probably more hat you are looking for. I have wide flat feet and all of them have fit me well.

nothing but dirt, loose rock and goat poop at the moment. I've been up the route a few times recently and the first pitch stays in the shade until after 10 AM- chilly. FYI- there is a new bolted rap station for the second rap (you no longer use the poor tree). Have fun.

Funny. I ran into the same Matt at Fred's Lake on Friday night in my own shameless summit whoring- you did much better than me with angry knees forcing me to settle for Oscelola and a recon of Rollo. I'd go with spring steel legs. From our conversation, sounds like he gets out a lot. Super nice guy.

Yes. You can buy it at the Mazama Store, or in town at Trail's End bookstore. You can also pick up topos for Sisyphus outside the North Cascades Mountain Guides office in Mazama. But you should consider buying the book and help support Brian Burdo and all his work (along with a few other locals).

FWIW both lots are frequently patrolled by the Forrest Service looking for those evil parking pass violators. just get an early start and you should be fine. snow at 7,500' on Mt Gardner today.

I asked Scott for some more beta on tis myself. I know they approached via the Mudhole lake trail (small user trail accessed a short way up the Cedar Creek trail). He said it was a slog but didn't think there would be a better way to do it. You can email the North Cascades Mountain Guides office and they can put you in touch with him (I don't think Larry or Scott are on this site much).

Pfft to the haters. I love to see the pics if even it's a route with plenty of TRs- the one of Dragontail in the lake was sublime.

fun. 20-30 min approach. I usually skip the first "pitch" and scramble up the gully to the left (you won't miss any good climbing). you can link p 2-3 w a 60M. With a 70M you can link many of them. I take a mix of draws and runners (nice on the wandering pitches). Just one 60 M rope to get off. Tho' 13 or so raps. Take your approach shoes with you- you will want them for the scramble and the descent.

I just went in the Chewuch from 30 mile TH to the Mt. Remmel area. First 5-6 miles have a lot of blow down from the fires- no show stoppers, just takes a little time. Once you are past Basin Creek (about 6 miles) you are more or less home free. FWIW the Forrest Service is starting to clear the trail this week. You will want sandals for the 3-4 fords you will have to do.

Hey Marc- Nice way to graduate... as it were. From an middling old duffer, it's inspiring to see you getting after it. Continue to be safe. Looking forward to many years of TR's to come.

FYI- the approach to Glacier is now 12 miles of road hiking to the TH, Then the standard long ass approach.

I have climbed Shuksan many times (mostly by the Sulphide) and agree with the previous posts that the glacier will be quite dry/icy by September- on a normal year. We had a low snow year in the N Cascades this winter and my guesstimate is that it will be "worse" than normal earlier than normal this year. I have done the East Ridge and central gully route and think that the east ridge is a better way to go (the gully can be between 3rd and 5th class depending on which way you go) . Either way will feature loose rock and somewhat fiddly and occasionally run out protection. *Usually* you can rap from fixed stations down the gully- I have done it with a 30M glacier rope and found that adequate but you need to be prepared to supplement or create your own rap stations (don't trust what you find). All I have to go on is the posts in this thread, but it sounds like you might consider some glacier travel training before attempting this route. There are many companies that offer this in Washington (AAI, Mountain Madness, North Cascades Mountain Guides, etc). In the interest of full disclosure I work for North Cascades Mountain Guides and am familiar with both the guides and their ability to teach good skills for the do-it-yourselfer. Hopefully I am not making a crassly commercial post when I recommend the NCMG 3 day glacier travel training course from them. Hopefully other folks on this board can chime in with their experience with other companies so you can decide for your self if this is appropriate and which company may best suit your needs. Have fun!