fredrogers

Look up TimL on this forum. He's not in Madrid any more, but lived there for a few years and will have good beta.

I have had several pairs resoled there. Good, reasonable, and fast.

Hi Folks- with the impending opening of the highway, here a few updates for climbing around the Mazama area: 1. There is a new climbing shop, the Goat's Beard, located in the small building to the right of the Mazama store. It's well-stocked and CB and Micki are good folks and would appreciate any business. 2. The Honey Bucket at the Fun Rock parking lot had been supplied by the Outward Bound Basecamp for many years. The Washington Basecamp is closed for the 2013 season (if not permanently). So some locals, including the folks at North Cascade Mountain Guides and other local businesses (and hopefully the other guide services who use Fun) will fund a pooper for this summer. Once it's in place, if you feel like making a cash donation after making a different donation, please do so. Until it's in place the closest public facilities are the pit toilets at the T intersection or the Mazama store. It'd be a shame to see the same amount of tp flags and poorly buried poop reappear. 3. Most routes are dry and the road to Prospector has been plowed. 4. The snakes have yet to make their reappearance, although the suicide deer have. Use caution when driving at night or at dusk/dawn- where you see the "Deer 45MPH" signs, they are there for a reason. Happy climbing and skiing!

There is a fair amount of sport climbing in Mazama. Fun Rock and Prospector Crag have the highest concentration, although there is some uber-burly stuff at Firewall that is way over my head. Prime Rib (5.8 8ish pitches), Inspiration Route (5.9 5 pitches), Sisyphus (11a or 10B A0 10 pitches) are all high quality routes on Goat Wall. I hear good things about Restless Natives (11c or 10B A0) but have not been on it. Older routes tend to have fairer grades, newer routes are more "friendly" rated and bolted. There is loose rock on Goat Wall and Prospector Crag, helmets are a good idea anywhere, even at Fun Rock.... Serendipity Arete is all gear and a worthy day if the Liberty Bell area is crowded, although the interesting climbing is not sustained and it is much more of an adventure route and descent than anything at the Pass.

SW Coulior SW Early Winter Spire Mapleleaf Coulior on Copper Peak Both in the N Cascades in or near the Liberty Bell group. Pending Hwy 20 opening of course.

Joe check your site massages.

Check PMs on approach shoes.

For the record it's gated at Silverstar not down in Mazama. We'll see how long either the WSDOT or OK county decides to plow past Early Winters, though.

Great TR and fun read. Thanks.

I get it. Herman Cain + Rick Perry of the climbing world combo.

SW Coulior SEWS Mapleleaf Coulior Copper Mtn both right off the hair pin in the N Cascades. N face Graybeard for ice/snow mixed.

DAS for very cold. For moderate cold- I have finally killed a OR Neoplume (hooded version) after 5 years of 90+ days a season. I plan to get another.

I hiked to Cutthroat Pass today. There is 4-6" of snow starting at 6K, with a dusting below in the shady spots. Some of the S facing rock has melted off, but there is a good bit of snow just about everywhere. Larches are amazing right now.

It has snowed in the North Cascades- about 4-5" on Monday down just below WA pass. S and E facers are melting off, but still plenty of white on N Facing stuff. Another good day is to go climb the Kangaroo Temple N Face and the mighty "Little Finger" next door. Both are fun climbs and no harder than 5.5. Earlier in the year, the MapleLeaf Coulior on Copper peak is a fun solo.

Trip: North Cascades Natl Park - Fremont Glacier- Mt Logan Date: 8/28/2011 Trip Report: Climbed Logan via the Fremont Glacier 8/26-8/29 with my buddy Jake. My prose won't quite match Mr. Lewis' report, but I do agree with his sentiment that Logan is a long ways back, but a worthwhile climb- one I have been contemplating for over 10 years and finally had weather, time off and partner all come together. View of the correct (northern summit block from the Fremont Glacier) The snow ramp from the glacier to the rock is still hanging in there, but not likely for all that much longer. It looks like you could bypass it via some crumbly 3rd/4th class to the right (the rock quality right from the glacier is some of the worst on the climb). Both my partner and I felt we had never climbed as exposed, zero error 3rd and 4th class as on the east ledges and the final bit to the summit. The ledges are easy to find, all there and pretty solid, but a fall would send you several hundreds of feet onto the Douglas glacier. Attention getting. The summit register appears to be missing. We found green wire but no canister on the top. Mrs. Johnson's 1st grade class will be disappointed we didn't sign it for them. Gear Notes: Did not bring rope or glacier gear- no need for anything other than ice ax and crampons. Did not bring enough booze. A pint of Yukon Jack is not enough to dull the aches of this kind of mileage for more than a night. Approach Notes: Long. Approached via Thunder Creek. Bomber trail all cleared of down fall. Great to be in the shade of old growth during the heat. Wasp nest on the trail between the first camp site at the bridge and Neve camp. Got my buddy coming and going. Mean little 1000' climb exposed to the sun between Tricouni and Junction camps. Not recommended for the heat of the day. Trail between the plateau above Skagit Queen camp and Thunder Basin is very over grown in places. Very, very wet from dew in the morning and full of nettles and other thorny things that will make you regret wearing shorts. There is a sketchy log crossing that will avoid fording Thunder Creek right before the horse camp. I wussed out and forded. Our plan was to carry to high camp and have a short summit day, but after talking with a couple of other climbers, we bivvied in Thunder Basin. Glad we did since we found very little camp-able terrain until very close to the glacier. It only added about 1.5 hours to do the addition 2K from Thunder Basin. We ran into two guys who had gone all the way up the first valley from the junction of the climber's path and the official trail. The climbers trail is good and pretty easy to follow until the last major water course in the first valley above Thunder basin. Once you hit the water course with the avvy felled trees, head up hill for 200-300' feet to an easy crossing and pick up the trail there. Cairns all the way to the moraine.

Camping is allowed 1/4 mile from Blue Lake. Bugs are like a typical July right now- find a windy spot to camp. Cutthroat TH is a much better bivvy spot than Blue Lake- farther off the HWY and less buggy. No beta on the coulior.

Anatoli- the hat I recognize. Very work proud.

the crazy hat - yes! but not on top of a puffy hood??? nice job dudes! -veronika Anatoli. Or Kunz. Zat iz you?

I have the 30 degree down hugger. I'm a stocky guy, so even at 5 10" I had to buy the long version. I've spent 30+ nights in it from temps of 70 to just under freezing. I use it with a bivvy and a silk liner and was warm down to about 25-26 in a Betalight. Great bag. Ultralight, super packable, highly recommended. I'm considering buying the 0 degree version.

I sleep warm, so it's worked for me. The coldest temps I have been in it have been mid-teens and in a betalight or like shelter with a bivvy sac, so that could account for why I have found it just fine.

It's north facing and at elevation- so my guess is highly unlikely unless we have sustained period of warming between now and then- or unless you want to climb it in mixed conditions.

I've got the 0 degree version of the Ultralamina. I can't say enough good things about this bag after spending 100+ nights in the for past two seasons. Compresses incredibly well- close to down bag size- and has held its loft and held up well to heavy use- bivvying in the dirt, etc. My only bitch is that the zipper is prone to snagging on the outside of the bag- other than that- best synthetic bag I have ever owned.

At least on the east side they don't like it when they are working, which is just Monday-Thursday, but they have no authority to kick you off if you are on a non-motorized vehicle. Methow Valley Sport Trails posted some pics from last weekend on Facebook: And for those of you who were hoping as well that the slide at Silverstar Creek opened up a decent path in tight trees, the answer is sadly, no. Just a big wet slide though the old growth.

Rudy- I have had plenty of soles resoled by Ramuta and I can say say James at Cascade Cobbler is as good a re-soler and a little less $$. You should try him out.

Cleaning out the closet and would like to find a new home for these items: 1. Men's large insulated TNF Three degrees jacket, Tibetan Orange NWT, retails for $500, yours $250 2. Men's large Helly Hansen Rapide softshell, balck, NWT, $50 3. Lightly used Shepa insulated soft shells pants, black size large $50 4. Marmot work gloves, size large, black, one small seam slightly torn, $25 5. Intuition Denali liners, size 11, heated once, essentially brand new $75 6. Rages sold. Buyer pays shipping from Winthrop WA, prefer Pay Pal. I can send you pics if interested. PM or email db underscore climbz (at) hotmail dot com