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jt

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Everything posted by jt

  1. jt

    Finals bitch thread

    If that is true, then shoot me now. I'm looking forward to a job where I can do something interesting, rather than sit and be bored in class Hope you dig the field your studying, or are passionate about something that you can get paid doing. Regular 9-5 jobs totally blow.
  2. jt

    Finals bitch thread

    Yeah, I know I used to have a real job, which of course is why I am back in school.
  3. jt

    Finals bitch thread

    Pre med = watered down biology degree "Is this going to be on the MCAT? I don't want to learn anything that won't be on the MCAT." "Ochem is only a weed out class... I don't actually need to know this..." "Oh... uhhh... I umm want to be a doctor so I can help people and stuff. Has nothing to do with the salary." Pop quiz: If a particle at rest is found in a 3-d box with walls of infinite potential at t = 0, where is the particle located when t=1? Ok, I lied, apparently my brain is full of Biomechanics, but not of burning time. My guess to the above is that the particle at t=1 would be in the exact same place. You know, object at rest stays at rest. Walls of infinite potential have nothing to do with it, unless they come in contact with the particle or are giving off some other force that effects the particle, emf or something. Let me know if I am right, I am curious.
  4. jt

    Finals bitch thread

    Mike, 1,2 and 5 disappear, I think, which means nothing comes from the 1st aortic arch. Brain Full! I'm out.
  5. Yeah, it is pretty grim. I hope that Nader doesn't screw this thing up and we can get rid of Scrub, he is a moron. I will probably get my house raided for putting that on a public board.
  6. jt

    Finals bitch thread

    Yeah, Mike suck it up white boy. How bad is it when you get two weeks off after a single week more of suffering. Ummmmm, Beeeeeeeer. Now go back to Biomechanics!
  7. Siento del presidente ok, last try and then you guys will just have to check out the attachment http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=3431&password=&sort=1&cat=503
  8. "The Siento Del Presidente" 3rd time is a charm
  9. "The Siento del Presidente, con el Papel Importante" Standard South American Alpine climbing Pro. Let me try that again
  10. "The Siento del Presidente, con el Papel Importante" Standard South American Alpine climbing Pro.
  11. Thanks Erden, I appreciate all of the information you have been providing. I guess this could happen to anyone. I just think of all the times that this gear works time after time and it seems that in this paticular case, multiple things went wrong. Thanks for the updates, I will keep reading them as they come in. jeff
  12. Your right, as I read the string of this accident, the one piece of information which seems to be left out is the rope. If indeed, it is static, it is very possible that all the pieces did exactly what they should have. I find it hard to believe, although it is possible, that with that much rope out that a dynamic rope would not absorb much of the force. Curious, Erden- my condolences to you. Bad times indeed. Seems like there has been quite a bit of accidents in the north west this year. Head check all. Peace
  13. I am making the switch to wide boards this year. For the last 4 or so I have been skiing on Tua Montes amd although they were great in the 90's it is time for some big floaters. Anyone have thoughts on what they have skiied? j
  14. jt

    Stuck Ropes

    Scott, I got my ropes stuck on that same damn decent. I think it was even close to the shortest day of the year. My climbing partner and I huddled in a cave on a small ledge, freezing, finally one of us ended up soloing back up to free the ropes. Sucked, but survived. j
  15. jt

    headlamps

    hey guys check it out. I used to work for an led company called LED-Lite ( www.ledlite.com ) They make the best headlamp that I have seen on the market. The tika is basically a rip off of there design, but petzl didn't do it as well. Here is the beta on these Led lights in general. It takes 4.5 volt to push the LED's to maximum power. This is the reason for the 3 AA or AAA bateries (1.5 V a piece) This is the reason that the PT light is not as good as the ones with three batteries. LED's burn for 100,000 hours before they need to be replaced. I figured it out once and it is like 60 years or something crazy like that, so you do not need to worry about them burning out. Batteries typically last for 100 hours or so, so say goodbye to carrying around that extra block batter for your Zoom. True Led's are not as bright as the good old Zoom, but they more than suffice for most assents. I just climbed Liberty Crack in a day (some night climbing involved) and Mt. Daniels (starting at 2 AM) with my LED Lite headlamp. I do not know if I am convinced enough to take it up Tarmagin Rigde but it has past the first two test. Also, the Led-lite is waterproof and bombproof, a little heavier than the tikka more like the PT but it is SOLID. Here is an even more interesting twist, I cannot say that I have tried this yet but, Led-Lite makes colored lights for their headlamps. So what you say. I did too the first time I heard this. But check it out, your pupil does not constrict under blue, red or green light. The result obviously is that you can see better with less light. Interesting? Anyway, if you are looking for a new lamp, check these ones out they are really great. I think Jim Nelson's shop carries them in the U district and if not I think you can buy them online. Well worth the price.
  16. I have an Arc' Teryx Nozone. It is the best pack I have ever owned. At under 4 lbs, it has a full suspension, room for gear, and lots of nice features. The only drawback is that the fabric is a bit fragile. Some folks have complained about it tearing, although if you know that and handle it appropriately, it is not a prob. Worth checking out.
  17. jt

    Mt. Index

    Hi All, I was up at Stevens Pass today and got my first good look at Mt. Index. Those of you who have seen it know that it just screams to be climbed. The North Peak looked the most interesting to me. Tonight I immediately went and bought the Becky guide to the Cascades (number 1). It shows two climbs of interest to me. One, is the North Face route. The discription in the book is pretty straight forward and it looks like a great route. The second has puzzled me a bit and I wondered if anyone could help me out. There is a photo of a route going up what I would call the North West ridge or buttress, but there is no discription for this route. There is a discription for a Southwest Buttress. Is this the same route. The discriptions do not really match. If not does anyone have any info about this route. Thanks, Jeff
  18. jt

    Nozone

    Hey, I have to agree. The Nozone is the best pack I have ever owned, and the most versitle. It is as comfortable as my Terraplane (which now collects dust) and has much better options. It is a light and fast dream. I spent 6 months with it in New Zealand last year and I finally feel like I have found the ultimate pack. Check one out. One side note: this is true of all light packs, but you need to be a bit more careful with the outer fabric on these, they get torn to pieces much easier than the old cordura, but your pack weights 3 lbs instead of 8. It is a good trade off in my book, but something to be aware of.
  19. If you are going to Yosemite, you might also consider Skull Queen on Washington Column. It is a fantastic route. It starts in the same place as the South face, and still goes over the Kor roof, but heads out right above there. It is a great line. Super exposed. You probably want a ledge though. It wouldn't be great without one, althouth there are some spots you might be able to bivy. Just food for thought. North Dome Gully: Traverse way right. About 10 times what you think you should. It should take you about 15 to 20 minutes to get to the real decent. Doom, if you go to early.
  20. Fantastic, I am going craggin there tomorrow for the first time. Sounds like crap. There is a place down south that sounds very simular called Pinnicles. Loose and sketchy. I will let you all know how it goes. Where is the closest granite around here (Seattle). I need to find some good moderate cracks? j
  21. I am always interested in alpine rock routes. Let me know what you have in mind. j
  22. Brandy, I am always looking for partners. As we all know schedules get a bit crazy. What gym do you belong to? I have spent a fair amount of time at Red Rocks. I did not get to spend as much time in the canyons as I would have liked to but there is endless possiblities. Truely a playground. Let me know if you want to pull ropes at the gym or want some beta on Red Rocks itself. jt
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