Jman

Has anyone had any experience with the Conduit SL Bivy or the Micro Mesh Bivy? Price is decent, but how's the durablility, performance, waterproofness, etc? If you like either one, where's the best place to purchase? Any info would be appreciated.

I would have to agree with the above. Arc'Teryx Beta LT's rock! Most comfortable pant ever, light weight, and very tough material. Excellent quality worksmanship. I've thrashed on mine and they still look beautiful every time I pull 'em out of the wash (be sure to use Revivex for a nice waterproof finish). I love the waterproof zips - saves on weight and excess material. Internal gaitor are nice - eliminates the need to carry or wear gaitors. The suspenders are perfect - keeps the pants up without interfering with pack or ever even feeling them. Ergonomic cut can't be beat. I had originally owned TNF Mid-Triple... what a suck pair of pants. Basically a very expensive logo on a cookie-cutter, ill-fitting cheap material pant. I took em back and bought the Beta LT's. Arc'Teryx makes the best clothes - hand down! If you can afford it, they're worth every penny. In regards to bibs vs. pants: the TNF pants that I owned constantly fell down. The cinch on them never worked very well - by the time you have them tight enough to stay up, you can't breathe. Any bending over always made them fall in the back. And wearing a pack constantly pushed them down too. The "half-bibs" (like the Beta LT) are the only way to go. High enough in the back to keep snow/rain out, yet short enough not to be full-on bibs - less material saves weight and breathes better. The suspenders are very low profile so you never notice them, but they sure keep the pants right where they fit best. One more thing about bibs (or half-bibs) is that you can wear a shorter jacket with them [think: Beta AR], hence saving on even more material and weight - not to mention cost, too, as longer jackets tend to be more expensive. If you do get that combo, be sure to buy the heinous "Tabasco" color. That way we won't look like twins ... unlike me and my four other hiking partners who are all in blue. I swear we all look like "Team Arc'Teryx". [This message has been edited by Jman (edited 04-06-2001).] [This message has been edited by Jman (edited 04-06-2001).]

Jon...? Tim...? Care to move this topic to "Spray"?

I'd have to agree with MrGoodTime. The CAMP StarTech is the way to go. I have the BD HalfDome. The headlamp clips seem fine to me but after a while the chin strap and headband can become kind of uncomfortable. I think comfort is the most important (aside from safety, but that's why you're wearing one in the first place, right? And all helmets have to meet UIAA standards). So, if it's not comfortable, you'll be far less inclined to wear it. In my opinion (or maybe just my headsizd) the StarTech is the most plush. However, the headlamp clips on it are probably the flimiest. It's lightweight which is good, too. But that isn't the primary concern since most helmets don't differ in weight more than a couple of ounces. It could be the lightest helmet on the market, but, again, if it's not comfortable you won't wear it - or maybe you will and just curse it all day long. The only other thing I can think of that you might want to consider is how many times to you expect it to take blows (i.e. rockfall not collision). I'm not too sure of the technicalities on this, so someone correct me if I'm way off... Hard plastic helmets that absorb impact via head straps can sustain repeated blows, but foam helmets can be worthless after one significant blow (since the material crushes to absorb the impact rendering it useless).

I'd have to differ with you on your choice (but remember, this is just my opinion). First, what's wrong with AAA batteries? Other than having an odd number as opposed to an even 2 AA. Second, I like the Tikka's price tag better than P-T's ($35 vs $50-?). Third, what need do you have of an adjustable lamp? I've rarely seen a HUGE difference in the range of area. Most of the time it seems that there's a "good" setting and a "suck" setting. Standard bulbs tend to cast a very "dirty" light in comparison to the LED's "clean", no-distortion beam. Hence, I would never go back to a standard or halogen bulb. LED's cast a smooth soft light that won't damage your eyes. Fourth, LED bulbs don't need to be replaced! They have a life expectancy of 10 years or 100,000 hours. LED's won't break either if they are dropped - another reason eliminating the need to replace. Fifth, as far as the gasket thing is concerned, I've used my Tikka in the rain and had no problems. Others have said the same thing. If the rain is torrential, then I either won't be out in it or I'll have a hat/hood to cover it - even with a helmet. Unless, of course, you do scuba diving with yours... Sixth, the Tikka is lighter than the P-T. Not much, but based on the above, the P-T so far doesn't hold any advantage yet. Seventh, the battery life. Both LED headlamps last about 10 to 12 hours with maximum output. After that they will not just "die" but rather dim and are still usable. (Hint: use Energizer Titanium, they actually make a difference in power output). You won't get any more time using a standard bulb. For something comparable time-wise you'll probably need a 6V, which is a helluva lot heavier. Eight, I couldn't imagine Petzl not standing behind their warranties. Besides, if you buy it at REI, they take anything back :-)

Much will depend on what type of conditions you intend/could encounter. An aluminum head sucks for late season ice but is just fine for med-hard snow conditions. Personally, I own a steel head axe and I also bought the Cassin Ghost. How many trips have you been on when you weren't sure whether or not you need an axe and hence left it behind for the sake of weight and then wished you had it? Or took your full-on 75cm steel-headed "battle" axe as simply an ornament to your pack? Do you carry a snow picket in addtion to your axe? For only 9 oz, I think the Ghost offers a great compromise/solution (MSR's 24" Coyote is 13 oz and Charlet Moser's aluminum picket is 8 oz). Use a "real" axe for conditions that merit it (assuming you buy one) and carry the Ghost as a "picket" - if you don't intend on using the axe as a picket. When you're not sure if you'll need one, take just the Ghost for security with minimal weight. This is only if you can afford the price tag, though. I think the Grivel Air Tech Racing is a LOT of money ($118) for only a couple ounces lighter than most others. Also, if I'm gonna have a steel head, I'd rather have a steel spike too. (think: Grivel Eagle at $80) And then add the Ghost for another $80. Now you'll be prepared for all situations! just my $.02 (for free, even!)

Thus far I've made 2 attempts of Whitehorse. The first we tried to do in one day and had to turn back for lack of time. The last time was only a few weeks ago. Snow conditions weren't the best and had too much fog, so it was difficult to not only proceed but to even see where we were (we happened to be just below Lone Tree pass). Our intent was to cross under the cliff bands at Lone Tree (NOT go over LTP) and traverse East over to a saddle that would drop us onto the glacier at about 3600' (I think). Going this way would force us to navigate the bergschrund. However, I was wondering if the High Pass route is a better choice? - (I know that's the "established" route in many books, the other route from Snow Gulch sucks! I hate bushwhacking Devil's Club!!! hence our idea of going the "saddle" route). Any suggestions as to the best route this time of year? Also, any beta about the route from Lone Tree to High Pass (so I don't "miss" it, since I've heard/read of others mistaking one gully that comes too soon for the actual gully up to High Pass). Thanks!

I recently bought a pair of these. I think they are an older model. Does anybody own a pair (or used them before)? Any opinons about 'em?

I'm with MrGoodTime on this one, too. I also bought a pair of Technica Alta TCY's at Jim's shop. They have a minimal flex - just enought to make them comfortable to hike in, yet stiff enough for crampons, and virtually no break in, as well as very light weight and somewhat waterproof/breathable. I don't ice climb (and never done any front-pointing) but I don't imagine these would be very good for that. I also have a pair of Garmont Guides that are leather and have a plastic/rubber rand with Vibram soles. Great boots - but they don't fit my feet very well. Hence I'm selling them on the Gear Rack for cheap (I know... a shameless plug for myself).

Well, everybody has given me great info and a lot to consider. However, many thanks to Freerider - he has made a point I cannot argue with. Since I am a gumby, I probably need the best of both worlds: hiking boots for hiking to the crag, and rock shoes for climbing low angle / easy climbs. No sense in wasting my money on something that will probably wear out too fast and that will not provide me that advantages I need to learn. Good points! Hence, I've already bought a pair of rock shoes - Scarpa Generators - on clearance and with my REI dividend check, so they were cheaper than any approach shoes. Although, I would like to know others' opinions about these, so I'll start another thread on that... (not that it really matters anyway, since I already bought 'em :-)

SOLD. Thanks!

I must have missed it... what'd he spray?

I've got a Whisperlite (the basic standard), it's been through quite a few years of use/abuse. Never had any problems. I like the flexibility of rationing how much fuel I need to carry (unlike canister stoves). I've used it at 10,000 feet - no problem. Never even had to do a lick of maintenance to it, either. I recently bought a Primus Alpine Micro that Jim Nelson swears by,... but I have yet use it - wish I could offer advice on it... still in progress on that one.

So what do most people do when they venture out to climb a crag? Wear sneakers or light hiking boots to the base and then change into the climbing shoes while stashing the boots in the bushes for later retrieval? Or do you throw the boots into your pack and carry them up the face? Is it rare that people actually climb in approach shoes? Is it better to just hike in my hiking boots and buy/carry rock shoes?

Thanks for all the great info!! Keep it coming. Mark's comments are very helpful, since I was considering Lowa and Garmont, too. Just to clarify, these would only be for very light hiking, more for the rock climbing aspect without having all-out rock climbing shoes. I have a pair of Technica TYC's for mountaineering that are totally awesome - great for crampons and virtually no break in time (got them a Jim Nelson's shop).

I checked out the Triolet on Lowa's website. They look promising, I could do without the red (doesn't match anything of mine, my color happens to be blue... since we know how all-important coordination is), and the MSRP sucks! - $165. Heck I paid only $5 more for my Technicas. Know of any place that has them for cheaper... or, even has them for that matter? Are they really worth it?

I do not own a pair of rock shoes... yet, but I was considering first buying a pair of approach shoes - something to hike moderately in, scramble, or do "easy" rock climbing. The Five-Ten Guide Almighty looks to be about the best of them all (stealth rubber, lacing to the toe, etc). Has anybody had any experience with or heard any comments on these? Any other recommendations?

Brand new, used only a couple of times. Has both standard and halogen bulbs. Retails for about $50, will sell for $20. Email me at moedog56@hotmail.com

Excellent condition, very minimal wear. Full shank, leather/plastic uppers. Great for mountaineering/climbing. $80 (OBO).

My wife and I, along with two other couples, all purchased the Motorola - not sure which model, but is the standard yellow one. No complaints. They work great when our party gets separated on snowshoe/hiking outings. Range is difficult around and over ridges. Reception is crystal when in range, picks up even a whisper. Also given them quite a beating - they've held up to dropping on rocks, buried in snow, light rain, and general rough use. I'm impressed with Motorola's durability. Costco sells them for about $60 each.