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jrwclimbs

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Everything posted by jrwclimbs

  1. Hi climbers, UPDATED WITH PRICES... SORT OF! We're having a yard sale this Saturday on Phinney Ridge, from 9-2, so in case your climb is rained out, come check out our goods for sale. Some specialty pieces include: An integral designs single wall tent-4 season. Well used but loved! North Face expedition down Baltoro parka with Dryloft, 700+ fill, black, medium, lots of inner pockets, zip-off hood, the ULTIMATE PUFFY COAT! Basically brand new. Old style, warmer than newer styles $350 Feather Friends Rock Wren-750 fill, black, size regular, 4 ounces overfill, dryloft (or similar but forgot name) shell. Sweet! 4 ounces extra brings it to about a 10 to 20 F comfort rating. Been in 10 and 15F and been fine with warm socks on. Excellent condition $230 Size 8 woman's Koflach plastic ski mountaineering boots, great condition inside and out $45 Stoves-Whisperlite and maybe 1 or 2 other styles Pots-various nesting types 2 climbing helmets-no falls, guaranteed! (and no sun exposure except for outings)1 Edelrid ultralight, white and a blue Camp. Trango Pyramid belay device, never dropped. misc. bike stuff Marmot Dri-clime jacket/shirt with one chest pocket. black/dark green, size small. $20 convertible hiking pants, grey, men's small $15 Oh, and some lightly used Sportiva Miuras, size 40 1/2 $55 House is located on the southeast corner of 60th and Evanston, just east of Zeek's Pizza and north of the Zoo. Oh, there'll be 'normal' yard sale stuff, too. Check Craigslist for more info. Czesc! and hopefully see ya there!
  2. We just had a magnificent trip up Mt. Challenger July 2-5, and saw two fast and light guys who apparently nabbed the steep east face of Ghost Peak. 3 days round trip. Nice job, and what were those things on your shoes? Jeronimo
  3. Wild Things Andinista climbing pack, size medium $350 New, now $90 (see photo in for sale gallery) North Face Cerro Torre w/Polarguard 3d fill, blue, size small. New $150, now $45 (see photo in for sale gallery) Marmot Thunderlight 3-Ply Gore-Tex jacket, red/black size Small, but runs damn big! used, but in good condition. Was the lightest full-featured jacket when it came out. Just a bit too long for me. $400 new. Now...$50! (see photo in for sale gallery) PMI 50 9.0mm glacier rope. blue, used a few times on Rainier. Good shape. $30 (I have two shorter ropes that I use instead) Dynafit TLT3s, older ones that are grey and red, light weight with 2 buckle closure (new ones have 3 buckles/straps) Size 9/Mondo 27.5. Sole, binding pin hole and upper shell all in great shape! $60. Koflach Viva Soft plastic mountaineering boots. Size 9 Black and red model. Great shape, superb tread. $60 Camera- Canon T70 35mm SLR. I have a ton of lenses, Cokin filters, polarizers, magnifier, flash, remote, etc. Email me if you'd like to hear more. More gear for sale may be coming online soon! Contact me at: jrwclimbs@hotmail.com Thanks! Jeremy
  4. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36118&item=5100848302&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW Howdy, I've got this tent for sale on ebay, but if you live locally, I could hand deliver it to ya. Enjoy! Jeremy
  5. Trying to whittle down the choices out there and it seems that both the Patagonia Das Parka and the GoLite Six-Month Night are the way to go. (Any others recommended that I'm missin'?) BUT...looking for some beta on ACTUAL use in cold, high places and technical situations. Warmth, durability, packability, pocket sizing/access, cinching, hood happiness, helmet happiness, range of motion, access to harness, hot water bottle pocket use, etc. etc. etc. Thanks! Also, anyone ever use the golite 1/2 vbl vest? jr
  6. Heinie!? Will Hans be there, too, or the wife to be?!?!
  7. Anyone been up ANY of the couloirs or faces in the Colchuck/Dragontail vicinity in the last 2 weeks? Also, any beta on topping out of Col's NE Couloir? Thanks Jeremy
  8. so scot'teryx, how was the hike in last week and is the lake still frozen? Did you get any precip either day? Attempt any peaks? Snow conditions? Thanks Jeremy
  9. Anyone know if you need a trail park pass for the Niederpum TH? Thanks! jr
  10. Sorry you didn't get Prusik. We were up there this weekend, too. Awesome climb, and that approach from Snow creek TH is a big bad ass bitch. And for what it's worth, everyone's feet hurt! Next time over assgard for sure!
  11. In '97, I hiked it northbound in 2.5 days. I was slowed down by 2 people joining me for the first full day (and subsequent next morning). My pack was probably around 13 pounds at the TH. I didn't run any of it, just as long as you get up early enough and keep moving until just past dark, you'll be fine. Skip the filter, too. There's water/springs galore, even late season. Hitch hiking from either pass isn't too difficult, either! Good luck. If you pull it off, then you should try the next section to Stehekin in a weekend, now that's a bitch!
  12. How was the E Ridge? was it really loose 3rd/4th as I've heard, near the top? Did the descent require any raps? What were your times car to summit to car? Axe needed? Mucho Thanks!
  13. Has anyone out there done either the North Ridge (complete) or the Mesachie Icefall Couloir routes? Ever? Is the latter doable in a day from HWY 20? Thanks! Jeremy
  14. A few years ago we navigated around the West Side road closure by hiking on the Wonderland Trail from Longmire, then bushwhacked up Hornpipe creek (easy, but steep). It's a longer approach, but not too bad to the first camp (8k-ish). We planned on a carryover, too, descending to Paradise, but extreme winds turned us around at 9,800'. Definitely save the route for early season. Read Molenaar's description in Challenge of Rainier and let someone else suffer! Jeremy
  15. Anyone been up there lately? Thanks!
  16. It's totally worth doing! We bivied at the base (first ones ever?!?!) amongst the heinous loose talus pile (evidence of how solid the peaks are...). First pitch is more of a traverse/downclimb, protectable for both if paying attention. Second pitch wasn't too obvious and only 1 of the original 8 Beckey pins are left and it's conveniently at the first belay. Climbing was loose and rockfall dinged the rope more than once. 2nd pitch was steep and above 5.4 and had funky pro but still doable. Very awesome summit, almost flat 8 by 12 summit worth biving on in the future. Note, descend the snow gully you came up, don't descend via the count of monte cristo. you'll be doomed... have fun!
  17. Nice beta! So did you first traverse around the lower ridge, saw all the rockfall and then went BACK to the ice on the EAST side? Was there any rockfall from the upper ridge or Willis Wall/Thermo routes getting up to the Thumb? And lastly was the Emmons as bad as reports are saying? Sounds like more screws may be more necessary than usual!Thanks! Anyone try Lib this weekend or did the Avi spook everyone?
  18. It's a good idea to have 2 pieces of snow pro handy, i.e. 2 pickets, one on each side of your pack, with the runner/biner draped over your shoulder and clipped to your shoulder straps so you can grab them easily in the self(team) arrest position. You never know which hand you'll be arresting with on the axe head, so it's nice to be able to grab either picket with the opposite hand. Unfortunately most climbers tend to carry only one picket per person. Another nice piece of gear is the orange Petzl Pulley wheel that fits over some oval biners. It's ultralight since it has no housing so you can't scoff at the weight. Check to see if it fits your ovals first, I know it doesn't fit BDs. It has to go with an oval biner or the rope will slip off the wheel so the ultralight biners won't cut it here. I also carry one of the small REI pulleys, too, for the initial anchor point pulley since it's easier to set up and it doesn't suck in the prussik like the regular Petzl Pulley (with metal housing). The Petzl Tibloc can also be clipped on quickly in lieu of one of the prussik knots and it's obviously self tending (though I'd trust a prussik more, especially on a thin rope). If you're in really soft snow its gonna suck making the anchor since you'll have to dig a deadman trench (while still in the arrest position!) and the rope for your partner will be so embedded that they may not be able to get out at all on that line (hence the longer tails!) One last trick, if you have a rope that will very often be used for 2 person glacier travel, make marks ahead of time for the proper lengths for the tie in, this should save a fair amount of time at the high camp and minimize the guess work of your arm lengths vs. the rope length so you can be very sure you'll have enough rope to extract your cold pal. good luck and go practice somewhere safe!
  19. Haven't been there this summer to see it yet, but they usually keep it gated at Paul Peak until the ENTIRE road is snow free. They sandbagged us last year and said it was open (while at Paradise), after the long drive around-it wasn't! GRR. I think they opened the gate July 15th or so last year. On our hike in (July 9) the road was snow free until the last half mile or less of road. And there was the tire tracks of the ranger truck who dropped the rangers who did Ptar ridge in a day... So I'd bring your bike if going out soon, just have decent knobbies!
  20. Has anyone used the new MSR hanging stove set up? Are you happy with it? I know it works with the msr pocket rocket stove and one of the Primus', does it work with the Giga stove, too? It's a nice weight, especially compared to Bibler's setup. In general, has anyone used a ti pot with a hanging setup? seems the arms would either get in the way or get cooked off. any ideas? thanks!
  21. Has anyone been on any side of Baker in the last 2 weeks? Up to any decent elevation or the summit? Any beta would be grand. I heard the road for the Coleman/Helitrope is open to under a mile from the TH!
  22. Due to the amount of debris coming down the Leuthold, and the number of climbers attempting it, we did a variation of the main Reid Headwall route. As the previous post mentioned, you can escape some of the falling ice and rock chunks on the mini ridges but a few gullies required full frontal pelting! Our variation actually ran into some solid 5.8 rock over 10,000' but we only had slings for pro so we backed off after 12 feet. With a little ugly traversing on manky snow (the whole mountain had crap snow) we scampered lightly up a loose, down sloping gully reaching another dead end around 10,950'. From there a 30 m rap got us down to the upper Reid normal route finish. Overall there was lots of dry tooling, a little bit of water ice, a helluva lot of ice and rock fall. The summit was very windy and the south side standard route had much less snow at the Pearly Gates than normal for May and the schrund is opening up pretty decently. If its not a bowling alley, Leuthold looks like a nice cruise compared to our Reid variation!
  23. For alpine climbing the Petzl Micro, loaded with 2 Lithium AA batteries and one standard and one halogen bulb is the way to go. Its light, small and you can use the spot or beam, or either bulb as necessary. The only downside is the lack of availability and cost of the AA lithiums...(REI and Bartells)
  24. Has anyone attempted Dragontail this winter/spring? I only know of one team-who turned around early due to food poisoning and never saw the route. Any info would be great. Thanks!
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