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pope

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Everything posted by pope

  1. 5.15

    What? Bill and Offy are being civil? You know, every once in a while I find myself believing that you two may just be an RCH more dignified than most of the bottom-feeders on this site.
  2. 5.16 !!!!!

    Really? Hey, if that what's you're into. Just watch out for the "deadliest catch".
  3. 5.15

    wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time. Actually what happened is....there's a nice stance where the crack gets a little wide. I placed a nut and weighted it slightly so that I could strip off some clothing. There was no falling or dogging, but it my mind it didn't quite count. Note to self: wear a extra layer of clothing when I need an excuse for failure. We've all read your trip reports. We've come to expect it.
  4. 5.15

    wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time. and yes, the time have changed- people warm up on 11's. so you were and still are weak, pathetic wanker BAWHAHAHAHAHAHHA .... remember bob, he flashed equinox on a top rope! With Jason Mikos. Ask him.
  5. 5.15

    No. They cost too much, and I had people waiting on me who were in no position to finish the climb. And they were cold. I hung on a nut, threw down my sweater and finished. With "1 PA" is the way I wrote it in my notes. The 2nd on the rope, who is now a big advocate of sport climbing and who has a mouth even larger than yours, followed the pitch with tension for nearly every move. I only went back to the climb to see if my Vertical World membership was providing dividends. BOOO BOOO BOOO U SUCK BOOO BOOO BOOO GO HOME POSER BOOO BOOO... musta sucked being all cold while dripping sweat from the heat, eh? Belayer was cold, I wasn't. I couldn't wiggle up that slot with three layers.
  6. 5.15

    So, you're a foul-mouth and a liar. I challenge you to find that statement.
  7. 5.15

    Take a number, honey.
  8. 5.15

    wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time. Actually what happened is....there's a nice stance where the crack gets a little wide. I placed a nut and weighted it slightly so that I could strip off some clothing. There was no falling or dogging, but it my mind it didn't quite count.
  9. 5.15

    I'm going to call BS on this one. Unless it was one of those routes rated 5.13 for it's endurance demands, you're looking at the equivalent of a V7 boulder problem, most likely after you have a healthy pump from some hard 11 or 12 climbing below. Unless you are a mutant, there is absolutely no way that simply rehearsing the moves are going to make them magically happen. If you aren't that mutant, it's going to take some major sport specific training, a dedication to hard bouldering, or both to make moves that hard. How many 5.13 climbers even post to this board? Isn't Marc Leclerc chasing that grade (and judging from his videos, he is sick strong)? I will agree with you that it is not much of a jump to make for an onsite 5.12 climber to pull a 5.13 with sport climbing tactics. To take this argument to reduce the accomplishments of Sharma (or anyone who has pulled 5.15) is silly at best. So Pope, what do you think of today's cutting edge "trad" climbers such as Caldwell and Trotter? Both have shown a high level of onsite ability, but have used the sport tactic to do near superhuman feats. Where I added bold type to your quote, that's exactly what I've been saying. When sport climbing arrived in America, rap bolting was defended because supposedly climbing 5.13 was not possible without it. In fact, those first sport climbs were in the easy 5.13 range and they didn't represent an enormous leap above what was already being done in much better style without all of the cheating, aid and bolts. And yet, folks who struggled with 5.12 gear routes could suddenly spend half their summer hanging off bolts and rehearse the snot out of a 13a climb. And they went after it like nose candy, because the dumbed-down version of rock climbing was allowing access to grades only previously seen on the cover of Climbing Magazine. Then came 5.14, and 5.15. But I'd argue that 5.15 is more the spawn and progression of bouldering than sport climbing. Now the choice is there to climb in whatever way motivates you. I get it that you don't like bolts. In the grand scheme of things, I don't understand how the bolts truly affect you. Sure there will be a few climbs that shouldn't be bolted, but do you go to Exit 38 wishing that all of that choss wasn't bolted? Are the endless bolt lines of Vantage really a big deal (especially compared to trash and spray paint from concert goers)? I'm sure you still go out and climb what you want, how you want to, and still get from it what you want. If I feel like going out to Exit 38 for a low key day of bolt clipping, you would never know, nor should you care. That's the way it should be. If bolts were only found at Exit 38, I suppose I'd be OK with that. What I see in Leavenworth makes me sad. Truly. When I started climbing about the only bolts you saw in the Icicle were found on ground-up clasics like Timson's Face. How things have changed.
  10. 5.15

  11. 5.15

  12. 5.15

    No. They cost too much, and I had people waiting on me who were in no position to finish the climb. And they were cold. I hung on a nut, threw down my sweater and finished. With "1 PA" is the way I wrote it in my notes. The 2nd on the rope, who is now a big advocate of sport climbing and who has a mouth even larger than yours, followed the pitch with tension for nearly every move. I only went back to the climb to see if my Vertical World membership was providing dividends.
  13. 5.15

    2 Thanks for answering that. What if the second try comes 10 years later? Is is still siege climbing? I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.
  14. 5.15

    Tvash, I was getting worried. You were logged out for at least 15 minutes. I assumed you were either pulling you pud or you'd become lost trying to reach REI with your GPS.
  15. 5.15

    2
  16. 5.15

    I'm going to call BS on this one. Unless it was one of those routes rated 5.13 for it's endurance demands, you're looking at the equivalent of a V7 boulder problem, most likely after you have a healthy pump from some hard 11 or 12 climbing below. Unless you are a mutant, there is absolutely no way that simply rehearsing the moves are going to make them magically happen. If you aren't that mutant, it's going to take some major sport specific training, a dedication to hard bouldering, or both to make moves that hard. How many 5.13 climbers even post to this board? Isn't Marc Leclerc chasing that grade (and judging from his videos, he is sick strong)? I will agree with you that it is not much of a jump to make for an onsite 5.12 climber to pull a 5.13 with sport climbing tactics. To take this argument to reduce the accomplishments of Sharma (or anyone who has pulled 5.15) is silly at best. So Pope, what do you think of today's cutting edge "trad" climbers such as Caldwell and Trotter? Both have shown a high level of onsite ability, but have used the sport tactic to do near superhuman feats. Where I added bold type to your quote, that's exactly what I've been saying. When sport climbing arrived in America, rap bolting was defended because supposedly climbing 5.13 was not possible without it. In fact, those first sport climbs were in the easy 5.13 range and they didn't represent an enormous leap above what was already being done in much better style without all of the cheating, aid and bolts. And yet, folks who struggled with 5.12 gear routes could suddenly spend half their summer hanging off bolts and rehearse the snot out of a 13a climb. And they went after it like nose candy, because the dumbed-down version of rock climbing was allowing access to grades only previously seen on the cover of Climbing Magazine.
  17. 5.15

    I'm younger than you. I'm pretty sure you're no fan of rap either. We can all agree on that. Like that guy in the Sharma video. Like I'd give a shit. Top ropes? I love 'em. And I think an enormous amount of skill can be developed on a top-rope or boulder or in a gym. Some folks think bolts and sport climbing are necessary, but we all know that's just an excuse for the trail of trash left for the next party to "enjoy".
  18. 5.15

    And also CRAP MY DRAWERS. Forgot to mention that part.
  19. 5.15

    Hello friend. Your boy seems like a good sport, and a splendid climber. While you're living vicariously through his accomplishments, remember to keep a helmet on him. And please don't teach him to talk like a rap artist (like his dad). I don't think 5.13 is special unless you're climbing it in very good style. I suspect you've done a couple of these, but I doubt you do them any faster or in any better style than the next mediocre athlete (like I) could do. I've never done one, but I flashed Equinox on a top-rope, so I assume I could add a couple ofletter grades by adopting your strategies. Maybe I'm wrong. But I'm not really interested in knowing either. The point is, the traditional approach to mountaineering (rock, ice, whatever) requires everything the sport climber is doing and more. You have to worry about protection, about safety, about leading out on moves when the pro below you may be questionable and you don't know whether any good pro exists above. You have to worry about possibly getting a bolt in on lead, or maybe you just back off. One way or the other, the demands are higher, the adventure greater, the mess you leave is far smaller. Sport climbing? Virtually every requirement described in the previous paragraph is bypassed. You can spend days or weeks working one pitch, you can hang, yard, top-rope, whatever you want. I think Dwayner's point is accurate, which is that 5.13 isn't really that great a leap above hard 5.11 or 5.12, when so many of the requirements of traditional climbing are removed. It doesn't matter whether you've done one, or I've done one, or Dwayner's done one. If sport climbing tactics are employed, it's no greater accomplishment than climbing a 5.12 in good style.
  20. 5.15

  21. 5.15

    Well.....that was a long time ago, but I remember you as being older than I. Or maybe you just did a bunch of drugs and came out looking like Lynn Hill. Who knows? Regarding the UW rock, let's agree that we're not talking about real climbing here. And I'm pretty sure there were a few crack and friction problems I was doing that would have spit you off (then and now). There were a couple of steep face climbs you were doing that were pretty "out there", but all they required was a big reach and commitment to a diet of sprout sandwiches.
  22. 5.15

  23. 5.15

    Think about it for a minute: 1. You're wrecking the rocks with your trail of shite. You litter. 2. You're calling it free climbing when it's really aid. You're dishonest. 3. What you're doing deserves even less respect than aid climbing because the gear you cheat with takes no skill and no balls to place. Add to that it holds 12,000 lbs so your risk and commitment are zero. Add to that you place the gear while sliding down a rope. I'm just trying to help you understand what you're promoting.
  24. 5.15

    Fairweather alerted me to the probability that Sharma is constipated (just listen to him grunt and growl on those high-steps). He and the Williams sisters should consider bran and raisins or even a laxative in the morning. [video:youtube]
  25. rappel in the middle of asgard pass

    What the Hell?
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