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pope

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Everything posted by pope

  1. Don't know/remember your girlfriend. Please advise her to get over me (and stop calling).
  2. Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off". Dude that’s just rude!!!! OFF has declined putting up easy manufactured routes at his crag and it’s a freak’n quarry... link (don't know why OW took down the photos)
  3. Used to be able to drive my '79 civic on a "4wd" route around the gate.
  4. Although according to Magic Mike, a bolt drilled in a boulder cemented into the matrix on Battle of the Bulge once pulled out and the boulder pulled with it.
  5. Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off".
  6. pope

    fat climbers [Tvrash]

    Dude, eat a cheese burger. I think my schlanger weighs more than that.
  7. Hey Dmurja! Who gives a flying falk what you're impressed by (or not impressed by)? Everybody who climbs solo to impress Dmurja stand up and be counted. Anybody? You play music and you compare the "raw ability" to play something you've never played, music not "corrected" to soloing something one has never climbed. BFD. When you play the wrong note, you get another chance. When you miscalculate just about ANYTHING without a rope, you don't. Contemplating this, weighed against my current obligations, convinced me that all of the exhilerating freedom solo climbing offers isn't worth the down side of the game. I've found similar satisfaction and freedom in riding mountain bikes, without having to spend hours and hours with my life hanging in the balance.
  8. Decided not to solo a few years ago. Glad I lived through it. For a couple of years there, I probably climbed more without a rope than with. Like many, I experimented with making alpine climbs go faster, typically 3rd classing moderate rock with a partner until we got to the harder pitches. After a few trips like this I decided solo climbing was not only reasonable but preferable. Going alone subtracted most of the things I didn't like about climbng (shivering on a ledge, packing gear, sorting gear, rope tangles, etc.) and since I always climbed in control, my mind was only occupied with solving the problems of climbing, never worried about failure. With a rope, I didn't like going after pitches where I was likely to fall (although I liked being challenged), so I didn't miss that aspect of climbing when soloing.
  9. Dateline Leavenworth: fake but fun destinations
  10. That video is reflective of the kind of fun one might find at Rockfest. Come to the Good Time Bouldering Rodeo, however, and your experience might remind you of this: uQwu8enr6Ec
  11. So far, the group of folks responding to this thread are precisely the type who need to join our celebration. All 'dem sit starts have deposited a critical mass of sand in yo' panties! Hangin' off 'dem bolts on the latest "project" have sent your balls....where did they go? Better check in your wife's purse.
  12. From this we may gather that you aren't just some "punk kid with a drill". So what are ya? Some old fart with a drill? Does that make you better? No matter how old you are, you should consider top roping, or if you must drill, get it done on the lead. That's how you distinguish yourself from just another "punk kid with a drill".
  13. pope

    Huge fall at Smith

    I do not need to reread the OP. I have excellent reading comprehension skilz. And your OP does not cover my question. Please see below (with grammatical correction): So my original question remains unanswered. Alex leads the first pitch, then apparently lowers off after setting it up for toproping. His friends TR it, and clean all the gear. At this point, we have the first pitch cleaned of all gear and a TR situation set up. Alex then takes a rack, TRs back up to the first pitch anchor, and then continues to lead, moving into the second pitch. The question remains: Why does he link the two pitches into one? As I stated, it's been over 15 years since I led this climb, and I don't recall the pitch lengths, but is it even possible to link these two into one, and if not, what was he thinking by doing so? Please answer that. Maybe the anchors aren't where I remember, but I recall a 5.11a pitch that wasn't more than 100 feet, maybe with 1 bolt lower on the route? Seems like #5 RP's fit well.
  14. 2 laps on Castle include some entertaining 5.10 without moving the car or hiking far. Lap 1: Smut, the Bone, Damnation, Midway Direct. Lap 2: Mr. Clean, Brass Balls, The Nose, Midway Direct Direct (or whatever the name of that run-out Jim Nelson route is). Throw in M.F. Direct on one of these laps if you're not getting worked.
  15. Drove from Bonney Lake to Leavenworth and back Monday. My 3-door civic never got better than 34mpg previously, but I tried some of these high-mpg techniques. Wow! Even though the car now has 200K miles, I managed 42mpg (and that's with three mountain passes each way). I think the high prices are GREAT! Ultimately people will find ways to drive less. Guys with small weiners will have to find new ways to compensate for their insecurities (other than buying big 4wd trucks). More small cars on the road will make my small car safer to drive, more equitable in collisions. For me, the bottom line is safer roads and cleaner air.
  16. Fantastic. Don't suppose you found a chock stone to scramble over half way up? The route on 5919 appears to have an exciting exit.
  17. pope

    Bladder Buddy

    Probably wouldn't sell. But how's about a book....like...uh...maybe..."The Complete Idiot's Guide to Stealth Urban Pissing". Chapter 1: phone booths aren't just for telephone calls.
  18. He wants alpine. Snow on the approach? That's alpine. Yellowjacket tower...that's alpine. In fact, Yellowjacket tower is the spiritual center of alpine climbing in Leavenwoth. You will not be disappointed.
  19. "Sure it will work. We'll post this on the web and then Richard Simmons will wanna go sport climbing with ya."
  20. Dude, where's the sick pix?
  21. "Damn. Forgot my third ski."
  22. Mark, thanks for the thoughtful post. I'm encouraged that you're willing to solicit opininions before adding to the increasing number of bolts in Leavenworth granite. Climbing, by its nature, is dangerous. Adding bolts may decrease the potential for long falls and injuries. Then again, extra bolts may attract climbers who wouldn't otherwise attempt the route, climbers with less skill who are more likely to find a way to hurt themselves. You can't completely fool-proof a route. Climbing fatalities occur on pitches where you can plug a 2.5" cam every 3 feet. By adding bolts to your climb, you are lowering the expectations. A climber who is "capapble" of 5.7 may be lured higher by the vision of a shiny bolt 10 feet above, when in fact he/she does not have the experience or fitness necessary to commit to the moves necessary to reach that bolt. I object to the notion that certain pitches in the Pinnacles have been "destroyed" by the sparse application of bolts. So what if a climb of a given grade requires confident climbing between well-spaced bolts? All this means is that climbers must be honest in their ability to climb at that grade. If beginners can't climb run-out 5.8 routes, perhaps they're not ready for 5.8 and should seek 5.6 climbs until their confidence and experience increases. The ability to recognize that a pitch is too difficult and/or dangerous for current abilities, and the willingness to retreat from such a climb ultimately make climbers, both novice and expert, safer and more competent to participate in the wide variety of experiences that climbing offers.
  23. Welcome to the Camp, I guess you all know why we're here. My name is Tommy And I became aware this year If you want to follow me, You've got to play pinball. And put in your earplugs Put on your eyeshades You know where to put the caulk Hey you getting drunk, so sorry! I've got you sussed. Hey you smoking Mother Nature! This is a bust! Hey hung up old Mr. Normal, Don't try to gain my trust! 'Cause you ain't gonna follow me any of those ways Although you think you must
  24. pope

    time to pry his rifle

    Outrageously excellent. The Omega Man believed in what this country once believed. Thinking about the participants who have been banned for offering polite opinion on everything from bolting ethics to politics and religion....banned by some of the "free thinking" vanguards of demcratic values on this site, makes me wanna puke.
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