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That's a climb I've always wanted to do....but now I'm intimidated. Before I read the photo credits carefully I saw this photo and thought, "Will sure has aged!"

Well done! Did you belay every pitch or simul-climb the upper sections?

"Those who most frequently quote without permission the thoughts of others have few of their own." Discuss. so you are saying don would be upset if a work of his were to be quoted here? you must admit that the irony inherent in this quote coming from don (is this from don?) is hilarious! What's hilarious is your concept of irony, together with Bill Coe's logic. Rather than offering the strongest objections to sport "climbing", my friend Dwayner offers the strongest recommendations for a clean climbing ethic. Also, to suggest that he believes there exists only one way of thinking (his own) ignores the fact that he has never suggested that clean climbing is his own ethic or ideal. He has frequently cited the inspiration for and the development of his support of clean climbing. Finally, it doesn't matter whether I believe he would be upset about the quoted material. Fact is, the statement wasn't quoted with permission. It was clearly an amateur logician's childish attempt to display a contradiction. The final word may very well be that Bill (together with everybody else who thinks he is clever, including the moron to whom I am responding) is really stupid.

"Those who most frequently quote without permission the thoughts of others have few of their own." Discuss.

Thats exactly what I was thinking! Except my heart isn't broken at all though, I could give a rats ass about that part. Ok, Don bums me for some other undefined reason. Maybe it's his unreasonable and extreme stance on bolts. Here's a message for my extremely hip sport-climbin' buddies Mr. Off White and Mr. B. Coe. Starting with OW. Because my buddy Fairweather says you're a good guy, and because he's an excellent judge of character, I'm gonna give you a chance to demonstrate such qualities on this board (or we can go climbing). So far, I haven't been impressed with the way you been treatin' my good buddy Dwayner. Now for Bill (and some of this applies to OW). You seem like an educated guy. Yet, when me an' Dwayner encourage our rock climbing brothers to take it easy with the drill, in the interest of preserving rock climbing as somewhat of a wilderness activity, in the interest of being gentle on the medium, you inevitably respond with the same tired crap, attempting to dismiss the ideas as not contemporary and therefore invalid. You do this by asserting that Dwayner's interest in this issue is motivated purely by nostalgia and contempt for anything new and different. Fact is, good ideas are timeless. And you two are a little too old to be worried about what's fashionable. We all know what bolts bring to climbing: greater safety, steeper learning curve, metalic trash on the rock, increased traffic, more inexperienced climbers using their gear to get up cliffs that are probably too hard for them (where they can drop 'biners on you), access issues, the change of our mind-sets to favor convenience and safety over challenge, courage and accepting limitations (thus the increasing number of bolted cracks). And general laziness. Outside of metalic trails of trash, there are many ways sport climbing has impacted rock climbing. Most are arguably negative. And I think you know this, otherwise you'd make some attempt to discuss these issues. Instead, all we get out of you is some incredibly sophomoric attempts to shift attention away from this issues and attack my friend's character. Guess what......I know Dwayner better than most of ya. He's a close friend. His opposition to excessive bolting is not motivated by a resentment of growing old or of new ideas. Instead, I believe he's motivated by a deep respect for the beauty and adventure found in climbing mountains. You, Mr. B. Coe, probably already know this. If Dwayner bums you out, it's because you're behaving like a jackass and defending something that you know is pathetic. Makes me curious about what motivates you. A need to feel young, by sparkin' a bowl while your buddies hang-dog a little 5.10 Smith Rock climb right next to some cute girls who are probably young enough to be your children? Is that why you like this nonsense? Or is it because you always told yourself you could climb a 5.11, and now, with a bolt by your foot, knee and shoulder you can just French free your way up it? Ain't sport climbing great? BTW, once again OW, I'm waiting to see what Fairweather's talking about. Mr. Coe, your'e just an asshole so don't bother responding.

Whatever it takes to get a cocktail! When are we going climbing?

What are you talking about? I object to adding a bolt to an established climb and suddenly I'm berating and belittling people? I climb as much as my current obligations allow. My participation in climbing over recent decades has developed my perspective. Freedom. You say you value it, but I'm not sure. If I were to chop a bunch of jugs into your favorite 5.12 pitch, opening through my hard work access to those who otherwise wouldn't contemplate an ascent, I'll bet you'd object. And yet, that kind of liberty is precisely what you're defending. Prior to the bolt, many degrees of freedom existed. People could deal with the suspect protection (as countless have), back off, improve their skills until they were ready to top-rope the route, etc. Adding a bolt, one could argue, diminishes this freedom. What we have now is simply a safer route at the expense of altering the very nature of the climb so that one must encounter the kind of engineering that dominates the abundance of generic sport climbs found at other crags. With an additional bolt, one diminishes freedom by decreasing the variety of experiences available in rock climbing.

Ya know I have no idea why anyone went to that hellhole WSU. They all ended up doing some possibly dangerous driving to come over to Moscow to drink. Even now with matching drinking ages Pullman is a stupid place to hang out. All the good bars are in Moscow. Back in the day (before my time) WSU wasn't even a university. The true name for WSU is the cow college. No kidding! WSU is a consolation for all the little dicks that couldn't make the cut at UW. And they've all got such a chip on their shoulders. A guy in my department is happier when UW football loses than when WSU wins. I suppose that's the reason they drink so much, knowing that they'll never be able to hide the fact that their degree comes from WSU.

Bad ass!

Doug, regarding the editing, far as I know you're doing well, kind of following the MTV formula of changning angles and sequences every few seconds to accomdate the vanishing attention span of American audiences. Regarding the music, I would suggest something more "available" to a wide audience of listening ears, something dramatic, but something less edgy. Perfect for this might be Night School from the CD "Ensemble Modern Plays Frank Zappa". Or something generic from your favorite pron flick.

What, you're one of the sponsors? Could you cut me a deal on some quick-draws that coordinate with my GriGri? Well there's you....

Most of the mountain-bike thing has been on dog-shit-covered jeep track and county gravel road (formerly a private driveway). And you are up way too late lurking for the opportunity to respond to my drivel. Ever seen fatal attraction? And your post is pregnant with tell-tale signs that you've been drinking.

Climbed 5.9/5.10 in Leavenworth last month all day off the couch. BFD. And I've climbed more than 243,000 feet off-pavement on my mountain bike since November, while balancing a career with a night job and raising three children. And your point is.....?

Yet another route climbed a brazillion times without a bolt and without an accident.......and now we need a bolt. Of course, one can choose not to clip the damn thing. What a joke. Backcountrydawg, your efforts would be appreciated if you had just cleaned the route instead of substantially changing the nature of the climb. Argus, no need to apologize for protesting yet another attempt to transform the proud tradition of rock climbing into a replication of a top-rope ascent of the REI plastic wall.

YOU! are ready to add a crowbar to your hardware rack.

That was the goofiest damn trip report I've ever read. But...it sure got me excited about Redoubt, a hill I've been looking at for years. One of your images made it onto my desktop. Thanks for posting your adventure.

I probably don't need to tell you then that you can get some "frank nuts" (in this case bomber RP's) in the middle of the bouldering sequence, which protect both you and your belayer for whichever route you take. BTW I love watching video of local climbs, especially when it's well done. Thanks for the effort.

She looked over at me with a glazed eye And some bovine perspiration on her upper lip area...

Back in the 1970's it was a first knuckle pinky crack all the way. Then Kit Lewis did the whole thing via lie back (in Galibier Super Guides). He pulled so hard on the edge of the crack that it actually opened up to its current hand-jam size (and is now 5.8+).

Very entertaining! Hey Flash, ask "Doug" if we're gonna see the 5.11 part in the final edit (you know, the bouldering move off the belay).

Very well done, Dru. A day in the North Cascades and a boy becomes a man.

Don't miss this!

Yeah, that stuff is mine. We got a little drunk celebratin' graduation and all. Please return the gear. I'll buy you a six-pac (if you're old enough).

I'd rather sit home and spank my tally-whacker.

Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off". Dude that’s just rude!!!! OFF has declined putting up easy manufactured routes at his crag and it’s a freak’n quarry... link (don't know why OW took down the photos) Uh, that would be because they weren't my photos, fool. It was some educational venue in New Zealand, I guess they took them down. Someone seems to have swallowed the hook though... You got me! OW, we should do a climb some time. What's on your wish list?