Gerg

I've had my Stubai's for a couple of years, and I've really enjoyed them. They do wear down more quickly on rock. It is mostly a rounding of the points, not wearing them down to nubs. If you don't sharpen them, they will wear more slowly. But even when worn down a bit, they still have enough bite to keep you in place on the glacier/snow. They work ok for short distances of front pointing, but are not the best choice for it. I have had a bit of a problem with snow balling, more so than with my steel Grivel's. Since I couldn't find an anti-bot plate for the Stubai's, I forced the Grivel anti-bot plate onto the Stubai. The Stubai Aluminum is a bit thicker than the Grivel steel, so a bit of forcing (eg pliers) was required. But now that it is on there, I leave it there and there has been no more problems with balling. Strap system generally works pretty well, although I have had occasional problems with the straps loosening during a climb. Just remember to check them every pitch or so. For generaly glacier walking, they have been problem free. Also, if you have big dogs like me (size 15), you will have to make or buy extension bars. I made mine and believe that they are needed for most boot sizes over 12 or 13 YMMV. The Grivel extension bars may or may not fit, I didn't try them. Greg

I'm a big fan of the 00 Metolius. I prefer the Metolius TCUs over Aliens. The fit my hands a little better. As far as placements go, both have worked fine for me in most situations. The BD micro-camalots are a little heavier, if I recall correctly. They have a little bit broader range for a particular size. Have not had any problems with the BD cams. Like their trigger design the best, as it does fit my hands the best. Do not like the trigger wires and how easily they get mucked up. G

The route in Nelson's first book is fun. Like Mr. Bone says, nuts and hexs are enough gear. The last belay station isn't in an obvious place, I didn't think, as the rap ring and sling had blown back on top of the ledge where I couldn't see it from below. I ended up setting a belay about 10 feet below it, using a 0.2 camalot and some nuts and a cordelette. I felt a lot more secure with the camalot than if i had used a 00 metolius. Haven't done the route in the second book yet, so can't provide any beta for it.

They put me in a hard bottom shoe, not a cast. It too is just a strap-on. Think I could get someone to put some sticky rubber on it?

I don't think a strap-on will help you climb Stuart. Maybe a 00? [This message has been edited by Gerg (edited 07-10-2001).]

Kalun, I did learn from my mistakes. For clarification, the bounce test was done before weighting it (i.e. while still on a previous piece), trying to avoid said fall. The cam did not appear to move or shift. It is obvious in hindsight that I did not test the piece vigorously enough before commiting to it. The intent of the climb was to do aid, not to free climb. While I can free climb 5.7 quite easily, I chose to aid the line as that was OUR intent for the climb. In the future, I will be more picky about chosing the best method for ascending a climb irregardless of MY intent for the climbing the route. Point 3 is duely noted. While I was cautious using the 00 cam in the past, I will be even more so in the future. Thanks for your input and everyone's well wishes. G

lambone, The new aiders make jugging super easy. No worries about feet popping off steps. I use standard daisies. Once I get used to working with the adjustable aiders, they will be pretty nice. Like I said, it was my first time with these, so things got all twisted up. A little more experience and getting the system down will make for smoother use. If you already have a set of aiders, I wouldn't spend the money replacing them with these. If you are getting a new set of aiders, they may be worth the couple extra dollars. If you only second aid lines, or use aiders for jugging, then I would definately recommend them. Like I said, a little practice with them will make using them a lot easier for use on lead. My biggest complaint about these aiders is the extra attention you have to pay to keep the release loop from getting tangled up. I didn't... If I recall correctly, the bolt I fell on was an older 3/8", not any of the manky quarter inchers that are on the route. In any case, it did hold. Greg

Partner aided the first pitch, I jugged. I started aiding up the second pitch. Clipped the bolt that was there, cam hooked up a ways. Placed a piece, which bounce tested fine. Was resting there, bumbling around with the new Metolius adjustable aiders. Placed an Orange Metolius cam above the piece I was resting on. Continued bumbling with aiders--the release handle had become twisted on both aiders and I couldn't release it enough to where I could clip the highest piece. While trying to straighten out my aiders, the 00 cam I was sitting on popped out. I fell ~15 feet to the ledge, landed feet first, bounced off and fell back/down head first another 15 feet. Knocked shoulder and head on wall. Net result was a badly twisted left ankle, broken metatarsel (sp) bone in my right foot, plus the expected scrapes and cuts. Thank God I was wearing a helmet. Upon examination of the cam once returning to ground, we found the cam to be OK. Reason for fall, improper placement of cam (not cammed far enough). Should have used the right sized cam or better yet, a nut as per suggestions in route beta. Greg [This message has been edited by Gerg (edited 07-06-2001).]

Broke my foot in a fall on the second pitch on City Park on Wednesday. In doing so, I unintentionally left an orange metolius cam (with 'biner) about 15-20ft up. If anyone grabs it or knows who ends up with it, I'd appreciate its return. Also, found a rope at the base of the climb. If you can identify it, I'd be more than happy to return it to you. Thanks, Greg

Jon, Tim or cascadeclimbers, Any hope of getting this thread transfered to the "Select Climbs Corrections" section of the board so as not to loose this beta? Greg

What route did you have in mind? gev

Turns out I need to be at work in Portland (at the job I just quit) on Monday and Tuesday, but the rest of the week I'm free. Let me know what your poison is and we'll see what we can work out. gev

The Buffalo Run on hwy 20 is not only slow as shit, but the burgers suck. They're all preformed, frozen patties.

The Buffalo Run on hwy 20 is not only slow as shit, but the burgers suck. They're all preformed, frozen patties.

Looking for someone to climb with for any or all of this time frame. Road trip or local. Peak bagging, trad or sport. Prefer long, moderate routes over those that are short and desperate. gvalenti@hotmail.com

While I haven't actually been up there, the Gifford Pinchot webpage says that the road to Killen Creek Trail IS snow free. http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/ scroll down the left frame and look for Mt Adams climbing reports... gev

If you are talking about the route up the Colchuck glacier, it is a pretty straight forward walk up. My wife and I didn't find it neccessary use any ropes or pro (YMMV). Crampons and an axe should suffice. gev

I have a bright and shiny quarter...

The actor or character. "You want a beer?" "Is it cold? "I thought you would draw the line at hauling ice."

Don't forget: The Tooth 3pitch 5.4, Ingalls Peak 3 pitch 5.4 or 5 pitch 5.7, or Martian diagonal 2 pitch 5.5 and Martian Direct 2 pitch 5.8 at Peshastin Pinnacles I'm a big fan of ingalls peak but don't know approach conditions. Heard that it is still under a lot of snow. gev

A google search for "The Cascades Conservation Partnership" brings up: http://www.ecosystem.org/tccp/ gev [This message has been edited by Gerg (edited 05-02-2001).]

I used to have a copy of directions on making the rugs from ropes. It is pretty easy to do, if you have the time. The original rope-rugs came from sailors retiring old lines and/or making pads to preserve woodwork under tackle. If you spend some time at the library or at a sailing shop looking through books on knots and ropecraft you will probably be able to find instructions. Looking through Barnes and Noble, I found this book. Though I haven't actually looked at it, the description claims to have instructions on making rope mats and plaits. http://shop.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?userid=0BQOVVSR01&mscssid=BPDJMP5FTMKQ8NJ0CG8190EF4TG06E6D&isbn=1566197716 Greg [This message has been edited by Gerg (edited 05-01-2001).]

If you wish to make comments on the Fee Demo Program, go to http://www.fs.fed.us/recreation/fee_demo/commentform.html

That would be a 70m fall they suffered while they were practicing rescue techniques. Both climbers survived, though there were many broken bones between them. [This message has been edited by Gerg (edited 04-24-2001).]

I've been using the Kashmin 50 for the last 2 seasons. It's held up quite well on rock and mixed routes. The compression straps are effective at pulling in any gear that I have left in the pack. The fabric has shown expected wear, but no tears or excessive worn spots. The fit is comfortable and there is enough adjustability to match a variety of people. The exterior pocket (removeable), is great for storing food or fits a Gregory Hydrocell perfectly. The three things I am disappointed in are that there are: 1) no provision for attatching crampons, though something can be improvised with the integral daisy chain on the back and 2) while there are 2 ax loops, there is no upper attatchment point for the ax handles when the axes are being stored. Again, loops can be improvised. 3) there is no top compression strap for holding a rope across the top of the pack under the lid. I've not found a good improvised fix for this, but I'm considering taking it to a repair shop to see if they can sew something in.