jblakley
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Posts posted by jblakley
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Beta is a personal interpretation. There are usually a few different ways to climb a given route so one person may say did it in three pitches with a 50m rope where someone with a 70m rope could do it in 2. There are so many variables that beta should only be viewed as approximation and not an absolute.
For instance I did Burgundy Spire a few years ago and at this point my beta would be very general because I have forgotten so much of it. I would lower your expectations and get beta from numerous resources.
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quote:Originally posted by The Antagonizer:You all sound like a bunch of fucking dinks. Annoying. I think a better word than "newbie" is CHERRY. Cherries!Hey Sargent Rock. Did you know that a sarge is a fish that eats shit off the bottom of the ocean? That's one of the first things the friendly ol' drill sergeant beats into your brain during recruit training. Did you know Sergeant is spelled Sergeant?Going climbing. Later Internet Pussies!
Dude if you want to live up to that alias you gave yourself you'll have to do better than that. Pigeon farts released in the upper atmosphere do more to antagonize than your thin witted verbal quiffs. C'mon dude step up to the plate. What are you afraid of?
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Charlie,
You climbed with "Big Joe"? Dewd that must have been bordering on the religious! Is it true that he fashions all of his aid pieces from used auto parts? Good job guys!
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Seems high to me. I think you could internet shop and eventually find a tent of that caliber brand new for not much more than that.
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If it's that cold I just sleep in more clothes. If my feet are cold I leave my inner boots on then just slide them into the shell in the morning and voila..warm boots. The warm nalgene bottle trick works pretty good too, just make sure that lids on tight!
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Not sure if this is at all related but I was up at Muir a few weeks ago and overhear 'BL' complaining to some of his peons that some dude named 'Poop' was stalking him and that he was thinking about a restraining order.
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Well first of all, and anybody correct me if I'm wrong, but rigid soled boots will flex some, certainly more than rigid crampons. So here's the formula I'm postulating:
(rigid boots + rigid crampons) = almost no flex = cookie cutter snow retention = slide to death
(rigid boots + hinged crampons) = some flex = less snow retention = :-)
Unless your going to be doing technical ice/mixed climbing there is no advantage to rigids. What's this fetish for all things rigid you have Jman? <snicker>
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I just picked my nose and flicked the booger onto my computer screen. Top that!
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I'm not sure about the newer rigids but my Footfangs are noticeably heavier than my G12's. Something else to think about. Of course if you really want to go light those new Stubai Ultralight is da shit. I've only used them once but I had them on in a steep couloir in light hikers and they had plenty of bite.
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Buttons have been pushed. To the B-Cage boys!! Sorry Beck I do have to admit that the visual of a stuffed bear stuck to your ass had me chuckling.
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quote:Originally posted by Dan Larson:A light bulb just went on in my head . Why in the world would any serious person with a life . Bother communicating with the bunch on this site . Grow up, do you people realize how stupid you sound . I am signing off this site for life . But I am sure i will get some hate E-mails anyway . Hope you people climb better than you sound . I bet your mothers are very proud.
Well Danno it's all a matter of perspective I suppose. From your perspective perhaps I am one of those stupid sounding individuals that needs to grow up. From my perspective I would say you have just thrown a bitch tantrum and perhaps could benefit from some inner child therapy. Such a serious young lad!! <snicker>
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Huh? Did I miss something here? Beck are you trying to interject non-fiction into a perfectly good and twisted fictional yarn?
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quote:Originally posted by dynamite:Hey guys... sorry I missed the festivities last night. Got a bootie call from a hunky dude, and that took precedence over the pub crawlin.
At least I know where my priorities are. *Heh heh* Gotta nurse my hickies now...[This message has been edited by dynamite (edited 08-22-2001).]
As the saying goes "One waiting under the sheets is worth a whole shitload in the pub" ..er, something like that. Rock on Dynamite. Makes me feel less guilty for being shallow and lustful!
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Erik,
I appreciate your mastery of Gibberese but please leave my mom out of this.
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I speak fluent Gibberish
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Here's an idea for a story:
Pen you could do the Parkland/Spanaway traverse in your Hummer. Culminating in a heinous ascent of formidable Spire Rock. Then write a book about it. Believe me after that you'll have to hire Caveman and Dru to keep the Betties away from you.
[This message has been edited by jblakley (edited 08-21-2001).]
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"Adventures of Teddy Ruxpin in the Danger Zone"
Author: Beck
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Pen my man you are one entertaining mofo!
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Yeah I think there is a correlation here. I know when I was new to climbing I really liked the gear. Eventually though the gear becomes just a means to an end and now I try to only buy gear I know I will use. I try to avoid climbing with people who put more emphasis on color coordinating all their clothing/gear than actually getting out and doing stuff. I definitely think this is not limited to climbing though. I used to get great satisfaction into dusting someone on a bike with all the latest Tour De France poser wear. Ahh well to each his own.
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Got another bivy hummer from your climbing partner Sven eh Pen? You two make such a cute couple. You guys should tie the knot...so to speak. ;-)
[This message has been edited by jblakley (edited 08-20-2001).]
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quote:Originally posted by erik:blakley, so are there any lamb chops left over???? i originaly thought the smell was caveman, but now i know it is rotten put of eastsider.
What the hell is "rotten put of eastsider"? Was you home schooled by your momma/aunt? :-) Nothing as big as a lamb chop left unfortunately. I did inadvertently invent the worlds first aerosol sheep-based product however. It's settling all over the PNW as we speak. If you breathe in hard you can actually huff the equivalent of a leg of lamb.
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Erik,
I'll have you know that I change out the plate in my head every month or so. Got me a cool Kevlar number this time. Supposed to help with rockfall. And further more smart guy, the thermonuclear device I created used the methane in a sheeps stomach to trigger a small blast which in turn triggered the Plutonium I tricked the sheep into swallowing to start a fissile chain reaction. The result was baaaaoooooomm! I called it the H-bomb (h = haggis).
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LOL. Beck that was hilarious. You all have a nice weekend. I'm off to go sport climbin' on Stuart. No Stuart is not my gay life partner..lol.
Pen: You are way too phucking phunny. Have a good weekend!
[This message has been edited by jblakley (edited 08-17-2001).]
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Dude you're a riot! LOL I happened to glance on your profile before and it was Stratford or some other backwater burg in Wa State and then I glanced at it later (yes I am bored enough to do all of this shit) and you had changed it to Shasta, Ca and carreer to Pro Mountain Guide as if anyone here would give a shit if you were. I like you Pen. Stick around. :-)
Who should you believe?
in Climber's Board
Posted
You were not being flamed. You wanted feedback and you got it. I suggest to anybody that is new to anything to have an open mind and keep the ego locked in the closet. There is no template for beta. Unless you're in the Mountaineers. I think they have a form or something for that. Probably the "Beta 10.2 - Cascades" form or something like that..lol. All beta given is accurate to the person giving it. And I think it's ridiculous for everyone giving beta to qualify their experience and ability. That said go out and have a good weekend!