jblakley

Dot Commers? C'mon Erik everyone knows that species is extinct! [ 01-28-2002: Message edited by: jblakley ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Whoa! Funky moves to the belay, looks pumpy! Nice Wayyy pumpy for me! I must confess that I have not done this one without hanging. Great pics. Nice job. I remember getting around the corner and saying "What the fuck"! There is a wierd little chimney downclimb to get to the belay. Great climb.

quote: Originally posted by Paul K: My guy is so burly, he doesn't need to come with a female. Dude I don't want to know.

A better way to feel at one with the High Tech industry is to find a high quality porn site with live streaming video.

What about Old English 800? http://www.bungie.com/products/pimps/pimpsatsea.htm

So you calling yourself a 5.8 climber these day's Chuck? lol Just phuckin wit ya. Chucko's a stout trad boy. Hey remember Karate Crack Charlie? There's an easy 10a! (hilarious laughter)

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: long live "ego" grades. i'll go back to smith when everything goes up one full number grade so that i can feel like i'm cool. until then i'm off to do laps on "sweet pain" barefoot and naked with a watermelon tied around my waist! Ok who gave you the "secret" beta on Sweet Pain? OK ok so the crux involves a no hands rest made possible by a prick jam (hence the nudity), which allows a shakeout before you pull the roof. Hence the name "Sweet Pain". I'm unaware of this watermelon beta. Fill me in. Not literally of course Nature Boy!

I absolutely love Red Rocks, soft ratings and all! Maybe the soft ratings ARE why I love RR! lol The sport at RR is steep and juggy (which is what I like) VS balancy and crimpy at Smith. Don't get me wrong I love Smith too, it's just a little harder on the ego. I plan on going back to RR in the spring again with friends to try some of the multi pitch trad and sport. Actually one of my favorite trad routes is at Smith..Zebra/Zion is an absolute blast! If you go to RR and want to try an easy 12a, Sweet Pain is the ticket. And yeah it is a lot of fun!

I have to agree with Will on that one. Finally redpointed a 5.12a at Red Rocks this last November and in no way would I call myself a 5.12 climber. The climb I did at RR in all honesty would probably be an 11c at Smith. I climb for a variety of reasons and numbers are way down the list. If I climbed only for the numbers I would be a bit depressed. :-)

Chongo, Everybody here? Don't hate yourself bro! Self love is a beautiful thing..just keep it indoors and have a rag handy.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: People don't like all the crapo that is being flung around. So in response you fling more. Regarding me perpetuating it, there is an element of truth there. And I am sorry but I just cannot accept the bullshit bashing. Sorry I just think the board should be hospitalble for all climbers. "People don't like..."? That's a sweeping generalization. Some people like it, some don't and quite a few (like myself) are indifferent to a lot said here. I'm not big on bashing people either. I kind of subscribe to the Karma thing and when I am bashing someone it's usually indicative of my own state of contentment or lack thereof. I'm not fond of the mindset that some subscribe to that involves trying to change the environment to their liking. Usually people trying to control there environment in this manner are continually discontent since others typically will not respond to string pulling. So for instance some lady call me a "punk" standing in line at the grocery store. Do I lecture her on her rudeness? Kick the shit out of her? Make some snide remark and walk away relativley unfazed? I don't know..there are an infinite number of ways to deal with this. I may not agree with some of the things that are said on this board but the last thing I would want is to have some type of "PC Censor" to make sure that nobody is offended. I really appreciate and gravitate towards people who are honest and say what they are thinking instead of people who are always worried about what they say or try to tell me what I should and should not say. Why do you give a shit Rodchester about what anybody says about a friend of yours? You know what is true and what is not right? People are going to say and think what they want, there's no controlling that eh?

I have a pair of the Stubai aluminium crampons and they are very light. I bought them originally for taking in alpine rock outings with steep glacier/snow approaches. The only reason I would not recommend them for general mountaineering is I'm not sure how they would hold up to that kind of abuse. Anyone out there use these crampons over a long period of time? Curious how durable they are.

I've have both a pair of the SMC and a pair of the G-12's. The SMC's are now loaners to friends. The SMC's have absolutely no advantage of the Grivels and by the time you buy straps for the SMC's the cost is about the same. G-12's are a lot easier to put on and perform a lot better. Also with the better design of the new generation of step in crampons, the issue about old style crampon strapping sytems being more secure is now almost a non issue.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Will: Judging by the amount of smearing I bet many wouldn't post here. (Phatty - you are actually great in my book) Now are you suggesting that ALL legends are sensitive and can't take any shit flippin' and don't like off color humor? I doubt that's the case. That suggests that in order to become a legend one must be uptight and serious all the time.

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP:So how old is Mr. Blakely that he knows so much? Alpine (and Big Wall) experience and wisdom is often cumulative. By your attitude, Fred Beckey should be in a nursing home swapping stories about the good old days with Jim Donini, both of whom could probably say "back in the day" decades before young pope. When you are older, you will realize that you knew little or nothing when you were younger.RURP has spoken. Hmmm..dilemna...do I initiate nervous, groveling backpedal, or do I point out that previous comment I made was merely an attempt at mild, chiding humor not actually to belittle Mr Pope, but to give him a friendly, loving jab? Oh wait.."friendly, loving jab" ??? Begin backpedal now......

Careful Pope. Usually when one starts using the phrase "Back in the day" a daily dose of Senior Moment and Depends are usually around the corner.

Yes I am a plastic Jesus. I only need a plastic blow up Mary Magdelene to make my life complete!

Scoutin' for a guide for yourself Will? Not sure I can do 5.11 sandstone but I can do the cable route up Tiger Mt. in under 4 hours! Do I get the gig?

Bobby me boy! Yes I am still microhard..oh wait do I work there! Sorry misunderstood. Yep. Watch ya up to this weekend? Drop me a message.

quote: Originally posted by W: "(laughing)..So of course what do they do? All seven or eight of them look over simultaneously and their headlamp beams converge right on her ass, and here's this nine inch banana comin' out !" The woman was of course mortified. Ok guys the previous stuff was funny but "Fruitus Tropicalus Defecatus" is a serious gastrointestinal disorder. I hope she had that condition checked out. (snicker)

I'm proud of ya boy!! And your mammy said you'd never 'mount to nuthin.

Good topic. I think the bottom line is anybody or anything that becomes successful tend to be branded a sellout or establishment. When Nirvana hit it big all of a sudden a lot of the bands of the same genre labeled them as sellout. I have no particular allegiance to any company. If I need a pc of gear or clothing I research it, ask around, look for a good price and buy it. That's capitalism. Do I care if fat, sedentary people on Capitol Hill start wearing the same stuff I do? No. Why should I?

This definitely sounds like personal preference. I have to go with E and the C'man on the pants. I tend do generate a lot of heat while moving and bibs are just way to hot for me. Plus the previously mentioned weight issue. I've got some Arc'teryx Beta LT pants and they're very light and compact. I figure if I'm getting into positions where I need bibs to keep snow from pouring into my nether regions then I need to rethink my technique and/or route. lol I definitely have to try some of this Shoeller stuff. I keep hearing good things about it.

"Given the choice of to suck or to be sucked I must say I would chose the later" (thick Indian accent) Ghandi

Well I've only ever actually used Metolius so I really don't have any comparison. I can say however that they seem to work well and more importantly look cool.