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Everything posted by jblakley

  1. Mount Hood--Leuthold Couloir, the unroped route

    I would say the average angle is around 45 degrees. It may kick back to 50 degress in spots but for the most part I would say a steady 45. I don't know if anyone has skied it but I imagine someone has.
  2. Mount Hood--Leuthold Couloir, the unroped route

    They were roped together but had no pro in. On guy popped off and jerked the other guy down with him. Witnesses said they had to be doing about 50mph and going airborn occasionally. In my opinion one of them had no business being on it. He was way out of shape for that sort of thing and probably got tired and tripped on a crampon. Thats one of the reasons I prefer going unroped on some stuff. It's always a measured risk though :-)
  3. Mount Hood--Leuthold Couloir, the unroped route

    I would say definitely keep him on the S side. While the Leuthold route is not that bad for anyone used to traveling on steep snow/ice I think it could be downright scary and/or dangerous for a newbie. I know of a couple of people I knew who fell down that thing and they were lucky to escape with just a few broken bones. You could throw in pro but depending on conditions (ie too soft for screws but too hard for pickets) it may or may not hold. Plus it would add a shitload of time to the ascent. The S side will be plenty adventurous for a first timer.
  4. Mount Hood--Leuthold Couloir, the unroped route

    I did this route with a friend back in Feb. We went unroped using just crampons and an ice ax. Took us about 6.5 - 7hrs from the parking lot. One of my top five favorite alpine ice/snow routes. Just have to make slipping not an option. Stay hydrated and take plenty of GU or other sustenance so you don't get tired and start tripping on your own crampons. :-)
  5. protection

    Rigid Stem Friend?? Is that what you're calling Mr Happy these days Zenolith? :-) And if so dude don't sell it. I'm sure you'd miss it eventually.
  6. just some guy

    You humans are so weak and pathetic!! That is why we will take over your planet with nary a whimper from you....uh sorry that was the only logical response I could come up with for ZDFG's nonsensical spew. :-) Carry on.
  7. The Future

    I climb because it keeps me in the moment. I also like the challenge of pushing whatever my current standard is. Perhaps it is my age (an old fartish 37) that unburdens me with the concern of where the future of climbing lies and who is going to take us there. To be honest the only issue of the future I am concerned with is that of access. I think it's really cool that climbing is evolving and harder stuff is being done but it does not keep me up at night worrying about it. Alright I'm off my little milk crate.
  8. Snow Pants???

    I knuckled down and bought a pair of Arc'Teryx Beta LT's and really love them. Arc'Teryx makes really quality stuff. However they are not cheap. About 300 bucks. Might be able to find some on sale though. Good luck. Jim
  9. Message for Who Cares

    Yeah I'm with W. Who gives a shit. I may get mildly competitive with friends but I am mainly in this for the fun, adventure and friendship. I find it hard to get excited about a guy who claims that all climbers in a given geographic area suck. I wonder if he has ever climbed in the rain...LOL Maybe we could find out what state he's from and our state and their state could have a rumble!! By the way my dad can beat up your dad Curt!! LOL
  10. Actually I was kinda thinking that maybe incorporating porn into this site would reduce the amount of surfing required and maybe generate some profit for these guys on the side.
  11. Winter Routes, Part II

    Just did Leuthold Couloir on Mt Hood on Wed the 14th. Good conditions and very cool route. Would highly recommend this as a winter route.