jblakley

Sorry guys but I am still finding it hard to get worked up over the bolting issue. I do have ethics such as no excessive bolting, no bolting cracks etc. but I'm not with the ban bolts crowd. I am going to commit a major faux pas here by admitting to sport climbing and actually enjoying it. I also enjoy trad climbing and mountaineering and naked twister (with chicks of course!). So I guess I am somehow morally bereft and just a general all around wuss eh? It seems as if the mentality around here is 'you're either against sport climbing or you're against us'. Am i reading too much into this? I know Bryan as an acquantance and happen to think he is just a great human being. I don't think he got into climbing to make money and I have heard that most of what he has made off the books went into paying for the gear he has used to put up routes. If he is making a lot of money it doesn't show in the car he drives. Has his part in developing routes caused a negative impact on climbing in Washington. Well I guess that depends on what you see as negative. So explain this to me: why does an individual have to either like trad or sport but not both? I am not an old school climber as I have only been doing this for 8 - 9yrs so maybe I would feel differently if I had started in the 70's. Or maybe I'm just a wuss :-)

I must say that I have never heard the term "onsight" used to describe having success on a mountaineering route. Was this a sport mountaineering route? Maybe I'm just not hip with some of the fresh sick and dope lingo of modern mountaineering.

quote: Originally posted by hollyclimber: I don't think we want to discuss the pros and cons of the mountaineers in this thread...we could talk about it for a long time. My point is really that if Dan hadn't said those negative things about the mountaineers, which came across to me as a little extra rude considering that he was recently a part of their program, I might have been interested in climbing with him. I also think that the comments on this forum on my potential climbing ability from people who don't know me, which isn't even relevant to the topic, sort of illustrates that. I defend the mountaineers, I get slammed. Ummm..ok so you took things personally and don't want to climb with Dan. I saw multiple responses from people willing to climb with Dan. Doesn't sound like he has a problem. I don't have a problem with the Mountaineers per se. I have been involved with both the basic and intermediate courses in the past and happen to think they are a great way to learn basic skills and meet people to climb with. I do have a problem with some of the elitest types in the organization who let their egos steer them almost exclusively. The "I'm going to conquer the mountain attitude". Summits seem to be only ego trophys to put in their den. The type of people who think the Mountaineers have the market cornered on competent and challenging climbing. If your are happy being in and participating in Mountaineers activities why do you even give a shit what anybody else says. Again you seem to be overly sensitive on this.

Lately for mountaineering I have been using GU. It packs small, doesn't easily freeze up like power bars, and the chocolate flavor has caffeine in it. I'm also a big fan of Pop Tarts. I'll also take along some type of muscle recovery drink such as Endurox R4 and use that twice a day. Really seems to help.

Hollyclimber, Did I miss something here? I'm still trying to figure out where in this thread that Dan "slammed" the mountaineers. Sounds like you were a bit on the sensitive side you hard 5.11 climbing person you.

I'm a big fan of Tiger's Milk. There is a lot of integrity and bravery wrapped up in that product. I mean the guy in charge of milking those big cats has gotta be one tough bastard. Makes climbing look like a girl scout activity. PC Disclaimer: The girl scout reference was meant in no way to denegrate women climbers.

After some thought, I'm with Cavey on this one. However my dad can beat up your dad.

Cool a sick phat new route to throw down some ill moves on!! I got the beta on this one...delicate mantle up on the chin..undercling left nostril...dyno for eyelid..hang by one hand and chalk up to look good for the bettys then some delicate crimping up the forehead. Dude this is gonna rock! I'm gonna have to wash my new Ropegun shorts for this!

ScottP, I don't think you should hold back dude. I think a certain amount of conflict is good for any discussion. Get's everyone to think. If someone is offended by someone elses opinion then maybe they should go talk to their mommy and tell her how the bad people don't agree with him/her. I'm not very fond of any form of censorship. I say let it all hang out. Well not all...hey..put that away!!

Very elegant backpedal Jman. I think I am watching a master at work..LOL. I love the re-edit of the original. You aren't in politics by any chance are you...sorry, just kidding :-)

Jman, Even you must appreciate the irony of this thread. Thanks for filling my day with humor! Cheers Jim

Scott, You definitely have a different definition of Alpine-style than I have ever read or heard of. Alpine-style as far as I'm concerned is carrying your own gear up the mountain without caching, multiple camps or outside support.

Hmmmm, how best to word this?? You know I really like this website the way it is. I think Jon and Tim have done a fine job and should not be asked to put in even more work than they have. I find that there is a generous amount of information passed back and forth and yes there is the dreaded humor so ever present. I find it somewhat humorous in fact that you, Jman, would attempt to wade in here and have the site censored to your liking. Do you find that this philosophy works in your life? The control thing that is. People coming and going from this site would happen irregardless from the content. If someone leaves because they don't like the level or quality of the humor..well that's their decision. Reminds me of the Rush song 'The Trees' where the Maples have the Oaks cut down to their level because they are in the shadow of the Oaks. Do try and pass out those scripts to those around you so they will know how to make you a nice day. :-)

quote: Originally posted by panther: The late, great, and much-much missed Alex Lowe said that "the best climber is the climber having the most fun". Panther I agree with the best/fun correlation. However using the system we need to have a measurable way of determining who indeed is having the most fun. I propose the CFMS (Cascadian Fun Measurement System). This system will use the nomenclature F.n.l I.E. this climber is the best because he scored a F.10.c when soloing the Cable route up Tiger Mt. Of course ethics will always be a consideration such as when he did this was he wearing a clown suit? That would be in bad style in my opinion and he should probably be out of the running. Fun is a serious and intense issue and as such one should be forced to prove what level of fun they have experienced. Any input here would be appreciated.

I AM NOT F&(*ING CRANKY!!

Wow, the spray be sharp today mon! I'm going to counterpoint you Pope. Using my waayyy scientific she-man algorithm (which is actually some munged up code from the Space Shuttle's guidance module) I have deduced that either: a) Ms Top Step is actually a Mr. Top Step b) Donna is actually Mark Twight sans medication. or c) Donna is an ex-member of the now defunct East German Woman's Greco-Roman Wrestling Team. I do agree however that having children is a much more honorable undertaking than climbing. I certainly don't think the decision not to have kids is wrong however. Rockrat is indefatigably (had to work that into a sentence once today) a chick. Rock on Rockrat! Pope go beat your kids :-)

There are actually some very helpful tips I have gleaned from that movie. For instance Nitro is now my 11th essential along with 5 matches, a bandaid, 2 condoms (that's what they mean by pro right?), a pack of GU and one Depends adult diaper. [This message has been edited by jblakley (edited 06-06-2001).]

Dude!! You got yourself all whipped up into a froth with no input from anyone whatsoever. That was quite a trick. I sense that something heavy is weighing on yer shoulders. I prescribe a visit to Pope Confessional. Cleanse thy soul of any celestial excrement my brothaaa!

That's right Brotha Charlie. Who needs women when you have two perfectly functioning palms. Remember if you can't love yourself you can't love anybody else.

Right again Doug!! On to the bonus round!!

Oh my god Doug your right. Burn the infidel!! <lots of chuckling> This should stir up a few turtle heads.

Yeah I'm not really bogged down with integrity on this issue. I like trad and I like sport. Trad and chicks however do not seem to mix with some exceptions (don't hurt me Donna :-)). Call me shameless but I actually enjoy watching the female form in skin tight clothing dancing up a sport route. Hell I even talk to them sometimes...and sometimes they talk back!! For me there is definitely a social element to climbing i.e. it's nice to get some occasionally. Of course if you're married or with girlfriend it takes on a different dynamic..or not..right Pope? <snicker>

Methinks we are tiptoeing through a Freudian minefield!! <snicker chortle>

Dru, You've obviously been bitten by the Literal bug. One of the main symptoms is taking everything literally. Say 23 hail Mary's and sing an Abba tune of your choice while standing in your skivvies in front of your picture window at home. This is guaranteed to restore your sense of humor...or at least anyone bearing witness to this :-)

Well Charlie I'll of course let the Pope have the final say, but in my opinion the first part is only a minor transgression and requires no penance. Owning Prana and Ropegun clothing however is a mortal sin and your pitiful soul will surely rot in hell for all eternity for that one. Have a nice day :-)