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texplorer

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Posts posted by texplorer

  1. Hello all,

    A long time ago I added DDD to MP.com. I was originally told that the FA did not include bolts but there seems to be some question about this.

     

    I know that Dan Lapeska has posted here before and so would be nice to get the story from the him or others on the FA but would welcome any others who know the true story too.

     

    I'm only interested in the FA and/or FFA. Bolting and chopping since then can be relegated to the spray.

  2. In the medical profession you see people label "allergy" to every reaction they have to a substance.

     

    As most of the posts above indicate the epi should be used when the airway is closing or closed and only provides a short duration. It causes relaxation of the smooth muscle by acting on alpha and beta receptors in the bronchial tree.

     

    However, if it is your first bee/wasp sting you may only have a small reaction. Subsequent exposures to the same stings in the future may bring on a greater reaction that can be life threatening. If you have been stung multiple times in the past and never had an anaphylactic reaction (ie couldn't breathe) then your probably fine without the epi pen in your arsenal.

  3. I am barely a .12 climber and got bloodline after a few times on it. I was working dracula when I left but agree that the moves while not as hard are more sustained. I remember when Mark and a few others were retro-trad climbing stuff over there and thought that B-line was pretty doable on gear if you get it dialed.

     

  4. Also a past due late entry. I guess I have to wait for 4 more years to enter these. I also added a big walls category since quite a few climbs seem to not quite be alpine or cragging.

     

    I thought you might enjoy them while your waiting on the Russian judge to give your pic a 6.0

     

    Scenic

    La Esfinge basecamp - Quebrada Paron - Cordillera Blanca - Peru

    Champagne Wishes & Caviar Dreams

    DSC00292c.jpg

     

     

    Cragging

    Boi-oi-oi-ing - Orange Pillar - Patricia Bowl - Rock Creek - Sierras

    So Many Options

    IMG_1926a.jpg

     

     

    Alpine

    Crystal Crag - Rock Creek - Sierras

    Purple and Yellow

    IMG_1901a.jpg

     

    Big Wall

    Trial & Terror - Basin Wall - Red Rock - Nevada

    Big Air and Big Dreams

    Basin_Wall_FA_075a.jpg

     

     

    Humor

    Quebrada Ishinca - Cordillera Blanca - Peru

    Kickin Ass

    IMG_2457a.jpg

     

     

    I would like to thank Brooke Sandahl and Metolius for providing a pro-deal for equipment on the Cordillera Blanca trip. Metolius Master cams are gold. Thanks

     

  5. I have a good deal of respect for him too but noticed that his new book seems to have a "part 1" and "part 2" as different books at $20 a piece. Wish he could have found a way to put that together. Still, he is probably one of the most influential and visionary climbers of the US.

     

  6. I have both offset aliens and metolious mastercam offsets.

     

    If your going with the metolious I would say go with the master cam offsets. I call em Metolious aliens.

     

    The Blue-Yellow and Yellow-orange are the money sizes. Next on the list would be the blue-purple.

     

    Having used both I think that Metolious has gone a long way to rivaling and maybe surpassing the alien. I definately think the mastercams will last longer than the triggers on the aliens but I still like the soft alloy used with the aliens. You can't go wrong with either really.

  7. Funny to hear of old bringmedeath on here. I did mescalito with him about 5 years ago. Now he has done quite a bit of sick aid since then but Mescalito was his first bigwall. I remember rapping after fixing to pitch 4 our first day and him saying that was the highest he had been off the deck.

     

    If your asking if Monkeyface will prepare you for Mesc I feel you probably are in for quite an experience. Mescalito is pretty sustained at A2-A3. We didn't have to hammer but as stated above we had a double set of offset aliens. A proficient team could probably fix and do the route in 4-5 more days. If your a new wall climber you might want to plan for 3-4 more (your pigs are going to be so fat, mwhahahaha).

     

    All that being said I have seen people who have never aided before walk up and solo el cap walls as hard as Mescalito. Who am I to tell you what is possible and what is not. Go for it.

  8. •Made it up the Capitan for the 8th time

    •A couple of car-to-car trips up the Hulk

    •Learned to surf (ie get pummeled by by waves)

    •Got a photo published and a name drop in the new gayer format Alpinist (that mag has to be getting soft)

    •Discovered the Sierras

    •Gave up a chance to do FAs in Peru with a honed partner to do another residency, WTF?

    •Got fatter

    •Enjoying the single life again

    •Learned what a Bezoar is.

     

     

     

  9. I bought Alan's first guide as I was just getting into climbing. Coming from Texas Smith seemed like heaven and the Watts guide became the definitive guidebook which I still rate all others. I have yet to find a guide that provides interesting commentary and beta on routes without spewing every last detail about the routes. I will probably never peruse a guide as much as I did that one. I hope that the new one is even just as good as the previous guide was. Thanks for the dedication ACW. -KRD

  10. Yea GGK, the options are pretty grim around vegas. I even hear that the overpriced campground is going to go up to $15/night.

     

    If your inclined to stay inside there are some cheap hotels in the downtown (north of the strip) area. Another option is crashing in your car in one of the Casino parking lots. I know a guy that stayed all summer in the Redrock casino lot. Lastly you can go out 160 going past black velvet onto Lovell rd and camp but that is quite a ways out from both the city and most of the park.

     

     

  11. Tried this route a few years back with Rumr and got torched but it felt "doable". Nice job on a classic route. Hope this thing gets more ascents.

     

    Moronbros: for your info the "supercrcack" which you speak of I beleive was originally named Supercrack Luxuryliner of the Desert

     

     

  12. This is how it starts bradley. You head outside, head to smith every weekend, your wife starts getting mad at your "addiction", you discover trad, buy 2 grand worth of gear, you head to yosemite, buy 2 grand of more gear, you wife threatens to leave . . .you think about how much more climbing you could do, you climb your first bigwall, you wife leaves you, you redpoint your first 5.12, you quit your job to roadtrip, you start doing FA's, . . . . . . you can call yourself a climber. Yep, have fun.

  13. Nice TR, brings back some great memories. This is my favorite route . . ever. It is never so tough of climbing but it just keeps coming at you. I brought a little more water than you I think and had a much less miserable experience but hey anybody that gets up this route in my book is badaaasss. I had also been climbing in the valley for about a month prior to my ascent.

     

    Some things I love about this route: In the falcon guide it says rappel or 4th class downclimb onto the main buttress. I remember thinking I have never seen overhanging 4th class before. Allen steck said that he brought alot of salty foods up on the FA and by the second day couldn't eat any of them due to having virtually no water (I think they brought like a 1/2 liter a day per person or something insane like that). The old veteran, Salathe, brought a tin of prunes. Steck said that the prunes were moist and he could actually get them down. A great story!

     

    This route is probably one of the highlights of my climbing career. Just one of those routes that captures everything: history, position, great moves, long, varied climbing, and of course an uber-classic.

     

    Nice job Will

  14. Around Tahoe you are correct. The climbing at Lover's leap, phantom spires, and sugarloaf is pretty prime. Donner Summit is about an hour up the pass toward Sacramento for single pitch stuff.

     

    I just moved to Reno and though am pretty busy am looking forward to hitting the Sierras. I've been looking for partners to get on some the classic Sierra routes and perhaps scope out some new lines there too. When you get here look me up.

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