ryland_moore

I guess that must be in reference to Steve Schneider (who's nickname is Schipoopi). God knows what he eats - must be pretty creative when you are soloing a first ascent on Central Tower of Torres del Paine over 20 days. Damn 20 days alone on a big wall in Patagonia?

Anyone know more details about the snowboarder who died this weekend trying to descend the Cooper Spur? That is an amazing route but I think there is some kind of hex on that route regarding descents.

I still receive a brand new TNF jacket once every year or so - I use as riding around town or as a wind breaker and as soon as the Gore wears out, I just send it back and get a new one for free. I have been doing this for the last 5 years, meanwhile I trust my month expeditions and even 2-3 day trips to Cloudveil. No way in Hell would I wear a Mountainlite in the high elevations. By sending back you worn out TNF jackets, you can get a little payback after they ripped you off for a piece of crap made by a company that sold out and now mass produces everything overseas in sweat shops. No wonder their products (not to mention their stock) have gone down hill over the last 4-5 years!

Although I never thought it would help, and I can't believe I am admitting this, but I actually borrowed a friend's book called "How to Climb 5.12". Originally I felt like it would be a joke, but actually had really good techniques and ideas, and although I was not taking notes, I absorbed a lot of what was said regarding training for problems and routes I would work on and the like. Before reading this I would try any route I felt I wanted to try without strategically thinking how it would benefit me in the long run. I still do that on occassion, but also look at routes as ones for redpoint, ones for flashj, warm-up, or future projects as well. Coupling that with climbing with guys who climb 5.11-5.14 and using their encouragment has really helped me climb stonger, increase endurance, and most of all, improve my technique. I can also now say I enjoy sport climbing, mainly for the social aspects and the friendships. Maybe I am in a unique situation, but the support and encouragement I have received has been the same whether living in rural Tennessee near Foster Falls, Jackson, WY, or Eugene. Hope this helps.

Also look into Cloudveil's IceFloe Jacket. Made with Schoeller it is the best jacket on the market for it's type. I have the Serendipity I picked up on a pro deal while working for an outdoor school based in Jackson and fell in love with Cloudveil products. The Snaz has followed me to some amazing climbing destinations and although it is missing pit zips, I felt it out performs any other shell I have ever worn. Maybe you want to support local businesses, but check out cloudveil's website and order directly from them. Usually, I find it is much cheaper. I haven't had a chance to put the Icefloe jacket to the test, but plan on testing it on some steep winter ice soon. I don't know much about the Icefloe Bibs, but I am sure with Cloudveil's quality and construction, that it is well worth the $300 bones. p.s. No, I am not a rep for Cloudveil....just a very satisfied customer

I have a Chevy extended cab silverado Z71-I do not recommend this truck for the city and use as a rec vehicle on the weekends. I have it for my job and when I lived in Wyoming. However, a pickup (4wd or not) is ideal. You can put a shell over the back, build shelves to the height of the wheel wells and then sleep on top. I have spent weeks roadtripping with it to places like Bishop, J- Tree, even Mexico. I like Toyotas the best. Something like the Tacoma. It all comes down to personal preference and the gas mileage is almost half of what the Outback gets. But if that is what you are mainly concerned about, I recommend the new Honda electric car. Good luck!

I was up there last weekend and the route is in the best shape I have ever seen it. The corridor doesn't last too long before you have to traverse right over to the Winthrop. No huge crevasses to cross. The bergshrund is th only area that may have broken through. Stll will not be a big deal to cross if it has fallen through though. There are some icy sections along the traverse. We placed a screw at night, but by the time we returned on the decent, the snow had softened up enough. There were some pretty recent snows a few weeks ago, I don't know what the sun did to it last week. That is as up to date as I can give you. Good luck. Ryland

Teewinot is a nice climb, although out of the main peaks of the Teton group, Teewinot always has the most injuries/accidents. There is no "easy" walk-up but a few routes with 4th-5th class scrambles. The rock is not as solid as you may find on other routes and the snow gullies can have heavy rockfall (although the snow has probably melted out of most of the couloirs by now). If you would like to try a nice route up Teewinot, I would reccommend the East Face.

P.S. Permits are a bitch to get this time of year- You will have to be creative if you want a spot on the lower saddle. It is not uncommon for people to be lined up out at Jenny Lake hours before the Ranger station even opens just to get the 24 hours in advance permits. So, you may not have a choice but to do it in a day. The trail is pretty straightforward, although going through the moriane field just before you get to the Meadows can be a bitch if you don't know where you are going or what you are looking for. Once at the meadows, it will be straight forward and pretty much on a trail the whole way to the Moraine cmapste and on up to the Lower Saddle. Look on the birght side- doing it in a day will make your pack alot lighter and you won't have to slog food, shelter, extra clothes and food up o the Meadows!

As a past resident of Jackson, I have done around 15 different climbs up the Grand and I agree alot with what others say. I have done it in a day on multiple occasions, but being acclimated to climb over 7,000' in a day is key. Another consideration is weather. Jackson is famous for mid-afternoon lightning storms and many climbers get stuck on a route like the Exum (there is really nowhere to bail unless you no exactly where to go once above Wall Street). So, if you are say at the Moraine or Lower Saddle early, then go for the Exum Direct, however I truely prefer the Petzolt Ridge - same difficulty, amazing line just to the right of the Exum but with less people. Also for the CMC route, you probably could not pick a more classic line. The high camp alone is worth the trip, but most people will take canoes across the lake to get to the climb which only adds to the adventure. There are only a few places that will rent canoes (unless you bring your own) in Jackson, so factor that in. My favorite routes: Black Ice Couloir, Grand CMC, Moran Petzolt Ridge, Grand Also for some real amazing climbing go into Death Canyon and check out Caveat Emptor 5.10 and The Snaz 5.9 - the two best crack climbs I've ever done. Good luck. E-mail me at rylandmoore@hotmail.com for any other questions or beta

I have had trouble with resolers in the NW. I highly reccomend the Rubber Room in Bishop, CA. Suffer paying a little extra and not having your shoes for @10 days to 2 weeks. It beats having your shoes trashed and you have to get rid of them and buy a new pair. The guys at Rubber Room are friendly, do amazing work, and are reliable. They have "saved" my climbing shoes that other resolers said were impossible to repair. Check them out at http://www.rubberroomresoles.com/

Sorry Jordan, There must have been 50 people down there from Oregon last week. The weather was amazing, the hot springs were flowing (after 9pm) and there were plenty of attractive women cranking all over. Looks like you may have missed your opportunity! The ice was still in at Lee Vining (barely). Good luck finding people to go with.