Pantalone

weekend after the accident (7/28, 29?) i climbed cutthroat with a friend and came across some blood covered gear and stuff. I would like to return it to its owner. can any of you forward him or a relative/friend my email address - k_arackellian@yahoo.com hope he is ok. thanks.

Route info on Lib Ridge as of last weekend. Getting on the ridge will become problematic as the burg will open up in the next few weeks. Don't linger crossing the Carbon glacier - we witnessed two massive avalanches sweep way down. Lots of loose rock below the Thumb - traverse early in the morning. Also, last 200 feet below Thumb Rock is very icy! Don't be shy using your ice tool(s)- we went with one tool and one ice axe which worked well. We had good conditions for most of Sunday. Did close to 1000' of easy (40 to 50 degrees) ice climbing. There are two steps (10' to 15' vertical each) at around 13,200' - 13,400' that can become difficult as the snow melts out. Great route but go as soon as the weather will allow.

Thanks for the info Ade and mguilfoyle. [This message has been edited by Pantalone (edited 05-24-2001).]

On the way up (6:30 to 12:30) the snow was good. On the way down (1:00 to 3:00) it was heavy in the chute and rotten (sugary) on the ledges. Pickets are useless on the ledges and marginal in the chute. If you want to protect the ledge traverse bring few slings - there are few horns that looked solid. If it is warm move fast and don't look up (or down). Bring few wands to mark where the ledges end and you go in the chute - will help you on the way back down to avoid a false ledge that dead ends (or turns into class 5 on rotten rock)

Climbed Rainier with a friend through the Gib Ledges route last Sunday. Encountered very strong winds (gusting to 50 mph - felt like a hundred at times). Worst was in the chute. Good snow early in the day but turned rotten at the ledges on the way back (2:00 PM) - we started late (6:30 AM) hoping that the winds will die down a bit. Great route to do this time of year. Has anyone done Lib Ridge recently? Would appreciate some fresh beta.