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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/02/21 in all areas

  1. Variations on a theme. Bladders don’t work well here in the cold, so I hang all these from my shoulder strap and leave them warm in the pack otherwise.
    1 point
  2. A few no-sew dcf stuff sacks using instructions from the video above. I use the .5" double sided dcf tape from ripstopbytheroll.com. I make the reinforcement patches by applying the tape to the fabric and then cutting a patch out and then peeling the last paper strip off the adhesive tape. Then I just apply it like a piece of tenacious tape or whatever tape style patch material. For those of you who don't want to pay for the dyneema stuff and maybe just would like to pick up some light nylon ripstop, 3M makes a double sided tape that bonds to fabrics with a PU (polyurethane) coating as well as dcf. It does not work with SIL coated fabrics. It's called "3M 9485PC". https://www.rshughes.com/p/3M-9485PC-Clear-Transfer-Tape-1-In-Width-X-60-Yd-Length-5-Mil-Thick-Densified-Kraft-Paper-Liner-63477/021200_63477/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-3P0O6g4gIVCMDICh1QwQhTEAYYAyABEgJs__D_BwE&utm_source=rshgs&utm_campaign=021200-63477&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI4-3P0O6g4gIVCMDICh1QwQhTEAYYAyABEgJs__D_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!4414!3!207031288217!!!g!335067319566! If you don' make want to make stuff with these tapes, they still could be used to make repair patches. They would end up being more permanent than tenacious tape or some of the other tapes people use. A bead of seam grip around the edges of any tape patch will prevent peeling and add another level of durability. A few things to note would be that for maximum strength these taped seams need to rest a few days to bond fully. They also destabilize or loose strength in temperature extremes. As far as most stuff sack applications or most repairs are concerned, it's not really an issue.
    1 point
  3. @kmfoerster This is awesome! Thank you for sharing. I think I need to adhere more closely to the KISS principle. I mocked up some cardboard and some card stock into the general shape I wanted, then traced the bottom panel portion from that. It yielded the cutout piece of paper. Definitely worked but a bit more of a process. I also made a little cord organizer for a quicker little project. Do you use a binding attachment? Thanks again, Adam
    1 point
  4. Looks like you hit the nail on the head with what I would also consider a good climbing pack. Heres my most recent 30l climbing pack I made, blending what I like about Cilogear and Alpine Luddites: Very similar and just slightly smaller than a cilogear 30l. Used a different closure system because if the pack has a removable lid, I'm often not using it. Permanent lids tend to work better I think, less flop factor. The body of the pack is made from a newer woven dyneema hybrid (around 45% dyneema). The stuff is bomb proof (and expensive...), got bored trying to wear a hole in a test scrap with 80 grit sandpaper. So far It's been out for one climb and a few ski tours this winter.
    1 point
  5. So, not a mod I made, but mods I requested. Randy Radcliff at Cold Cold World customized an Ozone to meet my specs, all to get a pack as simple and functional as my Serratus Genie worn thread bare by 48 seasons of hard use. Still cost less than similarly sized CiloGear or WildThings packs, the only other packs in contention. Full 201D Dyneema Grid fabric Ice axe and crampon attachment system Side daisy chains for securing pickets, foam pad, trekking poles, or skis Weight: 1 lb., 8 oz. (Roughly, used a bathroom scale)
    1 point
  6. Maybe, probably? I haven't seriously looked into it. Trying to keep a dying forum alive
    1 point
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