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Showing most liked content on 06/05/21 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Trip: Jack - Nohokomeen Headwall Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: Ever since this route has become popular, I've wanted to check it out. Jack is hard to ignore from anywhere, but especially from Ross Lake, where my family and I typically like to camp for a week each August. While I have climbed Jack from the east side, the north side is the show stopper from Ross, with the giant Nohokomeen Glacier dominated the view from the north end of the lake. In the words of @Trent (though he couldn't join @therunningdog @sparverius @kmfoerster and I), "It must be climbed!" And so we did. But it wasn't fast. We spread our effort over three days, with one full day for the summit and associated lounging, and another day on either end for approaching and running away. We waited until the highway was open, so there was none of that uncivilized biking stuff you might have seen on nwhikers. No way! We were, uh, civilized. And very serious- so serious this mountain climbing business. No joking, no laughing, no resting, and certainly no campfire or whiskey... It was all business and very professional. That's how we roll. Gear Notes: Snowshoes were handy for portions....ice axe, light 2nd tool, aluminum crampons, helmet, light glacier gear. We soloed the headwall up and down Approach Notes: East Bank trail and then up by May Creek. East bank trail is mostly cut out, only one log to hop over. Light brush and pretty straightforward travel and routefinding up the hill, based on where it looks best on the map. Nohokomeen Headwall is to about 50-55 degrees and the summit ridge is exposed.
  2. 1 point
    I agree with the above comments, the section below the false summit is steep and a fall would be bad, so here is a thought. Go late season (August - September) after the snow has melted out. Rather than take the Cascadian Couloir, hike past the turn off and continue east on the Ingalls Creek trail and take a path that climbs the ridge between the Cascade Couloir and Sherpa Basin. The trail is much better than CC. You can cut back west once above the the nasty scree and sand in a decent talus field below the false summit.
  3. 1 point
    yup, folks definitely get killed on that steep snow section below the false summit, and it stays there pretty far into the summer as i recall
  4. 1 point
    I agree with the comments above. I've also only descended the Cascadian but recall that there is a section below the false summit that is quite steep, exposed, and wil likely be snow covered for a while. Travel on snow can definitely be faster than on talus or scree, but steep snow can be very hazardous if you don't know what you're doing. You need to be solid moving over snow that can be anywhere from mush to firm to solid ice. You should also be proficient at using an ax to self arrest on soft snow and know when and how to use a rope when self arrest won't be possible. Just because other people solo steep snow doesn't mean you should blindly do so. All that said, if you're going to get out into the mountains of Washington you're going to encounter a lot of snow, so becoming proficient at dealing with it will serve you well far beyond an ascent of Stuart.
  5. 1 point
    Every outing, rain or shine, is an opportunity to learn about climbing and yourself. Keep at it! I love the youthful energy. Something this site has lacked for a while. Keep bringing the stoke, dude!
  6. 1 point
    The top will have some steep snow below the false summit to contend with in June and some punchy snow wherever it is thin. I've used the Cascadian a few times over the years, always to descend, and always mostly snow-free. It is pretty fine without snow, but I'm not picky. Each season will have its own challenges, but I think the major deciding factor should be how comfortable your group is on steep snow that could be icy. Are you ALL good with crampons and axe?
  7. 1 point
    reckon you just have to pick which part of the hike will potentially suck, the middle or the top - there's no time like the present though
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