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Trip: Sloan Peak - FA: Superalpine (WI3-4, 1000') Trip Date: 02/28/2020 Trip Report: On February 28th, 2020, @PorterM and I made what we believe to be the first winter ascent of the West Face of Sloan Peak. We climbed an incredible line approximately 1000 ft long of WI3-4 and steep snow climbing before our route joined the final 600 ft of snowfields to the summit. On the very final ice step, I suffered a short fall on rotten ice and a heinous top out and broke a few bones in the right side of my face. We bailed down the route and skied out. So technically, I guess we didn't finish the route, so say what you want about it. Our route started with a WI4ish pitch followed by hundreds of feet of stellar WI3 rambly flows in a gully just to the climber's right of the true west ridge spur on Sloan Peak. In our eyes, this was the only way up the true west face under WI4+/5. The whole face is loaded with huge free hanging daggers and wild lines. A competent WI6/M6 climber in the right conditions could send some absolute world class lines up there. I shared a lot more details, reflections on the accident, and route beta on my blog: https://climberkyle.com/2020/02/28/fa-sloan-peak-superalpine-wi3-4-1000/. Hopefully some others can get up there and finish this magnificent climb or poach some of the other unclimbed lines. Our route. up to where I fell. We were about to join the corckscrew route and head out. We climbed the gully on the right side of the photo. First pitch crux. Moving into the wonderful ice gully. Porter leading on that fat, fun, rambly WI3. The climbing in the gully was generally easy, sustained, and super fun! Incredible flows on the west face. Some helpful beta. Gear Notes: Screws, maybe a few small rock pieces and a picket. Approach Notes: Skin/hike forest service road 4096, then meander up Bedal Creek to the base of the west face.

Super job! Doesn't matter if you summitted, only that you accurately report what you did and have fun with it all!

Trip: Lost Marbles Couloir - Hidden Lake Peaks Area - Lost Marbles Couloir Trip Date: 03/01/2020 Trip Report: Tim did a nice write up on TAY, for our ski descent and boot-up of the Lost Marbles Couloir. Link To Report Here Does anyone know if this is a commonly done trip? It seemed too good for the almost total lack of information online. I'm mostly posting here because I love Cascadeclimbers and don't want it to fade into oblivion. BTW that's what will happen to your trip report if you post it on Facebook. No one will ever hear about how awesome you are, nor will others benefit from your beta in years to come. Gear Notes: Skis Approach Notes: Hidden Lake Trail route to around 4800'

Don't take children across the border without their mother in the car with you. It will not go well.

not related to roof rack but some general advice for border crossing coming from an actual border guard I met once 1. always have your hands present at border. I usually keep on hand on steering wheel and other hand on window/door casually. Hiding hands is sign of hiding something else. 2.always look at border agent eyes. avoiding eye contact is another give away of hiding something. 3. just tell the truth. they look for facial signs of lies. you can not act your way out of these tells. 4. be somewhat tidy but not too tidy with gear. Look "normal". this may be your stopping point with diy roof rack but if the rest of the points followed, maybe not a real issue. 5. don't be a jack ass or Funny. duh.

Go for it and have a plan B. I have been a dirt bag climber and skier for decades, and happen to drive a Accent as well, the hatchback. Strap the skies to the roof but be sure they are in a ski bag to protect from road salt and go for it. I have no record, short hair and in my 60s. I still sleep in the car and ALWAYS wonder what new adventures will come my way crossing the border. There is no reason I can figure out why I have this issue but I always assume that I will get searched, take no chances with anything "illegal" in the car. Have enough cash/credit cards to make it look like you can afford your visit, and have a specific destination in mind, even a specific accommodation you may stay at even though you have no intention of staying there. Based on my past history I always carry my passport when I travel, think you need that for Canada anyway. Keep your beard, keep your mouth shut, and follow their directions - no humor for sure. To be honest I have more issues returning to the states than leaving.