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Showing most liked content since 02/19/20 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Trip: Mount Shuksan - White Salmon Gl. Trip Date: 02/20/2020 Trip Report: The paper says we are 7 inches ahead for rainfall right now in the Skagit Valley. Probably why last week I did everything I could to break free of work and get out in the sun, high on Mount Shuksan. I have to thank @dberdinka for organizing the hooky and @Trent for sharing in the enthusiasm. We weren't alone in our thinking- a few dozen others were seen out on the White Salmon, and even when we were descending after a run over by the North Face, more were coming. Even the (in)famous Jason Hummel was out showing pro Cody Townsend around the mountain. It was quite a day to soak up some rays and earn a few turns, so I can't blame anyone for joining in the fun. I hope you were out somewhere too..... Gear Notes: two sticks for the up, one or two for the down Approach Notes: I would drop thru the clear cut to the creek rather than try and stay high. Not bad turns to the valley bottom.
  2. 2 points
    Trip: Guye Peak - South Gully Trip Date: 02/20/2020 Trip Report: I climbed the south gully of Guye Peak this thursday, the first half of the route was in good conditions up to a steep rock wall covered with soft snow, I turned to the right out of the gully and climbed straight up in a lot of powder snow for the rest of the climb. Snowshoes highly recommended for the approach. Gear Notes: 2 ice axes Approach Notes: Snowshoes
  3. 2 points
    Trip: Mt Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation 0 Trip Date: 02/18/2020 Trip Report: Climbed a variation to the left of the regular DKHW left ("Variation 1" in Mullee) route on Monday along with CC members Nolan E Arson and kadyakerbob. I'm quite sure this wasn't a FA as it's an obvious line on a popular aspect of the mountain, but as far as I know there are no documented ascents of the route. Makes sense to refer to it as variation 0 following the Mullee numbering. The beginning of the route is currently a mix of exposed rock/rime. It turned out to be a lot steeper than it looked from the bottom. The rime takes good sticks but there are some surprisingly delicate, balance-y moves to move through the rock patches. Above the exposed rocks there's a flat-ish area where it looks like the gully splits into right and left options. The right option (more visible from the crater) didn't really look passable to me but the left had a nice, short, near-vertical step on solid rime. Above this we came out to a small clearing from which we could see climbers on the Hogsback. We went right and followed the narrow, snow filled gullies to where they meet up with the regular DKHW left variation (above the crux). Random Notes: The challenging climbing is all at the bottom of the route (the visible rock and the rime step above it). I don't think the upper portion could get significantly steeper than it is now, though it would be a lot more fun if it had ice instead of deep snow. In current conditions it seems unprotectable. You can put screws in the rime (and maybe rap on them) but there's no way they would hold any kind of fall. If legitimate ice ever forms on the route it would be great, and probably superior to variation 1, as it's longer, steeper, and more sustained. I will definitely check this route again once I know that there is fat ice on variation 1. I'd give the route the typical, meaningless AI3 rating. Right now it's noticeably harder than anything I've encountered on variation 1. The line we took: Some very steep snow in the entrance gully: Short rime fin below the rocks: Bottom part of rocky section: Top part of rocky section: Going left over the rime step: Wide-angle shot of above the rime step. Follow the narrow gully right. Typical deep snow in the gullies: Looking down from where the route joins variation 1. Variation 1 crux is just below and to the left of the central rime mushrooms, we emerged on the right. Gear Notes: Rope, screws, draws, etc., were all good training weight, useless on route. Approach Notes: When I walk it it's deep powder, when I ski it it's chickenheads.
  4. 1 point
    Trip: Stevens Pass - Yodelin Trip Date: 02/17/2020 Trip Report: Just trying to get the *freshie zone* awake again... had a great time out on Yodelin Monday morning and afternoon. 7-12 inches fresh snow over a crust, deeper up high, deep right-side-up drifts of snow in the trees. Excellent skiing. Wishing I could go out and enjoy more before the sun gets to it this week. Let’s hear some more reports! What are you all finding out there? Gear Notes: AT skis Approach Notes: Parking lot was surprisingly only host to a dozen or so vehicles on a holiday? Follow the road cuts up to rolling tree and glade skiing. Steeper terrain but denser trees available to the NE.
  5. 1 point
    Yahoo! My friend Deb and I were out there, too, I'm sure we chatted at some point. It was a stupendous day! Face shot after face shot!
  6. 1 point
    Yeah, a similar sort of stupidity is going on in Skagit County right now. Again related to liability, kicked off by a death in the local SAR community several years ago. It may well result in the death of the local MRA unit which has been serving Skagit County since 1962. Time will tell. Whatcom county Sheriff's office has a much better relationship with BMRU, but they also haven't had a SAR death recently.
  7. 1 point
    Approaching strobach will always be a bit of an ordeal, but if you hew closely to the attached .gpx there is almost zero bushwhacking or blowdowns. It follows the route we flagged a few years ago (2015?). I think the main key is that if you go directly from the road to mother lode, you encounter a ton of blowdown, but this gpx track swings to the right, generally onto a berm/ridge on the climbers left edge of a large boulder field, and provides much easier travel. I was in there in early January this year, and was surprised that almost all of the flagging was still there. It's not that much help if there's any snow on the trees/bushes, since you can't see most of it until you're right on top of it, but you're never more than twenty meters or so from a piece of orange so you can use it to verify that you're on the right track. strobach.gpx
  8. 1 point
    The Basic Mountaineering Course is being offered by the Skagit Alpine Club this year between April 8th and June 7th. The objective of the course is to introduce you to the mountains and teach the basics of climbing in the alpine environment. The entire course is run by volunteer members of the club The course is designed to teach the fundamentals of climbing in the alpine environment and provide you the skills necessary to safely travel and camp on snow and glaciers. The course not only introduces the fundamentals of climbing, but also provides an environment and opportunity for team building, trip planning, and building trust with climbing partners. The course consists of several weeks of classroom sessions and field outings. Classroom sessions will be on Wednesday evenings from 6:00 - 9:00 PM. The location of the classes is typically within the city of Burlington. The classroom sessions are accompanied by weekend outings to practice skills. Destinations for weekend outings are not predetermined and will be based on weather, road, and other conditions. The course is set to begin April 8th with the last outing being June 6-7th. The minimum requirements for registering for the Basic Mountaineering Course are: · Must 18 years and older · In good physical conditioning · Available to attend all the classes and outings To sign up for the course, go to the REGISTRATION PAGE. Options for the registration fee are provided once the registration form is submitted. For more information, visit the SAC website
  9. 1 point
    Trip: Chair Peak, WA - NE Buttress winter Date: 1/14/2017 Trip Report: We used the beta for the Chair Peak NE Buttress route from RobUSA of RocknRopeNW There were at least 4 teams attempting the route yesterday including us. Since the beta is already good, I'll focus on the conditions. Timing: Left the car at 5:40, arrived at the base of the climb at 8:00, summited at 14:20, started the rappel at 15:40 and back at the car at 16:45. P1: The S gulley has decent snow, little ice and some exposed rock steps. There is a slung horn about half way through. Built an anchor in the trees. P2: Snow conditions were really bad, a 1" crust of ice over 2-3 feet of super dry powder. We were postholing and breaking chunks of crust that would fall down P1. This probably discouraged the other teams from attempting P1. Anchor was a slung lone tree. P3: Same bad snow conditions, minimal opportunities for pro. We built the anchor at the bottom left of the ice step with 2 cams and an ice screw. P4: The ice step was in good condition, thick and solid. We climbed it from the right side. Afterwards, the snow slope was solid for kick stepping. I built an anchor when I ran out of rope with a picket and pitons just 10ft short of the next trees... This anchor is consistently hard to find and build for many parties. P5: The snow became crusty again. Belayed from the the other side of the ridge just before the small summit block. We saw faint footsteps near the summit but none on the route. We descended a gully on the SW side of Chair before going back up East to the rappel notch. The west side was receiving a lot of sun turning the snow to slush. Single 60m rappel from the notch brought us to a manageable steep slope. We saw many rap stations during the rappel. The anchor is three rusted pitons that sounded fine and we backed it up with a .75 cam. We walked back to our stashed skis and skied all the way to the car. [video:youtube] Detailed GPS: http://caltopo.com/m/5528 Gear Notes: Cams to .3 to 1, .75 used to back up the rappel Thin pitons Small nuts 2 Pickets 10 alpine draws 5 ice screws (10cm to 21cm) 1 ice tool and 1 hybrid tool (BD venom) Tat, knife, quicklink... 70m rope and 60m tag line for the rappel. Approach Notes: Started at the upper Alpental lot with AT gear. Followed the climbers left side of the Source lake drainage. Booted up the second half of the Chair peak basin to the start of the climb.
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